As part of my cleanup of the right hand side of the engine on my series III, I tested if the air valve got 12 volts and I measured just 10.6 volts. Not sure if I should look into harness troubles or not.

Also, the resistance across the terminals of the valve was 20.2 ohms and not the recommended 33 ohms. Should I replace the value or just stick with what I have? I was under the impression the water jacket is what heated up the valve and not an electric coil.

Thanks,

 

Both systems heat this valve.

The electrical section begins the closing of the valve sooner than the heat from the coolant, thus lowering the idle sooner, and maybe assisting emissions etc, dunno.

The 10.6v is a tad low, and may be the supply relay with dirty contacts, or any myriad of items.

The ohms are close enough for my car.

As long as the plate slides inside to close the port, it is deemed OK, and that would be the test I would be undertaking. The timing of the closing etc is fairly non important to a large degree, as long as it closes is the important issue.