The white wire at the coil "+" comes from the igntion switch and does indeed have branches to power-up some other circuits such as the fuel injection relays and the bank of warning lights, so I think you're OK.

You should not see the radio, wipers, and other "accessory" circuits come to life, though.

Cheers
DD

 

Shabby, that is what my car did when I connected the jumper wire: as if the key is turned on.
I was able to confirm this morning: I left her out all night in the drive; got up and changed out a rotten vacuum hose. When I tried to start her, it did the old crank-hit-die routine, so I connected the jumper wire and it started right up and idled fine. I put it in reverse, backed out, drove a little, and no stalling. Got back, took the wire off, and the stalling returned. I also confirmed: when the wire is taken off during idle, the idle gets a little rougher and slower; reattach the wire and instant improvement. Like Doug suggested: it's got to be either the ballast resistor, the wire to the ignition, or the electrical part of the ignition switch. I learned the electrical part of the ignition switch bolts onto the rear of the lock portion and it can be bought and changed out separately. I am going to trace out the power wire to the ignition and see if I can find anything wrong. I also thought about rigging a small lamp bulb to the wire, so I could see the power intermittently failing to the ignition by the lamp flickering or going out.
Hope this helps!

 

Ok, while I was waiting on the new alternator I looked at every vacuum connection and didn't find any leaks, I did find that my oil pressure idiot light switch has been dripping and that I need new engine mounts..

I re-examined the over run valve, took it out soaked it clean and monkeyed with the spring tension. They are factory set to open at a particular vacuum pressure and by loosening the nut just a bit in theory it should open easier and wider during idle. Afterwards I had to re adjust the idle

Since I was replacing the alternator I changed the O2 sensor just because I had to remove the old one and thought why not..


Yesterday, I never had a stall, 5 people in the car, A/C on and 90* outside.

So it appears to be fixed but not sure exactly how..

 

I never argue with success

Cheers
DD

 

I am having the exact same problem, and have done everything that shabby has done except messing with the throttle plate and cleaning the over-run valve.
is that valve the same as the idle are valve?
is there any other options you could think of?

 

If you have a Ser III 4.2 you don't have an idle air valve per se.

The over-run valve, located in the aluminum casting a few inches forward of the throttle body, opens to bleed vacuum in a high vacuum situation....such as coasting with the throttle closed before coming to a stop. Worth cleaning and adjusting as mentioned.

In the same casting is the the idle speed adjustment screw ...which is the closest you have to an idle air control. It often is heavily gunked.

By all means clean the throttle body and make sure the gap is set to .002"....and make sure the ducting aft of the air flow meter is in good shape and secure.

Cheers
DD

 

By all means clean the throttle body and make sure the gap is set to .002"....and make sure the ducting aft of the air flow meter is in good shape and secure.

How would i measure to make sure it is .002" clearance?
sorry but i am pretty much a novice when it comes to this

 

No apology needed

Just use feeler gauge between the throttle blade and the throttle body, at the 6:00 or 12:00 o'clock position.

Adjustment is by a fiddly, hard to adjust screw that looks like an idle speed adjustment screw on a carburetor.

Clean the throttle body with a cloth and aerosol carb cleaner or similar solvent.

Cheers
DD

 

Big clue. head lights went out and needed to be relit!!! immediate suspect, ground path. But, may or may not be related to run issue. Remove, clean, lube and tighten all grounds. Don't forget the battery and the end on the wing wall. and, definitely not the one under the car from trans to chassis.

Next major clue. Failed alternator not only failed to produce voltage, but shorted the major feed via the big brown wire.

Load at idle is an issue to a lot of engines. AC being the largest. Check general engine health via vacuum guage and compression guage. A dodge is a tad more idle rpm.

Carl