Probably an issue done to death here but still hoping for some insight.

I picked up a cheap, and my first, 1983 xj6 that turn over but doesn't start.

I've loved these cars since I was a kid but never had one. I usually work on Mercedes and BMWs from this era.

Was sitting a long time so gas has been drained. I have spark, compression, fuel at the injectors, and power at the injectors.

Car was probably started with bad dirty gas because the crap I drained from the fuel filter was the worst I've ever seen.

Anyway, with fresh gas,crank no start so figured I'd replace the injectors after draining tanks. Clean fuel pumps through the new fuel filter now.

Removed the injectors and bench tested with air pressure. Only one actually had a spray pattern, one has no pulse at all, the others are stream or weak.

Cold start injector does not open at all, and of course I can't find a new one. I'm thinking about purchasing standard motor cj33 but hoping that the pb blaster I'm soaking it in helps but doubtful.

I'm figuring this is my issue but looking for thoughts from others.

Has anyone ever had success with the CJ33 CSV?

 

I can almost promise that the dead cold start injector is not causing your no-start condition. The most likely result of a inoperative CSI is a few extra spins of the starter if/when ambient temps start to approach freezing.

A millions years ago, when I had an XJ6, I accidentally discovered that my CSI was inoperative. I never had starting issues so I have no idea if the CSI was dead for days, weeks, or months.

From your posting I'm not clear if the 6 regular injectors have been repaired. And.....do they click when you crank the engine? And....what's your fuel pressure?

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for the reply.

All 6 injectors have been removed and they have not been repaired or replaced yet. I have 6 remanufactured injectors on order.

I have bench tested each injector with pressure and power. 1 sprayed correctly. I was totally dead, no click at all, the others had poor streaming patterns with no atomization.

 

Have not tested fuel pressure yet. Probably should have. I'm used to old k jetronic Mercedes systems and have a pressure tester for that system

 

Hopefully the newly rebuilt injectors will solve the problem.

I asked if they clicked while cranking to determine if the ECU was firing them. But let's wait and see what happens after the new ones are installed and go from there.

FTR, fuel pressure at the rail should be 36psi while cranking. While running it'll up/down a couple psi according to engine vacuum.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi, is the fuel pump running??

to test, here's a trick we all use:

1) move shifter to 1st gear, (you can also move it to D),
2) turn ignition key to START and Hold it in START position 6 to 10 seconds,
3) listen to pump. Do you hear the pump buzzing or whinning in the trunk? If yes, the pump is probably fine.

***but since you have removed the injectors, wait until they are installed again to do this test. Otherwise you risk spraying the engine compartment with gasoline !!

 

Thatch, I appreciate that you are undertaking this crank/no start issue as my 87 xj6 suffers from the same problem. I have not been able to remove/replace the injectors since this my only car at the moment. Please keep the forum apprised of your diagnostics and eventual resolution. I've read many threads where the resolution is not disclosed. I'd like to see the webmaster enhance this forum by allowing the thread originator to modify the searchable title to indicate the problem was solved (and of course document the solution). Good work so far. Best of luck. Ren

 

First have a read here to get some basic understanding of the Jaguar iteration of Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection: -
Fuel injection and the Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Series 3 / AJ6 Engineering
The article does include a trouble-shooting section too, however, two points come to mind
1. The ECU (an analogue device), fires the 6 injectors altogether twice per engine revolution. It does this by earthing them via a set of resistors positioned at the back of the engine compartment. Therefore each injector has 12 volts at it's terminals when the ignition is on.
2. The ECU gets a timing pulse for injector firing from the ignition system. This is via a wire off the coil on top of the engine. As I recall it is coloured white. Without this pulse the injectors wont be fired by the ECU

 

Sorry I haven't responded, I have not had a lot of time lately to work on it.

I have replaced the fuel filter, pump and all injectors. Fuel pressure is 36 when cranking and a little lower while running, when I can get it running.

Cold start injector does it work but it is very hard to start and often involves starting fluid in the air filter.

Will run when and drive well but something is missing.

I checked for vacuum leaks and found none.

I'm thinking and issue with the air flow meter or possibly the air mixture.

It stumbles a little at idle when first pushing throttle then seems better once the rpms are up

 

Good progress. From not running to running, albeit not quite right.

Time to consider ignition issues. A hot ble spark at each cylinder, on time, and eachand every combusstion cycle?

 

Not sure I have not messed with the distributor or timing.

Is the AFM adjustable? Mine has a cover where it looks like others have a hole where the adjustment screw I located?

 

I'd upload pic but can't figure out how. When messing with it I accidentally pushed the "cover" in

 

Loosened the bolt on the collar for the distributor but the distributor will not turn to adjust the timing. At idle timing appears to be around 22° BTDC so definitely seems like it should be adjusted but I cannot turn it at all.

I've tried to spray some pb blaster down there but does anybody have any tips?

 

Thatch, once I loosened the pinch bolt and sprayed pb blaster like you, I made creative use of a 3 jawed oil filter wrench to get a tight grasp onto the distributor housing (the distributor cap needs to be removed). I got the tool at a Napa store .
https://i.imgur.com/Es3oElF.jpeg

 

Thanks. Good tip I hadn't thought of that!

Hopefully I can get the screws out of the distributor cap without stripping them. They also seem to be be stuck.

I need a new can of pb blaster anyway lol

 

Anyone got any tip for removal of the distributor cap?

Screws won't turn and I can't adjust the distributor because it's seized up even with the bolt out of the collar.

I can't seem to move forward with this car. Everything I try to fix has a whole host if of issues

 

thatch, once the distributor cap is removed then this tool gave me the grip I needed to loosen it. If you cannot remove the cap hold down screws, after you have used the best fitting screwdriver, you can carefully drill the screw heads off, remove the cap, pb blaster the remaining screw studs(applying several shots of pb and allowing it to penetrate for an hour or so) then grab the studs as tightly as possible with vise grips and back out. Now you can use the adjustable oil filter wrench to grab the distributor housing and work in back and forth . Patience and plenty of pb should work

 

Great tip thanks. Got the distributor to turn but of course broke the cap in the process. Oh well just something else to replace. The collar is rusted to the bottom of the distributor so it's not coming out I guess.
Once I replace the distributor cap I'll at least be able to set the timing .

One step forward two steps back

 

Got distributor cap replaced and timing set.

New fuel filter, pump and injectors.

Car is hard to start cold. Cold start valve does not work. Bench tested it and no fuel comes out.

Fuel pressure at 36, compression test perfect all at 125-130

Adjusted throttle body to .002 and checked for vacuum leaks.

Once started it seems to run fine. After a few minutes of driving, could be 5 or 15, it begins to run rough, idle drops and will die and may not start up again .

I'm suspecting coolant temperature sensor. Just seems random that it's running fine then stumbles and dies. Then it's hard to start again. Usually hit starts at up much better and fires right up.

And other ideas

 

Hi you are making good process. I would change the CTS. If that is not working properly it could be causing your symptons. It tells your computer the car is cold so it runs rich. As the motor warms up it should tell the computer, so that the mix should become leaner but I think it isn't doing this so continues to run rich and starts to run rough then shuts down. Won't start again because the computer still thinks the engine is cold and is providing a rich mix. Once cooled right down it'll start again. There is a quick work around, when the car stumbles, try removing the plug from the CTS and short the connections together, in the plug (a paper clip works),this tricks the computer into thinking the engine is up to temp. If this fixes the problem change the CTS. You can remove and test the CTS in a saucepan of water using a multimeter but they are relatively cheap so probably easier to just replace.
Con