XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

AC not cold but compressor clutch working?

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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 06:54 PM
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Default AC not cold but compressor clutch working?

I have been in the advanced search mode here for awhile. I thought I would try my air conditioning and it never got cold. The compressor's clutch is staying engaged. I am no expert on air conditioning but if the clutch stays engaged, it is full of Freon right? I'm a noob on this climate control so hopefully I had it set right. The left dial on 65, right dial on high, and bottom temp slide on cold.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 07:33 PM
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Ah....the wonderful world of refrigeration. It's a great thing to learn. Step 1...get a set of A/C gauges. Your local harbor freight has a set that will suffice for the hobbiest.

Make no assumptions...get a set of gauges so you can act on facts. Dont mess with the high side as a novice. 75% of everything you need to know can be gleaned just from the low pressure side.

Other things to learn about refrigeration...any time you add refrigerant, you need to add oil.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Hafrod
I have been in the advanced search mode here for awhile. I thought I would try my air conditioning and it never got cold. The compressor's clutch is staying engaged. I am no expert on air conditioning but if the clutch stays engaged, it is full of Freon right?

It has enough Freon to prevent the superheat switch (or pressure switch, if fitted) from killing the circuit. Might not have enough to actually refrigerate air.


Cheers
DD
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 09:03 PM
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Also, heater tap may be jammed open, as we know this is common.

Lack of gas is also high on the list, as per Dougs scribe.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 09:46 PM
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Is there a checklist on this? I'm not finding anything
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 04:43 AM
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Probably.

The heater system is basically the tap, it jams (rusts) in the ON position. Look at the tap, easily seen at the rear of the engine bay, and if the arm is DOWN, it is ON. It should rise to the UP position once the engine is running and vacuam is applied. Shove your hand down there and push UP on the arm, it will be STRONG, as it is spring loaded. If it moves, it is NOT stuck, but now make sure it closes when the engine runs and cooling is requested, as in the "65" you have asked for.

The vac system is complex at best.

The a/c side of things, no idea, as it is illegal to touch that stuff down here without a license. The "low gas pressure" switch may not be working, so the compressor runs as you describe, but the gas is too low to do any good.
 

Last edited by Grant Francis; May 1, 2016 at 04:45 AM.
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Old May 1, 2016 | 09:12 AM
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AC operation in these cars has been a mystery to me. I've read up
on it and seem to almost get it, then, it slips away!!!!


On domestic critters, I've used a store bought can and recharged
them and the results were great. frosty cold air.


With 65 selected, and the engine running, CAREFULLY, feel the AC hoses at the fire wall. If the compressor is working and the Freon is adequate, the line should be icy cold.


And, up front on undisturbed cars is a sight guage. A flow should be seen. A few bubbles is tolerated, too many and you will get no cold, low on Freon.


I've a set of HF gauges and a compressor driven vacuum pump from HF.


One of these days, I'll seek to charge my lump's AC. A combination of
GM and Jaguar!!!


Before the 4.2 went bottoms up, it's AC was quirky. Since then, I've learned enough to know it was vacuum related. Oddly, on the day of it's demise, a hot October day, the AC was doing just great....


Carl
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 09:13 AM
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I burned up a compressor once because the Low Pressure switch didn't work.
I didn't even know the air was on (it was a cool fall day) so compressor kept turning until it SEIZED at a stop light (smoking!) and I had to physically unplug the relay.

That cost me a Mint to fix because shards went through the whole system!
(';')
 
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