If I remember correctly, yes it would be those four bolts you have numbered, and then each tensioner has two bolts lower down inside the timing cover. There is only just enough clearance to slide the tensioner bolts to the front sufficiently for the tensioners to be released and pulled upwards.

I think you will find that if you want to remove the tiing chain cover, you will also need to take off the sump. And that means dropping out the subframe, or removing the engine from the car. Hence why I persevered with the fiddly process of replacing the tensioners with the timing cover still in place.

Have you checked the condition of your head studs yet? I see from the pictures that you removed some of them. If you have the (common) problem of corroded studs where they pass through the water jacket, you will need to replace them. If any shear off, you'll be looking at taking the engine out to deal with the stumps, so that might influence your decision on the chain tensioner work too. Looks like you got 7 of the long studs out, so perhaps they are all in good condition? Or at least coming out without a fight. If so, you could be in a good position.

 

Man! This is getting to be a BIG BIG job! I tried everything you said to try and get the chain guides off to no avail. I have now removed all the timing chain cover plate nuts and bolts to see if I can remove the timing cover plate without pulling engine, pulling pan, etc. I think if I can remove the damper pulley to allow access to the four studs going from the lower cover plate through the oil pan, then I can remove those studs using the double nut method. This assumes I can get the damper pulley out - BIG ASK! That will allow me to be able to replace ALL the guide plates (four of them) and the front seal. Anyone every done that?? I base my thoughts on the following video from minute 14:00 on:
Also, to answer your question about studs - yes got them all out without any problems, and will replace the 10 that go into the water jacket with new. And clean up the four that don't. Somebody has been into this engine before, so it's making it a bit easier for me now.

David - I've attached a pic of the water pump showing the impeller. Is this the new style? Can you tell from the pic?

 

If you've got some time, I thought these were really interesting:Episode One




Episode Two




Episode Three




Episode Four




Episode Five




Episode Six




Episode Seven




Episode Eight




Episode Nine




Episode Ten

 

"David - I've attached a pic of the water pump showing the impeller. Is this the new style? Can you tell from the pic?"

Bill
Pump looks to be newer and in good condition, if no bearing wobble, should be ok.

Yes, I did pull dampener et al. to put on a new front seal. Before you loosen the timing pointer from the timing case, make a mark on dampener, as the pointer on reinstallation has a lot of slop for adjustment.

When I took timing cover off, I removed 4 studs into sump (used vise grips and matched the studs at local auto store... cleaned holes with brake cleaner added Loctite to studs after timing cover back in place), put it back together only using the front part of a sump gasket with more than normal sealant (cut off excess when finished) Cleaned the exposed sump area very well with brake cleaner before putting in the new section of sump seal)... I can’t find link, there was even a sketch, but from memory, I notched (removed) the inside seal lip of the timing cover with a rotary file in a dermal tool for the first 5/8 in from bottom on each side to make it easier to install timing cover on new seal. Also filed (cover everything so you don’t get filings in sump) a smooth small angle to the first 3rd of the bottom of two alignment dowels to assist reinstallation. I put bottom of timing cover in place first (over seal) and rock it toward the block while tamping down the timing case with soft rubber mallet.

This should be the last time you will be in this area of the engine. But, you will sleep well knowing that the lower guides are good and not down to bare metal.

Rgds
David

 

I knew there was more than one way to skin a cat! Get it? Skin a cat! Anyway, I'm glad I'm not pioneering a new way. It just made sense. I'm really happy to have your guidance on this. I now feel I have a path and a plan. Thank you. This Forum is just unbelievable.

 

I wonder if this is the very reason so many of these cars were converted to Chevy V8s?
Most Mercan mechanics are far too impatient to put up with this. Not to mention customers not wanting to pay the Hours involved.
(';')

 

Anybody have any experience to recommend whether I need an 8" or 10" valve compression tool?

Thanks, Bill

 

Elinor:

The SBC has a similar front cover to oil sump terminus issue. but, as both are tine, a snip here and there and the front cover can be removed and the sump left undisturbed.

Pulling the dampener on an old Chev 6 can drive one nuts... been there...

OTH, pulling the front cover to replace the cam gear on my 41 Studebaker Champion was a relative snap

I pulled the dampener on my LT1 to replace the Optilite. With a puller, t came off cleanly. No key way, just friction to keep it in place!!!

 

Bill

When fully open I have 4" between point and adapter, no indication of any other dimensions. Can't remember if I bought the adaptor (miller 6885) or it came with the craftsman compressor tool.

Rgds
David

 

Without a doubt.

I remember wayyyyy back when an XJ6 engine overhaul or replacement was $5000 all-in but (early style) conversions were $2000 all-in. With a V12 the difference was even more dramatic.

Nowadays most conversions are much more sophisticated and sanitary so the difference might not be quite so much....at least for a 6-cylinder car.

Cheers
DD

 

Now finally looking at the head and I see lots of oily sludge in all the intake ports. My compressions always been 135ish. I don't have any pollution controls. They've all been removed. Any ideas?

 

Bill,
With some ring blow-by, out the front breather into your intake manifold? This is what I would suspect to see after many years in service. Others may have other options as to how this can develop. I put an 1 qt. oil catch can on my XKE in the breather plumbing, as the blow-by was fouling the carbs. (Less than $30)
Rgds
David

 

David - I really like that idea of dumping the blow-by into a canister. I assume you mean the output from the top of the breather tube on the timing chain cover? And dumping one of the three outputs of that tube into a canister? Two of those outlets go into the two carbs and one is blocked off. Or making a single tube to go into a canister to look less Rube Goldberg?

My only concern is that the carburetors are currently jetted for sucking in this blow-by. I assume blocking them off means now ALL of the intake is going to be through the opening throat of the two carbs, and is that going to affect air/fuel mixture ratio?

 

Loose valve guides. Intake sucks in oil from the cam chamber. Once common in old Chev 6 bangers...

Catch cans for blow by. We used to call them snot buckets...

Or with one way vlaves, dump the blow by into the exhaust header and it gets burned.

Carl

 

Yeah, once I get the valves out I will make a determination as to whether some need replacing or not. And I'll consider knurling the valve guides if that's done anymore at a machine shop.

 

No, it was a poor practice. The wear surface is 'raised" just a teeny bit by the knurl. Quickly wears away, back to where you were, but poorer, and the machinist, richer..

Gad, at one time dirty machine works knurled piston skirts. Ugh...

Carl

 

There should be inlet valve guide seals; there were on my 4.2 engine I rebuilt on my 1980 XJ6. When these seals wear out or go hard, it a straigh pass into the combustion chamber for the oil above !

 

"My only concern is that the carburetors are currently jetted for sucking in this blow-by. I assume blocking them off means now ALL of the intake is going to be through the opening throat of the two carbs, and is that going to affect air/fuel mixture ratio?"

Bill
The canister is really an air oil separator, the plumbing stays the same, as all the fumes still go to the back into the engine combustion cycle.... so you will not be accused of melting the "Greenland Ice Cap". Most of the oil is separated out of the breather fumes and left in the can. With two carbs, you would plumb breather output at front of engine to the can input nipple and the the output nipple of the can into a Y connector, with the final two tubing lines from the Y connector going into the back of the air filters.
I found a nylon Y connector on E-bay that was a reducer to 2 smaller tubes sizes that fit the air filter input fittings.
I don't think you will have a negative impact on your carb tuning.
Rgds
David

 

You learn something new every day. I just google oil separators and came up with ones you can purchase. And here I thought I was going to have to make my own out of a tin can! I read the reviews on them and will heed all cautions. Also, WILL be replacing the intake valve oil seals. Am awaiting the valve spring compressor I ordered to remove the valves and see what I get into. I also have new valve springs, cam shaft bearing, have ordered a batch of cam follower shims to work with, have all new block studs, new timing chain guide pads (upper and lower), etc. etc. Don't know yet until I look at the valves and seats whether to do a valve job or just lap them in. More to come there.

Universal Aluminum Oil Catch Can Reservoir Tank Baffled Engine Air Oil Separator | eBay

 

All of my chain guides have groves in them, including
the lower hydraulic tensioner. I have replaced the four fixed guide playes with new ones ( no groves in the new). Should I also replace the the hydraulic one?