I started to get my 82 XJ6 road worthy, when I first replaced battery, most everything not working. No windows, fuel pump, horns, turn signals, AC fan etc... what a nightmare! I replaced the window relay, front windows started to work but not the back? The 3 thermal fuses one has power the other 2 do not. Is their a second relay? where do the rear windows get power from? same as the front?
The other problem is the fuel pump, I had to run a wire from pump relay to fuel pump (I do not get power through the wiring harness), with bypass wire I get power to fuel pump in start but not in run? Is their a separate power supply or feed from relay in run position? I know about the air flow sensor takes over once started ( I have a chevy 350 F/I motor). but does the air flow fire same pin on pump relay?
I had to replace all the rubber hoses all deteriorated (methanol fuel), fuel pump regulator, and injectors to get it to start but engine dies (no fuel).
So far I got the A/C fan working, horns, and front windows, and wipers
still need turn signals, fuel pump (in run position) rear windows
Thanks in advance for any help

 

Yes, there are two branches to the pump circuit, 'start' and 'run'. One branch, as you've seen, powers up the circuit when the starter is engaged. However, the fuel pump circuit does not allow the pump to run by simply turning the key to 'run' or 'on'.

Remove the air filter cannister and look inside the air flow meter (AFM). You'll see a little flap. Turn the key 'on' and then push the flap open with your finger. You should hear the fuel pump run.

The idea is that, when the engine starts, air will be sucked thru the air flow meter and open the flap...powering up the pump circuit.

If you still have problems post back or read this:

Fuel Pump Circuit Checklist

Cheers
DD

 

The window circuit has two branches but the split is left-right, not front-back. Since both front windows work you have a problem downstream of the relay and circuit breakers. Most likely the switches themselves....the contacts inside often corrode....or the windows are physically stuck.

The switches can be carefully opened up to clean the contacts.

Cheers
DD

 

Quite likely the hazard switch on the column has failed. Common problem. Part number AEU1338. Flip the hazard switch on and off repeatedly and see if it will come to life. If not, start checking where power is coming to, and where it stops. There is a relay in the scuttle with fuses & relays just below & to the left of the column. Start there.

If you have to replace the switch you'll need to lower the column a bit. I think there's some issue with the switch lining up properly as well. Doug & Jose are better prepared to explain that than I am.

I will be replacing my switch some time very soon as well. Best of luck!

 

As to Doug since I have a chevy engine the question on fuel pump when key is in run, does the AFM feed the same relay as ignition in start? And power the same post on silver fuel pump relay?
Since I do not get any power to fuel pump through harness, as I am fixing other issues I am hoping to find where the fuel pump wire connection is, I read here that there is a connection somewhere around the console possibly near radio that could be corroded. Do you know where that connection is?
Also thanks for the info on thermal fuses side to side! With 2 thermal fuses having no power how is it both front windows worked once I replaced the win relay, while only one of the 3 thermal fuses are hot?

And to moronthethrottle for the turn signal schematic looking at the jag factory manual schematic is always a nightmare
would the turn switch also effect the 4 way flasher? Looking for that now I assume the jag has 2 separate relays one for turn signals 1 for 4 way flasher.

 

I'm not 100% sure if I understand the questions but, in any case, the original circuits have probably been changed/disabled as part of the V8 conversion process.


In orignal configuration both the AFM feed and the starter feed power-up the *same* fuel pump relay....via the red diode pack





Not specifically, as I never had occassion to hunt it down! But it's back there somewhere !




I dunno. Any sign of wiring modifications in this area? Or switch connector getting swapped onto the wrong switch? As designed the window relay supplies voltage to two breakers....one for left side windows and sunroof and one for the right side windows.

The third breaker is likely for the central locking system




You need the S57 Wiring Guide!


One flasher for both the turn signals and the 4-way hazard lights.

Supply voltage for the signals come *from* the hazard light switch.

Not sure if a problem the signal switch would cause a problem with the hazard flasher circuit. Have to do some mulling. It seems plausible that it could, though.

Cheers
DD

 

Go to the 'How To' sticky thread at the top of this section. Scroll down to 'Wiring Diagram S57" and download it. It's a very good schematic

Cheers
DD

 

As for the fuel pump you answered what I needed to know, since I am running a wire from relay directly to fuel pump I wanted to be sure both start and run use the same spade connector from relay. So I probably have an issue with the ecm from GM computer. GM cars are supposed to run for 2-3 seconds when key is on, when turning to start the pulse signal from distributor triggers the ecm to run fuel pump.
I still need to find where the connection is for fuel pump in or around console?
As for turn/ flashers; I did find 2 relays near main fuse panel, I noticed one on top of fuse panel was pretty warm, it gets power but doesn't blink. The second one mounted on side of fuse panel was same type plug but a longer rectangular relay, that one doesn't even get power.
As I am getting too old to be lying under dash for long periods and its friggen hot out in garage, I took a few minutes to look at headlights low beams work but no highs, pulled all the fuses cleaned added some dialectic compound then did the same for relay pinched the wire terminals and got the lights to work properly.
I also removed the return fuel line to add a check valve (was not holding pressure and would bleed down real quick). Then I saw the return line was blocked up with same rubber muck that the injectors, rail & regulator were clogged with (dame methanol fuel). With car sitting for over 5 years all the hoses deteriorated. I had replaced all the hoses in trunk, added filters before pump (some rust issues) a large canister filter after pump and just in case their was more crap in line I added another filter just before fuel rail.
Since I just bought new pump, regulator, replaced all the injectors and cleaned fuel rail.
Attached pics
350 TPIS injection 400 HP, junk out of return line, and Sanyo compressor. If curious under console cover is a tune pre-amp have 2 x 1000w Butler tube amps in trunk, more on that to come.

 

I miss-spoke the A.C is a Sanden with March performance serpentine kit

 

I composed a detailed response, but a gremlin ate it!!!


1. Windows: Do the switches for the rear passengers operate the windows. if so, it is a switch issue in the front console. Tools to fix. A small Pozi or Phillips screwdriver and flat blade driver. Two small tins for the little stuff. Remove the cubby lid, prop up the console cover and work out the rear switches, Push he connectors aside to denote left and right. Off to the bench. Push on he hole in the side that accesses the fulcrum. that will free the rocker to be lifted out. Work over a pan. teeny things to lose. Two wiggly brass rails at the bottom. Lift them out and clean them. Same for the brass contact buttons at the bottom. I used the defunct Dremel knock off motor as a handle and one of the teeny brushes. Jaguar style, replace in reverse order. Test to make sure the orientation is right. Up/down and left right!!


There is a huge bundle of wires that went from the engine bay to the boot. The entry is a rubber boot/grommet right under the battery box. If you lift the carpet on the passenger side, it will reveal the harness along the center hump. The fuel pump wire is one of them. Correctly, it connects the relay to the pump. some included the inertia switch and some not. It is safety that one should include the inertia switch!!


Neat car. Interesting upholstery and carriage lines!!!


Carl

 

After bypassing window lock I checked power at thermal fuses got power to all 3 now, possible ground circuit through lock switch was weak
Hitting the side windows still did not move but sunroof did make a noise. Checked battery voltage down to 11.2v. After charging battery, pass rear window started to move ever so slowly. Since I had a loose door handle I took that door panel apart first. All I had avail was wd-40 sprayed everything and is working better.
Next I will take rear drivers door apart and hopefully a little luck that will start to work. any idea where to lube the sunroof is it in the ceiling that binds or motor in truck that needs attention?
2 remaining issues are the turn signals/ 4 ways, and biggest is the fuel pump issue. No power in run and it still bleeds down (installed check valve on return line), probably get another check valve after fuel pump.
Previously I pulled plugs filled cylinders with wd-40 and marvel mystery for a few days, then turned motor over by hand it felt nice. I started to crank motor w/ starter. I changed the oil/filter and replaced plugs cleaned fuel lines replace added extra fuel filter along w/ injectors, and regulator it took some time but she fired up
After I get the doors back together by next week I may take it out in the parking lot to see how she does

 

Weird 'backfeed' things can happen. One fairly common oddity: a blown power antenna fuse that causes the door lights to stay on!

One of the very best things you can do with an old Jag is to spend a full Saturday cleaning every connection and ground point you can put your hands on. Clean all the fuses and fuse clips, too. You'll solve (or pre-emptively eliminate) about 80% of the oft-ballyhooed Lucas electrics horror stories.




You've already got the right idea. Mantra for old Jags: Remove-clean-lubricate-adjust. Often the 'remove' isn't required but you get the idea.

If you remove the rear seat back you'll see where/how the sunroof drive cables attach to the motor. Disconnect the cables (easy) and operate the s/roof by hand. You'll know in a minute if the mechanism is sticking. With the s/roof open you'll be able to get some lubricant onto the slide mechanisms

The motor *might* be weak as well....especially if it has been straining against a stuck mechanism...but a good used motor will be cheap. EZ to replace, if needed.

Cheers
DD