[quote]ORIGINAL: Jose

ok, let's get technical:

that's why you needed to remove the escutcheons or "finisher covers" for the ignition and headlamp switches, so you wouldn't break the hazard switch while removing or reinstalling the upper half of the "nacelle" or "steering column cover" !!


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Nope, that's why you leave the "nacelle" (nice word BTW, quite technical) in place and acess the 1/4" bolt with a wrench. No need to remove 3 seperate things, to get to one tiny bolt.

When my auxillary fan wasn't working correctly due to a break in the wiring, I simply added a switch inside the car so that I could MANUALLY turn it on and off when it was needed. It did pose a bit of inconvience, but it was effective. Very simple to do. Any live power source in the fuse panel will work. A simple toggle switch, and about 4' of wire to the relay was all that was needed.
Less technical, but effective and not time consuming at all.......



David

 

Dayton wire wheels do not use the same factory lug. It's unique to the wire wheels. All the other stuff: tank filters, o-rings, and a/c components we keep in stock.

 

OK, I just ordered a trans filter kit. I knwo what kind of fluid to get, but I dont have the manual with me. Does anyone know how much fluid goes in the trans? Also, does the main fan, behind the radiator connected to the pulleys always supposed to be on. It crossed my mind a few times, but I then assumed it didn't have a fan clutch. Recently i read that they do. Is this true?

Thanks

 

The original trans fluid was Type F, you can use Dexron 3. Should take about 5 quarts with a filter change.

The fan will always turn until the airflow through the radiator is strong enough to slow it down. Hopefully, you will never get to see that.

 

good info! I'm doing the fluid and filter tomorrow. I ordered front and rear rotors a month or two ago on ebay from a company called r1concepts. Since the front pads and rotors were pretty easy to change I did those first. The rotors fit, but just recently i started on the rear brakes and the rotors in fact dont fit. I called r1 and they said they would research it. That means they dont know the answer, and dont want to hassle a return. I just ordered new calipers and rear rotors from a different company, so i hope that works.

My power antenna sometimes works, and sometimes doesnt. I took off the right rear tail light assembly, but all I saw was a cylinder which contained the mast, (aerial), but I have no clu ewhere the motor is. Theres a hose going from the bottom of this "mast container," and some electrical connection towards the top. I just want to try and test the wiring and maybe refurbish the motor.

Thanks

 

The motor is in the trunk.

 

OK, I just did the trans filter kit. I'm pretty confident it is on right.

I just filled the trans with 3 1/2 quarts of trans oil Dexron 3. I then started the car up, shifted the gears around a little, and heard a quick grinding noise for about 1/4 of a second. I assume it is because I only ut in 3 1/2 quarts as ken told me to put in 5. I added another quart making it 4 1/2 quarts and I am letting it sit over night.

The other day I took out my broken hazard switch. I see there are over seven wires, and seven connectors on the switch. Does anyone know the order at which these wires connect? I do see numbers punched in on the hazard switch, but no coding on the wires.

Update: rear brakes done (completing the all around brake job), new brake fluid, greased wheel bearings, all fluids changed except radiator and rear diff fluid. fuel system cleaned out, new changeover switch, and valve checked. Wiper switch fixed, wiper blades and washer fluid is working. New air pump installed, all new belts.

Horn doesnt work, I am going to try to replace the fuse. Cleaned contacts of the fuel level senders behind the tail light assemblies, im pretty sure they work now.

It's almost done!

 

Hazard switch wiring Series III XJ (1980½ - 1992):

Connector #1- Light Green - Blue
Connector #2- Light Green - White
Connector #3- Light Green - Red
Connector #4- Light Green - Green
Connector #5- none
Connector #6- Light Green - Pink
Connector #7- Green
Connector #8- Brown - Orange


Note: the Factory Workshop/Service Manualcontains a wiringerror which has never been corrected. This is a known issue which has been studied and documented. If you wire the Hazard switch according to the Manual, it will not work. That's why it is best to sketch/notate the wire connections at your switch before you disconnect the wires.


The following schematics document the Series III XJ Hazard switch wiring issue...

Jose

 

the attached image shows the Service Workshop Manual wiring schematic for the Hazard switch in the Series 3 XJ cars, 1980½-1992. It does not work.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1235/A73AFC676EE14565AF0EB966E1A8FD5F.jpg[/IMG]

 

this image shows the correct/revised schematicwiring for the Series 3 XJ Hazard switch. This is the one that works.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1235/2B18D6C4F9CE478F95A5E9B4C95AC9E3.jpg[/IMG]

 

I tried connecting it both the correct way and the incorrect way. It fails to flash the blinkers. It worked perfectly fine until i fulled the old switch.

Any ideas?

 

do the turn signals work?

have you checked the Fuse?

have you checked the Flasher Relay is correctly connected to the wiring Plug ?

Has the black plastic cover of the new Emergency Flasher Switch been removed at any point?

compare your E Flasher Relay with the 2nd attachment picture below to make sure you have the correct Flasher Relay in your car.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1235/679AD91B79E0422DA5E07EBD80E8F6F8.jpg[/IMG]


Jose

 

I'm pretty sure I have the correct flasher. It was a Hazard Switch bought used from motorcarsltd for my specific model jag. In my hands I have not taken any of it apart. The turn signals don't work, but sometimes wiring it in funky ways will bring the dash indicator on, or one side blinker will stay illuminated.

I haven't checked the fuse, and I havent checked the relay.

Thanks.

 

The used parts do carry a warranty and this is a high failure item. Eliminate the other components as faulty and, if need be, we will send you another one.

 

thats kind of you! Im going to run some tests now.

thanks everyone

 

yes david, was curious if you know of any way to repair the fuel sending ubit, the little wires on contact board are broken , just a few of them ..

 

[QUOTE=davidboger;41539] need your help david

 

A lot of helpful info on this site,glad I found it! I'm about to negotiate the price on an '86 jag,in beautiful condition though it has a few things to work on.It sat for two months,needs the headboard liner replaced,it makes some noises but I have access to an awesome mechanic.

The owner originally wanted $4,800 then $3,800,then closer to $3K and now says she'll let it go really cheap.I have exactly $825 in the bank.is that fair offer for a down payment? I see people buying these for $800-1,500 . Whats a fair offer to make right away? the $825 I have is cash so hopefully that will win her over.any tips or points I should make to the seller?