All right, so here's my dilemma. Every now and then the starter doesn't engage and my battery light is on or getting brighter when I drive. So I went and got battery and alternator tested, they said the battery is bad. So I replaced it. No difference in the light or the starting thing, so I took the starter out and went and had it replaced, it was new, it was warranty thing. Now I went down the road yesterday and it died, lost all power. So I am thinking ignition. Is there any other part of the charging or starting system that I should consider replacing? Thanks in advance for all the advice

 

Lost all power?


1. No voltage anywhere?


2. The engine just quit?


Get out a VOM or a test lamp. Any volts across battery + to - ? Lamp lights or meter reads how many?


Ignition on. Check for voltage at coil+.


Report back


Charging, ignition and cranking are separate circuits. Of course, related.


Carl

 

Lots of 'could be' possibilities. Here's a couple....


On the firewall there are two "+" junction posts that service as distribution points for supply voltage to everything...and also the junction pointy for the large alternator output wire. Make sure connections at the posts are clean and tight.

Also make sure the heavy ground strap under the car is in good shape. Rh side, about where the engine and trans come together

Cheers
DD

 

It slowly died. As in the voltage was dropping and gauges started not working. Like I'd hit the brake and the speedo and info gauge would drop. At the last stop light you could tell the injectors cutting out and then it died. To power to starter after that.
Took starter, alternator, and battery to get tested today. They all tested good.
I'm thinking ignition because it's kinda been acting up when I start it for a couple weeks. I thought it was the starter that was cutting out but it just tested fine.
Sorry for delay in getting back, been running around all day.

 

I'll check those out Doug. I just got all the parts back in as it was and it started fine, running real rough, but got it pulled into the garage. Now I'll check everything else out and change the ignition also. I just happen to have one that I found at a junkyard a while back.

 

If voltage was dropping, then alternator is not charging or the battery is bad. Does your low batt dashboard idiot light come on?

Once upon a time, in my case that turned out to be a short in the alternator wire.

 

The light is on and gets brighter as you drive. I just got all the parts put back in last night, and it was showing that it was charging but the light was still on. could have been a bad wire, but they do go thru the ignition. I'm going to go change the ignition here after my coffee.

 

Amaezing:


Gotta be a bit critical. You are doing some parts stuff, and no circuit testing.


Doug's points, as usual, will get you down the trail to success.


You need a meter to track volts at various points. I suspect you are losing it somewhere.


And/or, jump 12v to coil +. It might just run great. that says, track back to the ignition switch and it's source of 12v, a brown wire!


Comment: A bum ignition switch in my somewhat similar car caused a lot of weird issues. A good one from David Boger of everydayxj fixed a lot of stuff.


Ignition issues seem to be go or no go, no in between. But, not a hard and fast rule.


When you say swap out the ignition, what do you mean? Distributor, amplifier, coil, wires, spark plugs, or all of the above???


There are some frail low tension wires and connectors that can cause a lot of mischief. Check, clean and or replace.


Carl.

 

1. I checked all the connections that Doug pointed out. In good shape.
2. What points do I check? I have checked almost everything I can think of, but maybe some specifics from you all will help me if I missed something.
3. Ignition=meaning the actual ignition switch where the key goes in. I just got done rigging that in and it fixxed the dragging starter issue. I was somewhat right about that part.

So now heres where it sits. Starts great, on the first bump. I checked everything I could think of and cleaned all the connections that I could, but MAYBE I missed something.
It's charging good again, but the battery light on the dash is on and it gets brighter as increase the R.P.M.'s or turn stuff on like the lights and heater...etc...

I'm sure that with all your help that I can get this figured out. Can I please get you to specify where the specific parts are when you ask if I checked this or that?
In addition to this issue, I need some input on the ignition(where the key goes). The one I got from the parts car had a set bolt that held it in place on the back side or bottom(however you want to look at it). The one that is in my car has two set thingy's, not bolts and thew are not turning. They seem pressed in. Any body know what the heck is up with this?

But the short is the important issue here.

I will check each and everything you all mention as soon as I read the post and let you know what the results are.

 

OK!!!


Ignition in your terms is the ignition switch in which you insert the key and turn to crank the car.


Let' discuss it. It is secured by two "break away" screws. One in front and one
behind. Several techniques to get those out. They are theft deterrent.


When the car was built those two screws had heads. Designed to break away
and leave the switch fastened with no way to remove the screws for theft reasons.




So, why does the Charge "idiot light" remain on and glow brighter on added RPM's?


At the moment, I am mystified.


Comment:


When I replaced my ignition switch, I used ordinary Allen bolts, not the "breakaways". I doubt that any car thief is willing to steal t aby doing all that to sub in a switch for with he has a key!!!


On more reflection, in your case, I'd look at the two wires from your alternator.
The large and the small.


Carl

 

But, for now, just enjoy a very happy Thanksgiving!!!


Carl

 

any tricks on breaking those "break aways off?
how do you suggest I check those wires? I am guessing you are referring to the single small wire and the single main(big wire). in which case I did clean the crap our of them. 12v going thru the big one and 7.5-12.4 coming out of the little one. That was before, I'll go check again now. Get back to you soon.

 

My volt meter just took a crap!!! I'll have someone bring one over here in a few and I'll get back to you.

 

I will Thank you. But I work tonight so I was hoping to get it resolved before then. I run a plow at night so I have to use my lights and heater tonight when I'm going there.
You enjoy your Thanksgiving as well!!

 

Alright i just got home. New meter in hand and going to fix this TODAY! I hope I can get some help on what to test from you all. Going to start a new thread as soon as I get the results from the alternator wires and a few others. If your following this then I will title the next thread "Short circuit". Since I'm convinced that it has to be something to do with a freakin short or draw somewhere. Had to drive to work about 40 miles away with no heat, as it's 8 degrees and the headlights almost killed the gauge reading.