Hey, I'm 99% sure my electric windows relay on my series 2 has crapped itself it was working good but i must of wired them up wrong as 1 switch had wires coming off and there are so many wires and still not sure there wired right but since i have 2 series 2 jaguars i checked my good working one and noticed power going into the silver relay attached to the shifter box then when i turn the key on power ends up going out the other wire as there is only 2 wires on the relay. and my broken one i only get power going into the relay and doesn't come out im just wonder how important this relay is? can i just bypass it for now as no shops around here knows where to order a new relay.

If i can bypass the relay to get my windows working what would the cons be if i do this? also how do i know if all my switches are wired up right? i first copyed the wiring from haynes manual but thats when it blew the relay i then looked at my other jaguar and copyed how those wires went but not sure if its right because i now have no relay so windows are still stuck as finding a relay is so hard here.

This jaguar isn't going to be my daily driver or been used much as it has a 1000hp turbo 460 v8 and only use it on occasions but would like the windows to work.

Thanks in advance

 

I ran out of breath reading all that, no comma's, etc to allow a breath, fair dinkum, it wore me out. No matter some JD to the rescue, and I am now firing on all 12 again haha.

That relay is NOT a relay. It is the thermal overload unit (self setting fuse) for the whole power window circuit.

The S2 had NO relays for the windows, that I remember, hence the switches dying regularly, as they carry the full load.

By all means by pass that unit, BUT, and I mean BUT, if you have a switch that is hissy, and the load stays in the ON position, you have NO protection for the rest of the circuits, including motors/wires/switches etc, and fires will occur.

 

I comment with disclaimer as electrickery is not one of the things I have mastered.

In my business career, I adopted a writing style that my clients might find easier to read. I had sat at their desks reading copious material. Short sentences. Short paragraphs, even if it meant a split at a place an English teacher would mark. At times, I would number the paragraphs, making reference easier.
Just saying. Apologies for the soap box!!

As to the point at hand:

1. Add up the amp load for the circuit protected. Buy a generic thermal unit and install.

2. Add up the amp load and sub a fuse of the right size. Amp load plus margin. Blade fuse preferred.

3. Thermal wire of appropriate size.

I shudder at circuits minus some degree of protection. although in my early days, I did it a lot in wiring up my scratch built critters. But, those were low load simple circuits.

Carl

 

Memory returned!!

3. A better term is fusible link.

The PCM circuits to supply power in my lump are protected by fusible links.

I would have chosen a fuse or thermal protection box.

Will I change, not unless I get a failure!

Carl

 

Sorry about my grammer. Thanks for the info, I was told it was a relay. I'll get some fuse's put into place as a short term fix and see how I go. Thanks guys

 

Have hooked up a 16amp fuse inbetween the 2 wires, only one i had laying around. Windows go up and down now, is 16amp to big of a fuse or would this be ok to protect me if something goes wrong?

Thanks

 

If they are working fine with 16v amps, leave it be.

Being as how you are RHD also, the following applies.

The only issue that may arise is if the LHF, LHR, RHR are operated at the same time (rare, but I just mention it), then it may blow.

The RHF is the "master switch" on a S2, and if that is being operated the rest are dead. Sort of like "the driver is the BOSS, wait till I am finished with my window".

I would NOT go over 25amps. the heavy wires are 30+amp rated, but lets not tempt old age, mmmm.

The thermal fuse was also a safe guard in the event of a switch being held in the down or up position, such as a book, or similar resting on them, thus keeping that circuit alive, and the motors alive, then the thermal blew, and the circuit remained dead for a short period. That I read in a S2 manual many, many years ago, and scoffed at it then, but I suppose it has some merit.

 

Awesome thanks for that and yeah I don't plan on all windows to be wound down at same time anyway =] rear right window only goes down very slowly as the spring coil thing i noticed is rusted which causes it to stop half way, I have lubed it up so it works better but not 100%. But hey I wont be a passenger so not worried

Thanks guys for the info much appreciated good to learn more about my car.

 

Sorry to revive a really old thread but I have a similar question. I have a 1976 Series 2 XJ6 (RHD). I recently had the electric window switch panel out of the middle console and accidentally one of the wires touched on the metal backing to the panel. Thereafter all the windows went dead. I checked all the fuses located down and to the right of the steering wheel and they all checked out ok. I then noticed a small black "relay" looking thing that is located above the fuses that only had two wires attached to it, one a solid brown and one a red with grey spiralling around. I pulled these off the "relay" and connected them together and the windows all work now.

Question is, is this a type of fuse since it doesn't look like any kind of relay that I know of. Is it a type of thermal cut-out? Presumably if it was a thermal cut-out though it would have kicked the power back in after cooling down which it didn't do. I have no idea where to replace this thing or if it is even still available.

Please could someone in the know shed some light?

 

The window relay is a tin can thing, looks Just like you would expect a relay from that era to look:

Normally (whatever that is) it's mounted on the blower housing above the driver's knees. Mine was lying under the arm rest tray on the tunnel.

I think you found what's supposed to be the self-healing thermal breaker, also mounted in the same area. Your dead short may have blown its little mind though, as you have operating windows when you remove it from the circuit.

David Bodger at everydayxj.com, a dismantler who posts here, will doubtless have one. He has an online catalog, and even more stuff not listed there. Give him a shout.
(';')

 

Yeah it was that little black thing which is mounted right next to the tin can thing that obviously had its brains fried. Unfortunately I am in South Africa and would need to source one somewhere local.

Many thanks for your feedback though. Much appreciated!

 

My thermal cutout switch caught on fire recently whenever i was working on it. Safe to say mine didn't work.