Hello all -

In the home stretch on fixing several leaky oil things on my 86 SIII and replacing the rack. I have a few questions/comments regarding the cam oil feeds on the back of the head. Based on what I have read in many posts:

1) I bought the longer banjo bolts since I do not know the condition of the current bolts or head threads. I don't know of any warnings or concerns I should be worried about. Torque snugly but not too much.

2) I just read a post where they said the banjo bolts COULD NOT be removed with the engine in place. Nobody else has mentioned this and it sure seems there is enough room to pull out the old and replace the new. Any comments on this??

3) I plan to use the Stat-O upgrade washers instead of OEM thin copper ones. Lots of concern in posts about extra thickness compared to original copper, but Moss sells them as an upgrade and other posts say they work fine. Any special concerns or still torque snugly but not too tight.

4) Once I have the upper banjo bolts out at back of head I thought it would be a good idea to "clean" the oil pipe? Any suggestions? Maybe a piece of wire with a small loop at end? Or compressed air? I do not plan to undo the fitting at the oil pump since it shows no sign of leaking.

5) Finally, tangential, but for the valve cover copper washers, I plan to anneal as suggested. But is this something I can do weeks ahead of time or must this be done just before using them. I have no heat treating experience.

As always thanks so much for the tips and advice.

Randy in Raleigh

 

Randy,

1) The longer threaded banjo bolts take 98% of the thread strip fear away. Stupidity can still strip the head, as we all know. Just nice and firm, and I ALWAYS use lube (grease if nothing else around) on those threads.

2) MAAAATE, ya got the 1/2 an engine, could park a Roddtrain back there. The REAL engine, NOPE, that is engine out for that task.

3) I used the standard copper washers in the sleection box I had on the bench at the time, Its not a Rocket Science area at all.

4) NAH, dont re-invent the wheel. If you MUST, so be it, but I would not bother, They have been connected, so not open to spiders etc nesting in there, and I seriously doubt sludge build up. Always remember, whatever you poke down there could get stuck, then its BEER O'clock.

5) Whenever time permits. They will stay annealed until used.

 

THANKS SO MUCH GRANT! Really appreciate the advice and 1/2 motor explanation makes total sense now😂

Almost dropped razor blade down into timing cover hole last night gently cleaning last of stubborn valve cover old gasket. My heart raced for 10 minutes!!

Randy

 

"Almost'? That's nuthin'; doesn't count; hardly worth mentioning

One time I was doing a head gasket job and stuffed some rags into the timing cover to prevent any bolts or bits from dropping in. An old trick. But you gotta make sure to remove all the rags before turning the engine over .

I spent hours removing tiny shards of the rag.

Cheers
DD

 

Razor blade, NAH, the chain and sprockets would chew that up NO problems, anmd the mince will come out at the next oil change.

Like Doug, its the cam sprocket bolts, that big circlip, and so on that get scary, rags or no rags, they WILL find that gap you missed.

Would have loved to be a fly on the wall in Dougs shop when his engine ate that rag, OOPS.

 

I've been lucky that most of my goof-ups have been made while nobody was watching, saving me the embarrassment ......and endless rib-poking.

You can safely confess these things years afterward, however, with a bit of a chuckle.

Cheers
DD