Part # Radiator Flaps And Other, 6.0 V12.
#1
Part # Radiator Flaps And Other, 6.0 V12.
Does anyone have part #s for the radiator flaps?.....cannot find them in my EPC. Or, maybe they only come with the complete electric fan shroud?
I can see the point of these being closed at a stop/crawl situation, so the mechanical fan is not sucking in hot engine bay air. However, what about the open aperture created by the auxiliary electric fan (when it is not on). Seems the answer, to this, is that it should, eventually, come on with sufficient temperature rise, or be on when the AC compressor is operating on the older (pre 1989?) XJS. I'm thinking, when stopped, why wait for a flakey thermo switch to come on?... why start cooking the motor when extra cooling capacity is available? It would be nice to set it, to come on, with a pre set low engine (1200?) rpm. I'm currently reading everything I can find on auto electrics, as that is not a strong point for me, at the moment.
I think, I would be uneasy with the aux fan running all the time.....I assume it has carbon brushes.....which are probably unavailable and the motors seem pretty pricey.
I have spent several days reading everything I can find on the design/quirks/problems of the V12 cooling system. So I, have to, agree with the "authorities", that the system has very little spare capacity.
I'm now gathering all the parts for a complete renewal/refurb of the cooling system,over the coming winter.
Does anyone have a source for the coolant bypass pipe in, stainless or non ferrous? I've emailed Cat House Spares in Oz but, as yet, have had no response....it seems the stainless header tank and water rail connecting pipes or readily available. I will be using coolant filters, probably the Ganos, as it looks like the Tefbas will not clear the air intake ducts, esp on the left side.
And yes, my investigations, point to a "somewhat" clogged up radiator!!!
Temperature difference between top and bottom hoses ranges from 3F (temp gauge moving of the N) to 10F (temp gauge moving on to the N).
System well bled and all mods and easy checks (foam etc) done.
I read, somewhere, that this diff should be, around, 18F to 28F.
Thanks,
Rob.
2006 X Type Wagon.
1994 XJS 6.0 V12 Convertible.
1987 XJ6 DD.
I can see the point of these being closed at a stop/crawl situation, so the mechanical fan is not sucking in hot engine bay air. However, what about the open aperture created by the auxiliary electric fan (when it is not on). Seems the answer, to this, is that it should, eventually, come on with sufficient temperature rise, or be on when the AC compressor is operating on the older (pre 1989?) XJS. I'm thinking, when stopped, why wait for a flakey thermo switch to come on?... why start cooking the motor when extra cooling capacity is available? It would be nice to set it, to come on, with a pre set low engine (1200?) rpm. I'm currently reading everything I can find on auto electrics, as that is not a strong point for me, at the moment.
I think, I would be uneasy with the aux fan running all the time.....I assume it has carbon brushes.....which are probably unavailable and the motors seem pretty pricey.
I have spent several days reading everything I can find on the design/quirks/problems of the V12 cooling system. So I, have to, agree with the "authorities", that the system has very little spare capacity.
I'm now gathering all the parts for a complete renewal/refurb of the cooling system,over the coming winter.
Does anyone have a source for the coolant bypass pipe in, stainless or non ferrous? I've emailed Cat House Spares in Oz but, as yet, have had no response....it seems the stainless header tank and water rail connecting pipes or readily available. I will be using coolant filters, probably the Ganos, as it looks like the Tefbas will not clear the air intake ducts, esp on the left side.
And yes, my investigations, point to a "somewhat" clogged up radiator!!!
Temperature difference between top and bottom hoses ranges from 3F (temp gauge moving of the N) to 10F (temp gauge moving on to the N).
System well bled and all mods and easy checks (foam etc) done.
I read, somewhere, that this diff should be, around, 18F to 28F.
Thanks,
Rob.
2006 X Type Wagon.
1994 XJS 6.0 V12 Convertible.
1987 XJ6 DD.
#2
My experience with the 6ltr is very limited, as there are only a handfull in OZ.
I do not agree with the lack of capacity of the V12 cooling system, just lack of maintenance by the owner/s.
All my V12's run twin thermo fans, of Ford Australia brand, and the RH is wired to the "flaky" (I seriouly doubt that word in this application) switch as the thermo only fan, with a manual over-ride inside the cabin, just in case. That switch has never been used.
The LH is purely A/C, and as long as the A/C is ON, that fan is running.
In our summers, about 45c for 3+ months, and the A/C fan ON, the thermo fan (RH) never ever comes on.
Radiator cleanliness is one area I am rather a*^l about, and the rads come out every 5 years for professional cleaning, and new correct length stats are fitted.
They have been this way since 1995, and are just fine.
I removed the engine driven fans due to cracks, and the price of the replacement blades was really stupid at that time. The Ford fans were $238 each, and that made the decision very easy.
Getting all the mud and crud out of the engine block and associated cooling components will be fun at best, but necesarry in my opinion.
I do not agree with the lack of capacity of the V12 cooling system, just lack of maintenance by the owner/s.
All my V12's run twin thermo fans, of Ford Australia brand, and the RH is wired to the "flaky" (I seriouly doubt that word in this application) switch as the thermo only fan, with a manual over-ride inside the cabin, just in case. That switch has never been used.
The LH is purely A/C, and as long as the A/C is ON, that fan is running.
In our summers, about 45c for 3+ months, and the A/C fan ON, the thermo fan (RH) never ever comes on.
Radiator cleanliness is one area I am rather a*^l about, and the rads come out every 5 years for professional cleaning, and new correct length stats are fitted.
They have been this way since 1995, and are just fine.
I removed the engine driven fans due to cracks, and the price of the replacement blades was really stupid at that time. The Ford fans were $238 each, and that made the decision very easy.
Getting all the mud and crud out of the engine block and associated cooling components will be fun at best, but necesarry in my opinion.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 09-07-2015 at 04:41 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
1100me (09-08-2015),
Greg in France (09-07-2015)
#3
My experience with the 6ltr is very limited, as there are only a handfull in OZ.
I do not agree with the lack of capacity of the V12 cooling system, just lack of maintenance by the owner/s.
All my V12's run twin thermo fans, of Ford Australia brand, and the RH is wired to the "flaky" (I seriouly doubt that word in this application) switch as the thermo only fan, with a manual over-ride inside the cabin, just in case. That switch has never been used.
The LH is purely A/C, and as long as the A/C is ON, that fan is running.
In our summers, about 45c for 3+ months, and the A/C fan ON, the thermo fan (RH) never ever comes on.
I do not agree with the lack of capacity of the V12 cooling system, just lack of maintenance by the owner/s.
All my V12's run twin thermo fans, of Ford Australia brand, and the RH is wired to the "flaky" (I seriouly doubt that word in this application) switch as the thermo only fan, with a manual over-ride inside the cabin, just in case. That switch has never been used.
The LH is purely A/C, and as long as the A/C is ON, that fan is running.
In our summers, about 45c for 3+ months, and the A/C fan ON, the thermo fan (RH) never ever comes on.
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