Hello all,

I've had 2 of these cars now and I've noticed the same problem on them both.

On some doors, the malfunction causes them to swing freely which generally means to swing shut unless you're parked on a strong decline.

My rear driver's door has had this condition since I purchased the car some years ago. Today, I was opening my driver's door and heard a metal 'plunk' or light 'crunch' near the door hinge - since that time my driver door now also swings freely and that mostly means swings shut after I open it and begin to climb out.

When I inspected the area around the hinge I found no debris nor anything obviously out of place - it was honestly very clean and clear of obstruction. Visually, I don't see anything different between the doors which have this symptom and those which don't - I'm sure there's something basic I'm missing.

Other than making for some very clumsy exits, it also makes loading and unloading difficult. Any ideas as to what causes these free swing doors and/or thoughts on repairs?

Thanks in advance
John.

 

My 86 VDP is the same ...I changed the bottom "spring" (it had cracked) and the "points" on the little wheel had been rounded off - no grip = door does as it wants - closes or swings wide open. I don't think this was a very good design, when you take into consideration the weight of the door and if the car is parked on a hill ,..the spring such as it is ...is simply not up to the job its supposed to do. Its another wonderful amazing piece of engineering from the house of Jaguar - more junk that does not work for very long. I gave up on the damn thing.

 

There is a large S shaped spring at the hinge which does most of the work in control the door. If its not there the door just flaps about.

Replacement was beyond the capabilities of this mere mortal and the indy shop I use had trouble getting the new one in , even though it was non OEM and slightly weaker than the original. Door is good now but still need to watch it if the door is opening uphill.

 

Mine was shattered.. But I think there are 2 things going on..The little knurled wheel gets rounded off (who ever greases them to preserve longevity ?) and the door looses its braking ability. And second I think you have to tension the spring once it is on the door by the process of installing the door to the car body and using the big bolts that hold the door on,..to apply pressure..the only way I can see to apply the amount of leverage needed. I wrestled with mine and now can not remember how I did it,..but it was a buggaa !!

 

Me!
(';')

 

You are one of the few LnrB

But can you tell me if the door stays (on your car) still work? ...- (hold the door in a designated position) and greasing the roller is a worthwhile exercise, or just a waste of time and grease ( if the rollers are rusty ...would they work better..- more resistance)

Seems like when you have something that is supposed to work smoothly , and it does not,...you add grease / oil / lube etc. So does it stand to reason that, if it works too smoothly,. it needs some resistance (or rust) and then it will not freewheel (like when they are rusty )...(scratching head)

 

Me too!!!


Back to my college days. I worked in a full, service 'gas" station.
Lubing them was a part of a "grease job". We had tubes of "clean stuff"
for that. Mostly for the door "strickers" but also on those cams.


Nowadays, I use a 'clean lube" that was intended for "food service"
equipment. Garage sale sourced a decade or so ago. Along with a clean caster equipped clean work table. Perfect mount for my HF sourced power mitre saw!!!


Carl

 

Yes, they ALL still work, and the driver roller doesn't look much more worn than, for example, the passenger rear. I'm thinking the PO lubed them (or at least that one) regularly. If lubed well, the rollers won't wear off their bumps because they're able to rotate on their shafts.
I looked carefully at how mine work, Alyn, and they go over-center to hold the door open.




Shattering springs usually indicates poor tempering, doesn't it? More quality control issues at BL?
(';')

 

Thanks for pics LnrB I will check to see if mine are on correctly. WHen the last one shattered I found the pieces on the garage floor. Got a replacement from an oldlJag at Pull a Part JY

 

My retaining clip for lack of a better word looks just like your operational one but as alynmurray said it looks like my roller has had the textured 'popped' off and instead just a round smooth slippery bit that slides with the door. I think I need a new textured roller bit; and maybe an actual word to describe it! Ha!

 

That star wheel thingy is part of the hinge, according to the factory ROM; riveted to the door half. It seems that to renew the teeth you need to replace the hinge.

That gives me renewed motivation to keep mine well lubed!
(';')

 

Oh well ..Live and Learn Shoulda snagged the hinges off of that nice low mile Jag I saw at Pull a Part a few months ago.. I think these cars are disappearing at an alarming rate with the only ones left running are those belonging to enthusiasts. Soon there will be more enthusiasts than cars .

After writing this I began to think, what if the pertinent hinge half is welded to the door ?

This is a rabbit hole ,...if the hinge half, that has the star wheel thingie, is welded to the door,...this could indeed be a gigantic pain in the butt. Don't even want to think about it now

 

Not welded to either the door or the pillar.
To change the front hinge you do need to remove the front fender (that takes up a full paragraph) and there you find 5 bolts hidden inside on the A-pillar. (Care is recommended about the "earthing straps" and other wires)

After that, in the door you take off the liner and remove 4 bolts and Schazaam, the hinge falls off on the floor - or so it says, more or less.

The rear doors are "easy." "The door must be fully supported in a closed position." And then the hinges merely unbolt from the B-pillar.
EDIT: I bet David Bodger has hinges.
(';')