Body and Paint time
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#6
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*Nice* work!!
It looks like there were about 15 coats of paint on that hood!
While I had my interior stripped replacing my floor pan, Roger Mabry recommended I put B-Quiet insulation and sound deadening material on all metal surfaces. Now that your car is stripped down to bare metal (especially your floors) you might want to think about doing that too. I highly recommend that stuff.
B-Quiet is Very easy to work with, cuts easily with scissors, sticks to primer well; in fact sticks to almost Anything that isn't dirty.
I found it on Amazon through a simple Google search.
(';')
It looks like there were about 15 coats of paint on that hood!
While I had my interior stripped replacing my floor pan, Roger Mabry recommended I put B-Quiet insulation and sound deadening material on all metal surfaces. Now that your car is stripped down to bare metal (especially your floors) you might want to think about doing that too. I highly recommend that stuff.
B-Quiet is Very easy to work with, cuts easily with scissors, sticks to primer well; in fact sticks to almost Anything that isn't dirty.
I found it on Amazon through a simple Google search.
(';')
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Mark Scotton (09-24-2015)
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DC73 (05-24-2015)
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#10
Good to see the paint coming off.
If it's a Series 3 this is essential to get rid of the absolutely ghastly original paint called TPA (Thermo-Plastic Acrylic). This paint process was misguidedly sold to Jaguar in the late 70s just as the Series 3 was about to start production, but was a complete disaster. It is almost impossible to make spot repairs with this paint, and attempts to respray with "normal" car paint usually failed after about 12-18 months, sometimes sooner.
So bare steel it needs to be before repainting.
If it's a Series 3 this is essential to get rid of the absolutely ghastly original paint called TPA (Thermo-Plastic Acrylic). This paint process was misguidedly sold to Jaguar in the late 70s just as the Series 3 was about to start production, but was a complete disaster. It is almost impossible to make spot repairs with this paint, and attempts to respray with "normal" car paint usually failed after about 12-18 months, sometimes sooner.
So bare steel it needs to be before repainting.
#14
Hidden Rust
When I did my bare metal respray I removed the gas tanks as well.
I also had several perforations in the corners of the front and back windscreens. If there are holes in the corners of the rear screen, I would check to see if there is rust up inside the wheel wells as viewed through the place where the gas tanks were. Check the baffle ends....
As it turns out, the water that gets in through the rear windscreen perforations can dribble down from the corners inside,.. to the large baffle. This baffle runs across the back of the car under the rear parcel shelf. The baffle has a foam type of material on the ends that can trap the water. The water keeps the foam soaked and because the foam covered ends contact the inner wall of the rear wing, (both sides) it will eventually rust through after some bubbling. When it does rust through it will materialize
on the side of the car just above the rear wheel opening running up to the fuel filler caps.
Now is the best time to check/repair while doing the respray.
I mention this as it is not readily obvious (unless you can see the it and the rust has already eaten its way through.
If it has not eaten through,..this rust is easy to miss ,..and if you do,... a year or so later the rust bubbles start to appear...after you have just spent all the time and $$.....
I think that when doing a bare metal respray ,...this should be one of the areas to be examined closely when repairing the body metal... prior to painting.
I also had several perforations in the corners of the front and back windscreens. If there are holes in the corners of the rear screen, I would check to see if there is rust up inside the wheel wells as viewed through the place where the gas tanks were. Check the baffle ends....
As it turns out, the water that gets in through the rear windscreen perforations can dribble down from the corners inside,.. to the large baffle. This baffle runs across the back of the car under the rear parcel shelf. The baffle has a foam type of material on the ends that can trap the water. The water keeps the foam soaked and because the foam covered ends contact the inner wall of the rear wing, (both sides) it will eventually rust through after some bubbling. When it does rust through it will materialize
on the side of the car just above the rear wheel opening running up to the fuel filler caps.
Now is the best time to check/repair while doing the respray.
I mention this as it is not readily obvious (unless you can see the it and the rust has already eaten its way through.
If it has not eaten through,..this rust is easy to miss ,..and if you do,... a year or so later the rust bubbles start to appear...after you have just spent all the time and $$.....
I think that when doing a bare metal respray ,...this should be one of the areas to be examined closely when repairing the body metal... prior to painting.
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Mark Scotton (09-24-2015)
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1. Are these the final wheels? The flares accomodate them just neat ?
2. Can't keep from looking at the roadster in the back ground.
My 83 still wears it's Thermoplastic. It has aged well, no crazing and cracking.
Shows it's age but shines up well. Has had it's share of compliments. Grosvenor Brown not seen often. It attracted me. I bought it. With the doeskin interior, a combo not often seen.
Nice work, No, much better than just nice. spectacular.
Carl
2. Can't keep from looking at the roadster in the back ground.
My 83 still wears it's Thermoplastic. It has aged well, no crazing and cracking.
Shows it's age but shines up well. Has had it's share of compliments. Grosvenor Brown not seen often. It attracted me. I bought it. With the doeskin interior, a combo not often seen.
Nice work, No, much better than just nice. spectacular.
Carl
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#20