No, Iso, I remain a male !! Clumsy fingers, no more , no less.

I've not driven my LT1 powered Jaguar since it had it's hissy fit/ but I have atarted it and let it ru na few times. so far, just fine.

I fin d the LT1 has plenty of suds to pull the 2.88 with alacrity. Even in OD. No incentive to swap rear ratios here.

Carl ..

 

Thanks for the info, Doug. I had not read about the filler cap seals before and will be sure to look at them when it gets in the shop. I'm glad to know about the removeable panel around the tank.

 

She has stayed with me for nearly 46 years, so I don't know if she is wise or just persistent.

 

Thanks for the reassurance Carl, it's probably no surprise that I won't be driving this car in the winter up here-unless the shop catches on fire. I had been wondering about the 2.88 gears, if they look like they are in good condition when I open up the differential, I will definitely try them first.
Dave

 

Hello, all. I have been neck-deep in research and am about ready to take the block, crank and pistons to the machine shop. Luckily, I am timing this at a time when they have contracted to build 4 complete engines and it will take them about 4-6 weeks to get to mine. While I'm waiting I will bring the Jag in the shop and start looking at what I have there. I have found information and opinions about which brake fluid to use and they are spread across the board. I opinions from DOT3, DOT4, DOT5, Girling, Lucas-Girling, and nothing made in America (from Johns Cars). I would be glad to hear any of your opinions.
Thanks
Dave

 

This is why you pluck one from a running car. At this point, no one builds them better than the factory. GM QC was great in the 90's. 4 months from now when you've get a bill 50% more than you expected dont say I didn;t warn ya.

 

Engine/automotive machine shops are getting to be rare. Those remaining are always swamped. I have a pal who has been waiting years to get two engines back.

Cheers
DD

 

In my older Jags I used Dot 3 or 4, whatever brand.

For many years used I used Castrol GT/LMA because that what "everybody said I should use". Plus, Castrol products are sort of a sentimental favorite with many Jag owners. For a long time (maybe still) Jaguar and Castrol were like a hand in a glove.

I think Castrol stopped making the GT/LMA product. In any case, all the local stores in my neck o' the woods stopped carrying 8-10 years ago it so I started using other brands and have never had any problems at all. Whatever name brand is on sale that day works for me.

Many people will say that British rubber and American brake fluids are not compatible. Gotta use Castrol or Girling if you have a British car. I've had no problems with other brands. I think the warnings perhaps had merit decades ago....1940s-50s-60s?......but I've had no problems with USA brake fluid with my modern-ish Jags (1980s-90s vintage) (nor my MGs--1970s). If nothing else, any replacement parts you buy nowadays are not gonna have decades old British formulated rubber.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for the response. I'm the kind of guy that enjoys building engines and vehicles that are reliable and fun to drive with a big dose of performance included. Plucking someone else's worn engine from an unknown wreck or Craigslist rig and hooking it up to the battery and fuel line in my Jag is not what I want to do. As far as the Factory building them best, I would agree if you consider that they build their (our) engines with their budget squeezed as much as possible while betting the engine will last 5000 miles more than the warrantee period. After all, 10 cents saved somewhere in the design or build process times 10,000,000 units is real money. And that's just one item in a total car. I, on the other hand, can spend a couple of hours blue-printing a new oil pump and matching up the rear main cap cavity to the pump discharge hole-look at one sometime, they are mismatched. I can use an oil pump drive shaft with a steel collar instead of the plastic one the factory uses. I can specify bearing clearances and piston clearances that reflect the type of oil I will use, the type of driving I will do, the temperature I plan to run and my past experience. I can't get that from a junk yard engine, unless I go though it completely, just as I am doing. I have always had the philosophy that if you commit to doing something, you should do it well.

 

I'm glad to hear your opinion Doug, all the warnings against using anything but Castrol/Girling didn't actually explain why. And as you point out, by the time I've replaced virtually all the soft parts in the brake system I will have an American brake system.

 

Boy, ain't that the truth. When I was hot-rodding back in the '70's and '80's there were 4 good automotive machine shops in Anchorage. Now there is 1. It is a very good, state of the art shop, but it is the only one. Recycle yards don't keep older engines or parts any more either. When I was looking for an engine for another potential project, the early 2000's LS (gen lll & lV) style was all I could find. They are a superior engine, but are harder to swap.
Good talking to you
Dave

 

I get your point though... but all that applies to SBC from the 70's and 80's. By the 90 especially with the LT1 most of those issues were long gone. Many SBC guys including myself use all the Vortec / LT1 stuff they can because it's just better. Starters, heads, block, lifters, valve covers, all better than most of the "performance" after market stuff.

This story reminds me of the premium roller bearing cam button I once used on a engine project. Soon after installation I found in in pieces in the oil pan. The far cheaper simple nylon one that replaced it has lasted through 2 blocks and 3 cam changes.

I maintain, unless you've done it hundred of times, you probably cant do better than the factory and this is especially true with the LT1. Whether or not that ends up mattering in the real world... who knows. Enjoy the journey.

 

I agree that many things have improved in factory engines and are continuing to improve, but my son is a GM mechanic at a local dealership and he tells me of the most unbelievable problems and failures on new vehicles, and not just the engines. Your point is well taken on the LT1, it is regarded as a good engine in everything I've read.

 

Hi folks, I thought I would give another status report on the XJ6/LT1 project. The engine has been at the machine shop for about a month now and will probably stay there for another couple of weeks. No problem, I don't have any place to put it together right now.
The car is in the shop now and I've been dismantling like crazy for close to a month. For those of you who can still do this stuff for 8hrs a day and go out dancing at night, that's 4.5 days. My attack plan is to rebuild the suspension, brakes, look at the gas tanks, drop the cover on the differential to see if I'm lucky, and replace the undercoating. Then move up to the electrical and interior, then remove the front and rear windshields and all trim, fix rust spots, and then fit the engine. Buff-out will be last. I don't have much room for storing removed parts, so I am doing one wheel area at a time. The engine compartment has been prepped to a degree and I will finish it and paint it body color after the front suspension is done. After that, it's off to the rear end. I've included a few pictures to show what great condition and preservation the body has. I do believe I will be able to do everything that needs to be done, myself. At first, I was sure I would have to haul it to a body shop for new paint and a little surface rust, but I'm going to find my "big boy pants" and fix the rust and buff-out the paint. I'm looking for a nice daily driver finish not a show car look.
I do have a request/question for anyone who would like to respond: in one of the pictures I tried to show a good picture of the motor mounts. They came with the car, as well as the trans mount, but no isolators or instructions. I'm sure they are from one of the Conversion specialists and I have sent a photo of everything that I got to both JS and JC. The speedo interface, tach interface and VATS module are still in plastic bags with the JS name and address. Sanderson headers, 1" front sway bar, 7-wire chassis pigtail and a couple of other things were included. Neither Conversion company was helpful because I wasn't a previous customer. My only question is what isolator would you think I would need. The stock Impala mounts were housed safety type and clearly won't work. Early big-block mounts look good, but there are two versions; short/wide and tall/narrow, or something like that. If the mounts were designed to use an isolator from another brand vehicle, it could take me awhile to find it. Any help would be appreciated.
That's about all I have for now. I included a picture that shows the spring compressor I made based on what I saw on top of the cross member and other peoples experiences. Works slicker 'n grease on a door knob.
Enjoy the pictures and I'll keep you posted.

Dave

 

Motor mount.. Application is C3 Corvette. The answer to your question is in this video. I mention the part number.

I've made that spring compressor it will work but I like the 4 threaded rod method. Its easier to get the spring pan back in the right place with the 4 rods and safer. I've used the 4 threaded rod method with DB7 GT springs and there was no drama.

Vats module is fine but it can be eliminated by reprogramming the PCM for 1994/1995 only. I like simple so I do away with it. PM me if you'd like more info on how to get this done.

 

I have tried the Sanderson headers for SBC/Jaguars twice.... both times they cracked all around the header flanges.. Now use Ram Horns.. no problem, quieter and much cheaper.

My '72 XJ had a LT1 that I had to replace the Optispark several times before getting one that actually worked.. even new GM ones are prone to failure. That is the worst thing about using the LT1 engine with the front mounted distributor.

 

IF your engine is tuned right and you have sufficient exhaust system flow....the headers wont get hot and crack. I tuned with a WB02 and it took a year for my auto parts store header paint to burn off. They still look decent 2 years later after a track day and many many passes down the drag strip. You need the right fuel mixture and sufficient timing. Also helps to hang the exhaust correctly in the middle so the full weight of the system isn't on the headers.

There are many many junk Optispark units out there. The high priced Accel unit is junk, the low priced one from Advance Auto parts has work well for me in the past.

 

Thanks very much, icsamerica, that is just what I was hoping someone would know. I'm glad to hear about using the 4 rod method. I had read about people using that method and if I have problems keeping the pan straight on the install I will try that. Is that you in the video?
Your suggestion on eliminating the VAT sounds the simplest and I'm in favor of that too. Thanks for the PM invite.

Dave

 

I read one of your posts back in 2015 to JAGMARE where you gave him the same opinion. I was leaning toward the rams horns because I would like to keep the stock A.I.R. system as well as the EGR. It will take some research to find a pair up here though.
The Optispark does seems like the weak spot with the engine from everything I've read. I opted for a new Accel Optispark II from Summit and am going to thread the weep-hole in the water pump for a small nipple and hose that I can run to the side and away from the distributor. I also want to see if some sort of small shield over the top of the distributor is possible when I get back on engine assembly. Beyond that, big mud puddles are on my "do not" list. I appreciate the info.

Dave

 

Boy, I didn't want to hear an opinion like that on the Accel unit. It's already bought and paid for, so I'll just have to give it a try. The MSD unit was too rich for my blood! Thanks for your opinion.

Dave