Wow, those look great! It makes me feel guilty for not cleaning/painting my springs. Well, I guess they're coming off again soon enough. Nice work.

 

Great project! I just got an '96 from an estate: no rust, but no run either. Your page scares me, what have I done?
All I have are questions, but as for restoration and sheer guts, you are The Man.

 

Sorry, that's an '86, not a '96.

 

Thanks. Its coming along nicely. Cant wait to get it running. Post some shots of your ride!

 

An Update - The final drive has slowed me down more than a little. Just a guy in a garage, no sandblaster, no dip tank - it is a WAR to get this thing cleaned up. I have tried different variations on all types of cleaners. Used the power washer - over and over again. No joy. You need a wire brush, a case of brake cleaner, and time. That works. It is just slow work. Finally broke it all down, and I am systematically working through it. The center section is back together. New side bearings and seals. The main bearings all appear to be intact and stout. All gears intact. No teeth missing, smooth action, and tight. I have U-joints, bearings, seals galore on order to work through all the consumables. In general, it is a nasty pig - but tough, intact, and just needs seals. I have not come across a failed bearing yet. Just trashed seals. Still looking though, and I will run them all out before I call it good and hang it again. A few different additional shots in the album.

 

The "Chunk" is back together with fresh new oil, and so far - no leaks. New rotors, Rebuilt Calipers, with fresh pads. (Some of the more versed in this may realize I put the rotors on the wrong way... this was corrected.) I am working on the parking brake assy now, and soon will have the bearings I am waiting for to get the hubs back together.

 

I love your passion for detail's.

It will be better than new when you're done.

 

I had my buddy come over, and we wrestled the final drive back into position. The final bill - New driveshaft seals, New U-Joints, New swing arm bushes and seals (Bearings were good...), cleaned an relubed both hubs (Bearings were good...), New mounts, New brake pads and park pads, New calipers, New rotors, and one "Remote" bleeder kit installed. Plus everything cleaned and painted - which I promptly scuffed all up getting back into the frame. Everything is greased and serviced. The only thing left are to bleed the brakes - at least for the final drive.

Next - Driveshaft.

 

Forgot - New BOGE shocks, cleaned and painted the springs, and new bushes for both trailing arms with a coat of silver POR-15. Do not want them rusting out..

 

Lookin' good

Cheers
DD

 

Very nice job, Ahabiam! This gives me great motivation as I just tore apart my IRS yesterday about to undertake its complete overhaul. Like yours, mine has sat for many years and needs a complete freshening. It must feel great to have it all back together!

 

Ugh. When you mentioned water ion the sump, my mind jumped to a conclusion. Unfortunately, it is the same one Doug posted. he beat me to it. Were it mine, I'd not waste any more effort messing with that lump.

A known good used engine seems like a good bet. But, that leaves the transmission as an unknown. It would be a shame to find it a dud or on the way there after you hook up everything and drive the car. A clue would be in the bottom of the sump and the condition of the ATF. Metal flakes and dirty brown that stinks is the worst of omens. A bit of worn band silt is normal.

Oh, treat the leather on the seats with leatherique or similar. The dry leather can crack easily, but might still be OK if treated. Just sit quickly in an old dry seat and it will split easily. Don't ask!!

A nice looking car and VDP to boot, well worth saving. Mine is a based model, but I sure am glad I saved it. I took a different course, though!! 94 Cadillac LT! and fourspeed OD auto box. A great combo. I call it English elegance with a touch of Italian and American power.

 

It does - feels great. It took forever, but was not really that hard per say. Just big, heavy, and nasty dirty. It looks sweet hanging on its new mounts.

 

I have been watching your posts. When I started this project I knew nothing about Jags. I am learning. You, Doug, and Jose - among many others teach me something new every day. If I had to do it all over again - with what I know now - I would lean heavily towards lumping it out. BUT - for now at least - Dave B hooked me up with an engine, and that it was I will use.

As far as the BW Trans - I already had that to a local guy that works on Jag overhauls. He has treated the Borg to a fresh new trans kit. Cost a pretty penny - but it is ready to go. All rebuilt. Just waiting on me to get to it.

Driveshaft next. New U-joints and center bearing. Then I plan to coat all the undercarriage and drop the front suspension again. I dont like the look of the mounts. THEN - I go to the engine.

 

Still plugging away as I can. The Trans mount vibration dampeners were in bad shape. One side was literally melting. I have never seen that before. I broke that down and replaced them. And threw some paint on. Then I hit the driveshaft support bearing, reinstalled the shaft and supported it until ready for the Trans to go back in. I decided to go ahead and drop the front frame support too. Those forward bushings were trashed and I saw a crack in the aft support. Plus now I can truly attack the cram rails where it mounts and properly clean and POR 15 the area I could not reach when installed.

 

Wow, I saw this answer and thought..This is it!! My problem...I replaced a couple of the 3" fuel lines from the fuel rail...very badly cracked. I DID NOT depressurize the system .OOPS in my 1986 xj6. Now it will start and run but if I take my foot off the gas pedal it stalls. I know I did bad not depressurizing but now how do I fix and start driving it again. Many thanks..

 

Jose,

I'm a new member so forgive me if I am not following the proper procedure. But I saw your answer about depressurizing the fuel system with the ifcs. Now since I did not do that and I replaced a couple of the 3" lines from the fuel rail that were cracked, the car will only run if I keep my foot on the gas pedal. As soon as I take it off, the car stalls. Any suggestions?? It's a 1986 xj6. many thanks scott

 

Did you ever get it running?

 

Just a note: The granular activated carbon (GAC) in the canister is reclaimed by heating it in a gas oven to burn off the VOC's - volatile organic carbons - and it does not 'crystalize' the carbon. It is only losing 3-4% of it's capacity with gas oven or kiln regeneration, and only 7 or 8% if using steam. GAC is cheap- you can flush it out of the canister and refill it with new material- it pours like free running granulated sugar. It sells for around $30.00 US for a cubic foot to give you an idea of how little it costs.

 

Not yet, and I stress YET. This is the year. I got sidetracked with various other money robbing issues at home. However, got some parts from the wife for Christmas, and I am running down my "must do now" list at home. At this point, I need to reinstall the front support with the front wheels, springs, etc. I have my new bushings. I am only waiting on a sway bar. I want to upgrade to the next higher assembly, I have read this will increase handling. Once this is back on - I am ready to move on to the engine. I have a fresh water pump, power steering pump, and a few other bits. I want to clean everything, change all the accessories - or rebuild them - get the injectors cleaned - and replace the head gasket. Then we turn the key and see what we got. I hope to have some updates soon..


Thanks for the interest. Ill keep this post updated.