I read a few forum and internet posts about the hideous complex task of replacing elements of the HAVC air condition system on the XJ6. Most of the writing was about dealing with the Series 3 with air conditioning systems, coolants and complex relationships between the engine space and the air bender / heater elements. With a Series Two containing just a heater and no gassed coolant I assume the task is simpler. Using the air bender to circulate heat would it matter exactly what produced that heat, i.e. could a more generic modern heater unit be employed to the same effect?

 

The Monster emerges. Easier than expected.

One side.

Other side.

Should this be buckled in such a manner.? I suspect not.

Brand.

The heater element.

the pulley appears to have broken parts. Wires.

This big appears damaged, but not sure what is missing but something clear is.

 

Without knowing for certain it all looks in better order than expect.

I assume the copper pipes to the engine bay mean that the original air conditioning heater was water-powered by hot water from the engine coolant system? I assume that this need not be the case and an electrical-only 12v element could be used if a suitable one could be found.

 

You have successfully Removed the MATRIX! The Magic Box where it all happens!
I'm Impressed! I've tried to removed one of these more than once and failed.

This unit is not controlled by hot water but by vacuum, which itself is controlled by the electrical Servo.
The Servo is a little Rube Goldberg unit, low behind the Right cheek panel, which, with a small motor and an array of cams and vacuum switches controls the operation in a purely mechanical manner.

This last photo is one of the mechanically controlled vacuum switches. The main vacuum comes from the remaining white "T" from the engine, the little funnel thingys with the rods are the actual switching mechanism which is driven by cams in the electrical Servo.

As each cam comes around, it pushes on a rounded nail-like rod at the other side, which opens one of these vacuum switches, which in turn activates vacuum can/diaphragms which operate various flaps. When the cam moves away, a spring closes the valve which shuts off vacuum and the flaps, spring loaded as they are, move back into their default position, usually closed.

From what I can see there is nothing wrong with the vacuum switch.

As you're intent on replacing this whole unit, you probably might not need the Servo either, unless there is another way to control flaps on the replacement unit.
(';')

 

All internal combustion car heaters are coolant powered. A 12v heater is not a viable option.

 

Reason being? not powerful enough?

 

this seems like the most problematic bit, the wires are ping'd

I am presuming this is a temperature sensor or gauge of some type, the tension of the springs indicating to the device the temperature .... or not.?

 

examining the heater core and the condition of the (fins?) bars is actually fairly good. I filled it with hot water and the heat radiated evenly (of course fading from close to the pipe to the 3rd element furtherest from the pipes). No leaks or bleeds I can see.

 

Well yes of course they are. I misunderstood what he was referring to.
(';')

 

Pretty much.

The current draw would require a huge output alternator just for 1st thoughts, and then it got too hard for my grey matter.

That Delanair 2 system is GOOD, reliable (except for those that has been fifddled with), and none of mine have given any real grief.

The amps can be iffy, but replacements were, and still are, out there, and thats about all any of mine have ever needed very early in the ownership, and then never touched again.

 

Correct, plus such heat would not be free, as it would have to be separately generated, coolant heat is.

 

I was replying to Adenshillito, LnR, not your subsequent post.

 

Looks like a fan speed resistor...although the design is a bit different than I'm accustom to seeing

Cheers
DD