Coolant leak
#1
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Coolant leak
I have been prepping for a respray these past months and drive the car weekly for a half hour or so. This morning I ran the engine in the garage for ten minutes and coolant came out from the front RHS of the grille and all over the floor.
Opened the bonnet (hood) and could see top of rad RHS wet and leaking on the condenser.
Looking further there is an obvious old leak at what looks like the rad nipple
Should I repair this leak, refill and try or take the top covering off and have a look at the top of the rad and see if there's another problem?
It's difficult to see with the radiator top mounting panel in place, also how difficult is this to remove as it looks like electrics are mounted to it.
The way its squirted on the bumper makes me think it's not an actual radiator issue......thanks for any suggestions.
Opened the bonnet (hood) and could see top of rad RHS wet and leaking on the condenser.
Looking further there is an obvious old leak at what looks like the rad nipple
Should I repair this leak, refill and try or take the top covering off and have a look at the top of the rad and see if there's another problem?
It's difficult to see with the radiator top mounting panel in place, also how difficult is this to remove as it looks like electrics are mounted to it.
The way its squirted on the bumper makes me think it's not an actual radiator issue......thanks for any suggestions.
#2
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It's life, Jim, but not as we know it, not as we know it, not as we know it;
it's life, Jim, but not as we know it, not as we know it, Captain.
it's life, Jim, but not as we know it, not as we know it, Captain.
My local radiator guy crimped the parts of the core that were leaking and flushed it and painted it, been all good since (2 1/2 years, 20000 km) including track days.
Probably best to just remove the radiator anyway and give it a check up at your local guy.(unless you just have a leaking hose of course.)
Last edited by o1xjr; 05-31-2018 at 04:17 AM.
#3
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o1xjr (05-31-2018)
#4
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Not at all Jim, but I have electric fans mounted on the radiator instead of the original fan on the water pump. That may get in way if you still have the big plastic fan thingy.
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Daf11e (05-31-2018)
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Daf11e (05-31-2018)
#6
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I took off all wiring and removed cover...
There is one other piece which is stubborn....should it just come off or is there hidden connectors.....don't want to force it if it's connected..
Thanks.
Edit..just checked some pics and think it's part of the. Radiator...anyone know?
There is one other piece which is stubborn....should it just come off or is there hidden connectors.....don't want to force it if it's connected..
Thanks.
Edit..just checked some pics and think it's part of the. Radiator...anyone know?
Last edited by Daf11e; 05-31-2018 at 11:55 PM.
#7
Jim,
That is the radiator frame.
One the same at the bottom.
Those 2 hoses look OK, but they are a leaker.
Sadly, the tinning of the core to the tanks is also a weak point, and age and solder are not a match made in heaven.
Also, check those small pipes across the top, they are just Bundy tube after all.
That is the radiator frame.
One the same at the bottom.
Those 2 hoses look OK, but they are a leaker.
Sadly, the tinning of the core to the tanks is also a weak point, and age and solder are not a match made in heaven.
Also, check those small pipes across the top, they are just Bundy tube after all.
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Daf11e (06-01-2018)
Trending Topics
#8
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Daf11e (06-01-2018)
#9
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#10
Jim,
Some are bolted from underneath, most are simply pins screwed into that frame, and slip through the rubbers in thd chassis crossbeam.
Get a mate to lift it with you, if its lifts up, bonus, otherwise, clamber under and undo those 2 silly bolts, then cut the heads off and make them studs and slip the unit back in when done.
New rubbers, top and bottom will do no harm.
Some are bolted from underneath, most are simply pins screwed into that frame, and slip through the rubbers in thd chassis crossbeam.
Get a mate to lift it with you, if its lifts up, bonus, otherwise, clamber under and undo those 2 silly bolts, then cut the heads off and make them studs and slip the unit back in when done.
New rubbers, top and bottom will do no harm.
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Daf11e (06-01-2018)
#11
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Fought me all the way as one of the bottom bolts stuck hard....came out with bonnet/hood in normal position....huge hole in the core so at shop for a recore. The shop asked me if I wanted the current 3 row or 4 row so I opted for the 4 as it should cool better.
Last edited by Daf11e; 06-04-2018 at 09:25 PM.
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o1xjr (06-05-2018)
#12
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Daf11e (06-05-2018)
#13
Totally unrelated to the issue at hand but relating to Clarkes Star Trek quote.
One of the lines from that song cam up in a flippant exchange between my wife and I. Our visiting millenial daughter has a puzzled look and thought we had missed our meds. We found the whole song on Youtube and played it for her. She dissolved in hysterics, she had never heard it and loves Star Trek :-)
One of the lines from that song cam up in a flippant exchange between my wife and I. Our visiting millenial daughter has a puzzled look and thought we had missed our meds. We found the whole song on Youtube and played it for her. She dissolved in hysterics, she had never heard it and loves Star Trek :-)
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o1xjr (06-06-2018)
#14
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Been cleaning up the the engine bay ready for the new rad and have a couple of questions....
Firstly is there a specific way of bleeding a series 2?..The Rover has a certain way to bleed the coolant and is a bugga.
Secondly when I removed the rad there was some foamy rubber (totally deteriorated) down in the bottom corners....should I replace?...I don't think it's necessary as it should bolt in very firmly.
Firstly is there a specific way of bleeding a series 2?..The Rover has a certain way to bleed the coolant and is a bugga.
Secondly when I removed the rad there was some foamy rubber (totally deteriorated) down in the bottom corners....should I replace?...I don't think it's necessary as it should bolt in very firmly.
Last edited by Daf11e; 06-11-2018 at 09:33 PM.
#15
All my S2 6cyl's were filled the same way.
Both caps off, vac hose pulled from heater tap (this defaults to ON), fill SLOWLY via the top opening, listening for the gurgling as you go.
When fluid dribbles out the header tank spout, cap it, continue the SLOW fill until the top opening is full, cap it, all done.
Start the beast and when its warmed and recooled, replace the vac hose on that tap. Then check the levels when cold.
Foam, NAH.
Both caps off, vac hose pulled from heater tap (this defaults to ON), fill SLOWLY via the top opening, listening for the gurgling as you go.
When fluid dribbles out the header tank spout, cap it, continue the SLOW fill until the top opening is full, cap it, all done.
Start the beast and when its warmed and recooled, replace the vac hose on that tap. Then check the levels when cold.
Foam, NAH.
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Daf11e (06-12-2018)
#16
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Daf11e (06-13-2018)
#18
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All my S2 6cyl's were filled the same way.
Both caps off, vac hose pulled from heater tap (this defaults to ON), fill SLOWLY via the top opening, listening for the gurgling as you go.
When fluid dribbles out the header tank spout, cap it, continue the SLOW fill until the top opening is full, cap it, all done.
Start the beast and when its warmed and recooled, replace the vac hose on that tap. Then check the levels when cold.
Foam, NAH.
Both caps off, vac hose pulled from heater tap (this defaults to ON), fill SLOWLY via the top opening, listening for the gurgling as you go.
When fluid dribbles out the header tank spout, cap it, continue the SLOW fill until the top opening is full, cap it, all done.
Start the beast and when its warmed and recooled, replace the vac hose on that tap. Then check the levels when cold.
Foam, NAH.
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Daf11e (06-22-2018)
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