Maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me, but from that first driver side profile pic it looks like something large and heavy dropped on the top of that car. There's seems to be a flat spot and a bit of roof line pushed oddly out near the windscreen. Also, the sunroof looks slightly open, is that why?

 

Probably an odd reflection from that building. The sunroof looks low in the back, but that can be easily adjusted. Ding on the drivers door though.


To comment on "leaks fore and aft"
There isn't really anything to leak in the back except the brakes and MAYBE the diff, but the diff is rare and the brakes are said to be working. Oil at the rear is likely just the leak from the front blowing underneath the car.

 

Here is what I call a 'rear valance'.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/26298633948...7748120&crdt=0
You can see the holes for the exhaust pipes. It is a fairly easy weld-on replacement if you know how to remove spot welds and are experienced with MIG welder, (or maybe inexperienced, as I replaced mine !!). If it is not holed then best left on the car, but check where it joins the boot floor. I replaced the boot floor as well !!

And here is a quarter panel the fits either side of the rear valance below the 1/4 bumpers.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XJ...%3D&rmvSB=true

The only problem removing these is extracting the screws that hold it on as they go into captive nuts.

I replaced these on my car too. I found I had to repair the rear face of the rear wheel arch as this is a favourite rust point. The 1/4 panels are held here by three screws and there is a rubber seal that holds muck leading to rusting.
Doing the rear main engine oil seal is an engine and gearbox out job, not something for the faint-hearted ! In my case the engine and gearbox had to come out due to block cracking and the need to rebuild the engine around an uncracked block. My block was the earlier non-slotted.

Here is photo of the Slipflex bushes that are the trunnions for the front top wishbone. An easy swap-out normally, but make sure the camber adjustment shims go back correctly. The bottom wishbone trunnions tend to last a very long time, but are awkward to replace so if they are "good enough", I'd leave them awhile.

Here's a radius arm complete, but if it's OK you can rebush, and these are not expensive.
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...dius-arm-p4661

And finally the rear subframe mounts that allow a degree of rotation of the subframe when the car is in motion.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x4-JAGUAR...-/142465056951

 

Those quarter panels that cover the lower fuel tanks have screws that are a bugger to get out, particularly underneath car. Lots of penetrating oil over several days may stop you from chewing up the screw heads and threads, otherwise it's a lot of irritating drilling out, removal of the old bolt thread, retapping etc. I use stainless replacements as I will probably never have to remove them again but I'm really nice to the next car custodian in the future....

stainless screws for xj6 fuel tank covers
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.co...8-p/550000.htm

On the topic of valances, anyone got a good tip on bodyworking tool to massage the exhaust holes back into shape? I still have my exhausts out and it's a good time to tidy that area up but hard to get a dolly behind hole to conform the curved shape back

 

I used stainless button-cap bolts for the quarter panels, I'm against phillips screws and especially flat head screws.
The button-caps use an allen wrench. They are also flatter, look a lot better than the cursed phillips screws.

 

Me as well. Worst of all the slotted screws. then Phillips. Pozi, a tad better Allen heads my present favorite. But, I am becoming enamored with Torx!!!


Carl

 

There's nothing more time consuming than futzing with seized screws...cans of penetrating oil, lots of different screwdriver heads, slow motion destruction of the head followed by dremel cutting a new groove...breaking that off and speaking fluent anglo saxon for 20 seconds before an easy out failure... then drilling it out destroying thread and retapping....

There's something about keeping it all original though when you put it back together, mad as it seems....

 

I would be contacting local Jaguar enthusiasts clubs in towns/cities on the west coast, you may pay a bit more but your chances of finding a maintained car so at least you will have a better base to start with. My theory..

 

Thanks Alyn. I think I'll make an offer on this 1984 tonight and see. It looked fairly good rust wise and mechanically it seemed, OK. The problem with going out to the West Coast is that I can't look at the car. When you add in the cost of getting out there, lodging, extra cost, driving back 2500 miles with possible breakdowns... if I can find a local one that looks fairly good, I think I have to go with that if I can.

Can I ask you...you made a post about one out here and said it was a deal. I looked at the add on CL and the add did not have much info. How did you know it was a good deal? It could have had oil leaks, seized calipers...who knows? Did you know the owner?

 

make sure you take a good flashlight and maybe a mirror, and have a GOOD look underneath preferably aided by a sharp metal pointy thing. Rust around the trailing arms is a deal killer. Also look for excess oil that's blown back onto rear axle from engine. Top side fixes are relatively easy but under (a very heavy) car issues are harder to access and repair...

 

I thoroughly enjoy the TORX screws and bits, the are positive, no slipping, they always grab tight to the driver. And the Full Moon Luck for me this morning? I went to dispose of my trash and someone threw away a toolcase with lots of unused metric and standard sockets and wrenches, AND two sets of TORX bits, some tiny as if for watchmakers.

Including a wrench size I had never seen before: 15/16ths. Bigger than 7/8", smaller than 1", factory marked 15/16ths.

 

looks like they replaced the sunroof seal and the sunroof isn't closing correctly.

The car looks very good, but yes I would inspect underneath, the exhaust system will tell the tale, if the exhaust system is not rusted out, the car has been well cared for and kept from snow and salt. $3 Grand would be a steal. $3,600.00 is what I would offer, cash in pocket, slap the seller in the face with a pack of $100. dollar bills, or act as if you are ready to walk away!! It's a gamble but sometimes it pays off. If the car has not sold already, he is motivated to sell.

1984 was a very good year for Jaguar, thanks to John Egan who took over quality control, so chances are the car will be reliable, mine is.

AND, this is a Vanden Plas, with the nicer interior and select color.

 

Hi Everyone:

Thanks for all the advice. I got it!!! I'm so excited I can't stop going in the garage to look at it. I'll post a longer thread but it's Easter Sunday and I don't have much time today. Hopefully later I can post pictures etc!

 

Jose:


Wow, you must be living "right". A proper reward. You think the PO passed and others tossed his "junk" and the PO selected you as a proper steward for his treasure.


Muttony:


Oh, boy great adventure on the way. Include us.


Side bar. I use my dumb cell phone as a night table clock ! The charger is there as well, Each night, I plug in the charger. Alas, this
morning t was dark, Cell and night!! So, I went back to sleep. SOG,. the charger plug fell off the outlet. Back on charge. Gotta develop a fix for that. the plug fits too loosely. The cords a bit short.


Carl ,

 

Congrats Muttony!

 

Congratulations !!

I had my Series 3 for 14 years !!! Mind you, it did need a bit of work but what doesn't.