Body and Paint time
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 349
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From: Hamilton ON Canada
Body and Paint time
went to the body shop today and met with the guys who will be doing to work for me. looks to be a good choice and i cant wait to send them the car
some of their custom work, do you recognize where that hood came from??
some of their custom work, do you recognize where that hood came from??
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Tehama County, California, USA
<My *Opinion*>
I can't imagine my car being seen in public without bumpers. Admittedly some are better than others, but most cars are designed to have bumpers and look unfinished without them.
</My *Opinion*>
(';')
I can't imagine my car being seen in public without bumpers. Admittedly some are better than others, but most cars are designed to have bumpers and look unfinished without them.
</My *Opinion*>
(';')
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 349
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From: Hamilton ON Canada
I know that most times taking the bumpers off would look bad if done poorly, but i have full confidence in the body guys to make it look stock and make it safe as well. i should be getting some sketches from them soon so i will post them up when i do.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Tehama County, California, USA
*Nice* work!!
It looks like there were about 15 coats of paint on that hood!
While I had my interior stripped replacing my floor pan, Roger Mabry recommended I put B-Quiet insulation and sound deadening material on all metal surfaces. Now that your car is stripped down to bare metal (especially your floors) you might want to think about doing that too. I highly recommend that stuff.
B-Quiet is Very easy to work with, cuts easily with scissors, sticks to primer well; in fact sticks to almost Anything that isn't dirty.
I found it on Amazon through a simple Google search.
(';')
It looks like there were about 15 coats of paint on that hood!
While I had my interior stripped replacing my floor pan, Roger Mabry recommended I put B-Quiet insulation and sound deadening material on all metal surfaces. Now that your car is stripped down to bare metal (especially your floors) you might want to think about doing that too. I highly recommend that stuff.
B-Quiet is Very easy to work with, cuts easily with scissors, sticks to primer well; in fact sticks to almost Anything that isn't dirty.
I found it on Amazon through a simple Google search.
(';')
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
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Welcome!
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From: Crewe, England
Good to see the paint coming off.
If it's a Series 3 this is essential to get rid of the absolutely ghastly original paint called TPA (Thermo-Plastic Acrylic). This paint process was misguidedly sold to Jaguar in the late 70s just as the Series 3 was about to start production, but was a complete disaster. It is almost impossible to make spot repairs with this paint, and attempts to respray with "normal" car paint usually failed after about 12-18 months, sometimes sooner.
So bare steel it needs to be before repainting.
If it's a Series 3 this is essential to get rid of the absolutely ghastly original paint called TPA (Thermo-Plastic Acrylic). This paint process was misguidedly sold to Jaguar in the late 70s just as the Series 3 was about to start production, but was a complete disaster. It is almost impossible to make spot repairs with this paint, and attempts to respray with "normal" car paint usually failed after about 12-18 months, sometimes sooner.
So bare steel it needs to be before repainting.
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 577
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From: Seattle
Hidden Rust
When I did my bare metal respray I removed the gas tanks as well.
I also had several perforations in the corners of the front and back windscreens. If there are holes in the corners of the rear screen, I would check to see if there is rust up inside the wheel wells as viewed through the place where the gas tanks were. Check the baffle ends....
As it turns out, the water that gets in through the rear windscreen perforations can dribble down from the corners inside,.. to the large baffle. This baffle runs across the back of the car under the rear parcel shelf. The baffle has a foam type of material on the ends that can trap the water. The water keeps the foam soaked and because the foam covered ends contact the inner wall of the rear wing, (both sides) it will eventually rust through after some bubbling. When it does rust through it will materialize
on the side of the car just above the rear wheel opening running up to the fuel filler caps.
Now is the best time to check/repair while doing the respray.
I mention this as it is not readily obvious (unless you can see the it and the rust has already eaten its way through.
If it has not eaten through,..this rust is easy to miss ,..and if you do,... a year or so later the rust bubbles start to appear...after you have just spent all the time and $$.....
I think that when doing a bare metal respray ,...this should be one of the areas to be examined closely when repairing the body metal... prior to painting.
I also had several perforations in the corners of the front and back windscreens. If there are holes in the corners of the rear screen, I would check to see if there is rust up inside the wheel wells as viewed through the place where the gas tanks were. Check the baffle ends....
As it turns out, the water that gets in through the rear windscreen perforations can dribble down from the corners inside,.. to the large baffle. This baffle runs across the back of the car under the rear parcel shelf. The baffle has a foam type of material on the ends that can trap the water. The water keeps the foam soaked and because the foam covered ends contact the inner wall of the rear wing, (both sides) it will eventually rust through after some bubbling. When it does rust through it will materialize
on the side of the car just above the rear wheel opening running up to the fuel filler caps.
Now is the best time to check/repair while doing the respray.
I mention this as it is not readily obvious (unless you can see the it and the rust has already eaten its way through.
If it has not eaten through,..this rust is easy to miss ,..and if you do,... a year or so later the rust bubbles start to appear...after you have just spent all the time and $$.....
I think that when doing a bare metal respray ,...this should be one of the areas to be examined closely when repairing the body metal... prior to painting.
NICE!
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From: Walnut Creek, California
1. Are these the final wheels? The flares accomodate them just neat ?
2. Can't keep from looking at the roadster in the back ground.
My 83 still wears it's Thermoplastic. It has aged well, no crazing and cracking.
Shows it's age but shines up well. Has had it's share of compliments. Grosvenor Brown not seen often. It attracted me. I bought it. With the doeskin interior, a combo not often seen.
Nice work, No, much better than just nice. spectacular.
Carl
2. Can't keep from looking at the roadster in the back ground.
My 83 still wears it's Thermoplastic. It has aged well, no crazing and cracking.
Shows it's age but shines up well. Has had it's share of compliments. Grosvenor Brown not seen often. It attracted me. I bought it. With the doeskin interior, a combo not often seen.
Nice work, No, much better than just nice. spectacular.
Carl
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 349
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From: Hamilton ON Canada
the car will be red, so that i dont have to tell the ministry of transportation anything hehe... those are the wheels i will run for now, am going to have them painted or neochromed havent decided yet
