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WELL... I'M DONE! (For now). I can't tell you how much this Forum and YouTube have helped me out!! I've followed just about ALL the advice and the job went relatively smoothly. What I thought was going to be the hardest - putting the Head on by myself - was the easiest job of all. Greased up the top 2" of the new studs just below the threads, lifted on the Head and it was all I could do to get my fingers out of the way when the Head just slid down to the new Head Gasket. Easy Peasey.
New tools I now own that I didn't have before: Valve Spring Compressor (makes a nice wall hanging now), Dial Indicator, Digital Micrometer (I now use it ALL the time), Harmonic Pulley Remover (one and done), Impact Sockets (to remove nut holding on harmonic pulley), Rebuilt my 25 gallon tank compressor (piston kit), fabricated long thread chaser for lower stud threads in block (one and done), a XJ cam alignment tool (one and done) and a full assortment of thread chasers and dies (and I now use them whenever taking something apart and putting back together). I will say I went inexpensive on all of them. Most through EBay. And everyone of them served me exactly the way they should have, and with surprising quality. I had everything else and more accumulated over the seven decades I've been a Grease Monkey. And I have a BIG tool chest with at least 25 drawers all labeled, FULL of the appropriate tools, a decent size workbench with vise. Everything needed to accomplish this job.
The Job: Replace Head Gasket and figure out how to get the engine temp down when running the A/C during our hot Florida Summers.
Tasks - Disassembly - Remove hood, remove bumper, grill, valance, drain all fluids, remove A/C condenser, alternator, remove intake manifold, exhaust manifold, water pump, cam covers, disconnect cam chains, unbolt head bolts, remove head, see that the Head Gasket is blown between cylinder 6 and 5 (breathe a sigh of relieve that it's the Head Gasket and not the block or Head that was bad), clean all piston tops, remove all Head/Block studs, remove starter, remove all freeze-out plugs, remove harmonic pulley, remove timing chain cover, remove timing cover seal and bearing boss, remove all timing chain guide plates and automatic tensioner. Completely clean Head (really gooped up on the intake side), disassemble valves/springs/retainers, continue cleaning.
Task - ReAssembly - Lap NEW valves into old valve seats (guides spec out okay), install NEW springs, install old cam followers with old shims, install cams (one at a time) with NEW cam bearings, measure cam lobe clearance, replace shims with correct thickness for factory specs on each cam lobe to cam follower. Install both cams using cam alignment tool. In the Block ream out all 14 Head/Block stud threads, clean out inside of Block, insert 14 NEW correct sized Head/Block studs in appropriate positions (care to where the long ones go for the engine lifting brackets), install NEW brass freeze-out core plugs, install starter. Install all NEW timing chain guides and automatic tensioner shoe assembly (no replacement of timing chains), install NEW front timing cover seal, install timing cover, install harmonic pulley, paint timing marks white, find TDC on #6 piston with dial indicator, and adjust pointer on timing cover to indicate TDC. Install Head Gasket, install Head, Torque to specs with NEW chrome acorn nuts and copper washers (sealing under washers), connect up the timing chain sprocket wheels to cams and ensure alignment with cams and #6 piston on power stroke. install breather assembly, install cam covers (with NEW gaskets) using 1/4" Stat-O-Seals under NEW copper washers and NEW chrome cam cover acorn nuts. Install alternator, A/C compressor, belts, etc. Install intake manifold, carburetors, exhaust manifold, exhaust pipe, NEW aluminum radiator, A/C condenser and all hoses, NEW A/C Dryer. Fill with NEW coolant, NEW oil and filter, reconnect all electrical. Install NEW Oil Catch Can and appropriate plumbing from Breather Assembly on front of Head Assembly. Install battery.
Then... take a deep breath, and turn the key. She fires right up, doesn't make the ricky-ticky sounds it used to make, has three slight coolant leaks from hose clamps I neglected to fully tighten. Test drive yielded NO PROBLEMS WHAT-SO-EVER. And the best part is that with the new aluminum XJS radiator, even on the hottest days with the A/C on (blowing 39d F BTW) the engine NEVER runs warm any more. Job accomplished! Back to using my Jaguar on a daily basis for two weeks now and happy to report - still no problems. Happy, Happy!
Hopefully the Oil Catch Can will minimize the Intake gooping up.
Thank you, but... I'm not looking to rebuild the bottom end - ever. So, I'm content to drive it like a 46yo car that she is. I'm sure I still have the rear chassis ahead of me at some point, but that's NOT the same as pulling the engine and rebuilding it. That doesn't mean I drive like an old man - it just means I pick and choose my driving habits. After all, I AM from New England (an impatient CT driver) with a Gymkanna, Time Trials (Lime Rock) and Hill Climb racing background with a highly modified TR4,when I wore a younger man's clothes. Oh, the good ole days!
XLELLENT WORK !!! After that travail the first fire up, then the first drive. What a thrill.
A time ago, I learned a small lesson. Do not use a screw driver to tighten hose clamps.
My 1/4" drive with a 3/8" socket mush easier and gets a tighter clamp.. With xtesnins for hard to reach, s you say, easy peasy...
"Then... take a deep breath, and turn the key. She fires right up.... Happy, Happy!"
Bill,
After becoming a full fledged Jaguar owner-driver-maintainer !!!! Happy, just isn't a one day "relief to joy"...." what did I get myself into?, to I knew I could do that'
You will wake up tomorrow with a smile on your face, and chuckle to yourself at the service station as some young stranger says nice car!!!
When you can say "Jaguar and fires right up" in the same sentence you know all is well.
Great work and thank to you for the good documentation.
Rgds
David
Thank you Larry. That means a lot to me. I do think of all of you as a band of Brothers (and Sister) when I'm working on my car. We all have this passion very much in common. And the deeper we get into our cars - the more respect and honor we have for each other. And to school off each other is precious. I'm proud to be a part of this Forum and its intent.
I was looking back over your picture and I have got to ask what year ? Model? and what color is your car? 1985 Jaguar Sovereign European delivery version. Claradon Blue with Doeskin interior. I have better pictures somewhere.
It's a 1975 XJ6C that the PO bought all the badging and chrome of a Daimler. So no where on the car does it say the word Jaguar - only Daimler (except the seatbelt shoulder protectors I bought as after-market). And... I get the questions all the time - what kind of car is that? It is black with a biscuit interior. I bought it 3/20/2003 off EBay; shipped to Florida from California. VERY misrepresented. My bad for not getting it checked out ahead of time. Been a total restoration project over the years. I keep a meticulous Log Book (and in Excel) just to try and keep track of what I've done (and re-done until I got it right).
Reminds me of Conway Twitty. "The lady with the tight fitting jeans" , title of the melody Lyrics include "farther than we have ever gone before. . Crooned....
Just when I thought I had closed out this chain, I found a puddle of oil under the front of the engine over the weekend!! First looked at front oil seal (thinking the worst) - nope clean as a whistle. Then saw lots of drips under the water pump, and in the joint of the head to block! I thought the worst - the head gasket is leaking oil!!! Retorqued the water pump and the head bolts. THEN I saw a trail of oil coming out of the front of the driver's side cam cover. WHAT A RELIEF!! I pulled the cam cover and lo and behold the gasket was split. I have NO IDEA how that could have happened. It did NOT happen on my install. I wouldn't have done that. Besides it ran clean for two week now as my daily driver. I originally installed the gasket with Hylomar Blue just on the head side. Everything on the internet told me not to put on both sides of the gasket. Anybody have any ideas as to what could happened to break that gasket and create that gap? This time, I Hylomar'd both sides of the gasket.
Arencha glad you didn't Ignore that like some people I could name!
"Oh, it's just a little oil, all Jags leak.
It'll be fine! Don't worry about it."
(';')
