I am removing the carriage on my xj6 to replace rotors and do a brake job. Everything was going just fine except one of my radius arms seems to be frozen to the support on the frame. Drivers side just fell off when I removed the bolts and strap...but the passenger side was a different story. Have been soaking it most of the day but still won't budge. I am about to start cutting!! All I had was wd-40...is there better stuff as far as penetrating oil? Is there a trick to breaking this thing loose? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanx!!

 

You need lots of leverage. I've been thru this a few times and found that a 3-4 foot pry bar and a couple heavy grunts does the trick.

The left arm falling away on its own is the exception, not the rule.

Cheers
DD

 

If you load the rear suspension as if the car was sitting on the ground (compress the springs) it will take off the locating stress and the arm socket should simply pop off with a small pry bar. I never found large bar prying or banging on it to be effective because the bushing flexes enough to absorbs the stress. If all else fails you could....

1. leave it in place and simply disconnect the smaller side on lower control arm instead of the body bushing side.

2. Try some heat, will likely melt the bushing and under coating. Not ideal.

3. Do you have a air hammer? Vibrate it until it loosens up.

4. Try a three hook manual jaw puller. (aka gear puller tool)

Good luck.

 

Thanx for the hints! I tried taking the load off...that didn't seem to help. Tried prying at it but as stated...the bushing just flexes. Maybe I just need a longer pry bar and a little more grunting!! I might just take the advice and leave it...and take off the other end.
Thanx again for all the input!!!!

 

You need a lady foot pry bar, just put the hook end in the hole & pull back. It will pop out.

 

Almost anything is a better penetrant than WD 40. WD40 was developed as a desicant. It does that well.

 

PB Blaster is ideal penetrant. Liquid wrench also works well.

 

I prefer KROIL. It might be hard to find locally, but the stuff is amazing. Otherwise, if you want to keep this moving forward - I would pull the other end. It is tricky if you have not done this before. The lower shock mount has to be moved back so you can extract the bolt. And this bolt - one corner is shaved down to allow the head clearance when you pull it out. Hard to explain - you will see it when your looking at it. Nothing special besides missing the corner. When I first saw it - I was concerned it was a certain type, a certain grade - nope. Just missing a section so you can slide it out. Once you pull the end on the final drive - you may be able to move the arm around into different positions to work in that penetrating oil too.

 

Thanks again for all the tips. I will get back at it!! One of them will work I'm sure!! Will pick up some good penetrating oil....got a longer pry bar today. I might grunt at it a little more but not gonna bust any blood vessels in my forehead!! Will work on the opposite end if need be. Appreciate the tip on the bolt Ahabiam....that would have probably raised more questions!!!! Thanx guys!!!!

 

A five foot bar works great. It till takes several heave ho's with a bar that long.

Words of caution:

When that baby lets go, you and the bar are headed for the floor. Jerking the bar that size back quickly can take off a knee cap or worse yet, you'll pull it back into your privates. Make sure you are stance is correct to avoid the recoil.

 

Well, I "Got R Done"!!! Hit it with some PB Blaster and let it soak over night. Hit it with a big bar and she finally broke lose. And I am wound free!!! Looks like the bushing is toast for sure but I was planning on that anyway..Looks like they need to be pressed out and on????..Anyway, It is off and now I can get back to the fun stuff! Hope I have the height needed to slide that unit out from under. Feels a little edgy being under something that size sitting on stilts!!! Thanx again for all the tips. Greatly appreciated!!

 

Check the radius arms for rust as they can rust away from the inside and be a serious safety issue. New ones complete with the two bushes are available on the internet at reasonable prices.

Jaguar Radius Arm: Car Parts | eBay

 

These guys must have read my mind!

Yes! Nny sort of pry bar with a tip narrow enough to get into the hole should work. I remember struggling with one of my radius arms, figuring this out, and getting it almost immediately. It works great!

Forget the WD-40 as a penetrant. It's good for many things but not that. I like PB Blaster.

 

Those bushings on the radius arms I had pressed in at the machine shop. You can buy good quality replacements on line for both front and rear.

 

For future reference, I just did the same job, all that was needed was the open end of a wrench. Find one that is big enough to fit with the curved angle inside the hole on the bushing and I between the car and just roll the wrench up and it will pop it off. Jag specialties has a good tech tip on this job. They used a lady foot and I used a wrench, I am sick of buying tools!

On a side note, a local machine shop here will press the new bushings for about 140. When other places heard what they were from the all said no...good luck!

 

You might feel better with the rear wheels/tires placed under the rocker panels. They're off the car anyway....might as well put them to use. If the car should fall off the jackstands the wheels will keep it from dropping right onto the ground

Just an old habit I got into

Cheers
DD

 

Doug:

And, a very good practice indeed.

I am a belt and suspenders type of guy. I did mess up recently. Could've hurt me. but, I was saved by the Jaguar and the Jeep. The Jeep stopped the jaguar as it rolled off the ramps with an open door. fixed, but the Jag got scars on the leading edge of the door. I am fine. why, cuz, I forgot to place a chock under a rear wheel or both!!!

Kid next door was working on one of his critters. Well, in his fifties, but to me still the kid he was when we moved here!! Rear wheel off for brake work on a little Honda. Tire under the car. OK!!

Miniscule little drum brake parts. I don't think my stiffening fingers could deal with them. And, my brake tools would be much too big!!

Age????

Carl

 

Nowadays I follow the GAMI system for car maintenance.

GAMI ? - Get A Man In !!

 

It is a little spooky!!! I ended up having to raise it even a little higher yet to slide the IRS unit out while on the jack. I had ramps to drive the front on which helped. The back didn't seem so bad as long as the suspension was still under it...but once that was on the ground...geez!! I added a second set of stands...4 total...and then started wedging cut to length 4 x 4's in at the corners. At least I feel a little more secure. I think I will still slide the wheels under it...good tip!!! Be glad when this project is over and it is back on the ground. Until then, I just hope I don't ever hear any loud crashes in the night!!

 

For what it's worth - when I pulled my final drive I used two jack stands under the forward jack mounts and two more on the rear, just in front of the radius arms. It held good and sturdy. A piece of shelf board on the jack pad between the final drive and the jack to lower it out. Then transferred it - more like slid, pushed, cursed, it over on to a movers pallet. Picked it up at Northern tool for under 10 bucks - it has wheels. That allowed me to haul it out solo. Same setup to hang it - but I needed help to get all the mount hardware lined up. It's a heavy pig for sure. Be careful!