XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Coolant warning indicator intermittent

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 10, 2022 | 05:10 AM
  #1  
DannyRobertHoward's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 43
From: Sawbridgeworth
Default Coolant warning indicator intermittent

Good day to all, I have an intermittent issue with my coolant warning light. It will come on and go off at random. I replaced the sensor in the reservoir, and fitted a new spade terminal to the connecting cable because it looked a little worse for age. I thought that was the end if the matter, but alas, the fault returned last week.
Mostly, it's off, but still flicks on and off. Has anybody had this problem I wonder?
Regards to you all, Danny.
 
Reply
Old Oct 10, 2022 | 06:43 AM
  #2  
Jose's Avatar
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 2,658
From: Florida
Default

is the coolant level ok?
at what temperature does it do it? engine cold or hot?

 
Reply
Old Oct 10, 2022 | 07:07 AM
  #3  
Doug's Avatar
Veteran Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,526
Likes: 11,718
From: Pacific Northwest USA
Default

Maybe there's a problem with the low coolant transmitter. Can't say I've ever heard of one failing but there's always a first time. Item #5 in this illustration

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

You might try a careful inspect of the sensor wire and/or give it a jiggle test. If there's any broken insulation to allow the strands to touch ground, the light will come on.

Cheers
DD
 
Reply
Old Oct 10, 2022 | 06:58 PM
  #4  
Andy T.'s Avatar
Senior Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 283
Likes: 265
From: Khon Kaen, Thailand
Default

The low coolant sender modules can fail. Mine did. I opened up the case and found that the circuit is quite simple. I changed the IC and transistor and that got it working. To do so, you need to he reasonably proficient at soldering and use a solder-sucker to remove the old solder from the component legs.

By the way, that “sender” in the coolant tank is simply a ground rod. There is nothing to go wrong there!

Meanwhile here is a link to a good value replacement unit, if you don't fancy trying a repair:

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-DRC8562
 

Last edited by Andy T.; Oct 10, 2022 at 09:14 PM.
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2022 | 07:50 AM
  #5  
DannyRobertHoward's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 43
From: Sawbridgeworth
Default

Dear Jose, Doug and Andy, many thanks for helpful replies. I have spent some time today carrying out some basic tests. I tested the resistance between the water level in the expansion tank to ground and it was 1.8meg ohms. So then I read the resistance from the probe and it was the same, so rules out probe fault, but as you say, there is nothing can go wrong with it. Next I traced the white with red tracer back to the multi pin socket behind the battery for continuity, and that was OK. (Rhd car)
I then wiggled that plug, but it is screwed in from inside so it wouldn't move much. Then I started the car and the warning light flickered and the stayed off. So I am thinking that it might just be some corrosion on the pins, but does not seem to be easily accessible.
I would like to examine the module as Andy mentioned, and replace the IC or other components, as I am a television engineer, that job is right up my street. Can I gain access to this module if I remove the liner to the glove box? If this module checks out OK I will then check continuity from the module to the sensor via the multi pin plug / socket, but looks like a devil to access.
thank you once again chaps for your usual fantastic advice. Kindest regards Danny.
or
 

Last edited by DannyRobertHoward; Oct 16, 2022 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Err
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2022 | 08:03 AM
  #6  
Jose's Avatar
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 2,658
From: Florida
Default

Hi Andy,
if you study the S57 Wiring Guide, it should tell you. If you don't have the S57 guide, download it free from my site in PDF format.
https://jagupgrades.webstarts.com
 
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2022 | 08:29 AM
  #7  
Doug's Avatar
Veteran Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,526
Likes: 11,718
From: Pacific Northwest USA
Default

Originally Posted by DannyRobertHoward
I then wiggled that plug, but it is screwed in from inside so it wouldn't move much. Then I started the car and the warning light flickered and the stayed off. So I am thinking that it might just be some corrosion on the pins, but does not seem to be easily accessible.
Awkward, but doable, to access the pass-thru connector.


I would like to examine the module as Andy mentioned, and replace the IC or other components, as I am a television engineer, that job is right up my street. Can I gain access to this module if I remove the liner to the glove box?
Remove the 'knee panel' under the dash; only takes a few minutes. First remove the end cap at the extrame end of the dashbord and then it's just 3 or 4 scrows to remove the knee panel under the dash

Cheers
DD
 
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2022 | 10:31 AM
  #8  
DannyRobertHoward's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 43
From: Sawbridgeworth
Default

Thank you Jose and Doug once more for some more excellent advice. I will report back soon. Regards Danny
 

Last edited by DannyRobertHoward; Oct 16, 2022 at 11:26 AM.
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2022 | 03:39 PM
  #9  
DannyRobertHoward's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 43
From: Sawbridgeworth
Default Problem solved (Hopefully)


Dear Jose, Doug and Andy, an update.
Removing the knee panel under the passenger side of the dashboard was as easy as Doug said it would be.
The tubular sensor unit unclipped and disconnected in a flash and on my bench.
I ran a junior hacksaw around the top and removed the pcb and connecting cables without causing any damage.
I replaced the chip and transistor as Andy suggested but the problem remained. I then removed the four IN 4148 diodes and discovered that one had a very slight leak. Four new diodes were fitted. To test I connected my bench power supply set to 12 volts DC and soldered a temporary 12v 1watt bulb across the transistor output pin and positive.
When power was applied, the bulb lit and stayed on. This is normal because I hadn't yet connected an input from the probe.
I found that a resistance of 47k ohms or lower connected between negative (chassis) and the input pin would switch the bulb off and it remained off all day.
I then removed my test lamp and glued the top back on to the tube with plumbers plastic solvent and it's back in the car working.
So fingers crossed, I am hopeful for a cure, time will tell. I am so grateful for great advice, what a fantastic forum. Kindest regards Danny.
 

Last edited by DannyRobertHoward; Oct 20, 2022 at 04:37 PM.
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2022 | 04:31 PM
  #10  
Jose's Avatar
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 2,658
From: Florida
Default

Danny, congrats! I did not know you had so much electrical diagnostic knowledge. Now I know who to send my module to!
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2022 | 05:32 AM
  #11  
DannyRobertHoward's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 43
From: Sawbridgeworth
Default

Thank you Jose, I actually earned my living as a television and video repair engineer, so this job was a pleasant change from the usual mechanical work on my series 3.I have attached a photograph of the inside of the coolant level transmitter in case it is of interest to anybody in future. Kind regards Danny.

Coolant sensor pcb.

 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2022 | 05:40 AM
  #12  
Andy T.'s Avatar
Senior Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 283
Likes: 265
From: Khon Kaen, Thailand
Default

When working as designed, the warning lamp should flash.

You mentioned “the bulb stayed lit” but perhaps you meant if was flashing on and off?

The CD4011 chip is a quad 2-input NAND gate which is configured to oscillate and make the warning light flash in this application (when the probe in the coolant tank is not immersed in water). It also does one brief flash on power up which is a good bulb check function.
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2022 | 06:13 AM
  #13  
DannyRobertHoward's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 43
From: Sawbridgeworth
Default

In my case the warning light stayed on when there was no or high resistance on the .02uf capacitor. As soon as a resistance of 47k or less was detected, the light was switched off. The warning lamp has never flashed on and off apart from sometimes flickering before staying on.
kind regards Danny.
 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2022 | 06:17 AM
  #14  
Andy T.'s Avatar
Senior Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 283
Likes: 265
From: Khon Kaen, Thailand
Default

Hmm. Sounds like you still have an issue with this circuit then.

Might be worth checking the capacitors. If one has gone leaky or open, the oscillator might not work.

 
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2022 | 06:50 AM
  #15  
DannyRobertHoward's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 228
Likes: 43
From: Sawbridgeworth
Default

Yes it does seem likely this is the case. I did replace the three tantalum capacitors as my first thought. I also cold checked the other caps with my capacitance meter, then read all the resistors and they were spot on. Finally I removed the four diodes and found that one had a very slight reverse leak. I am not going to investigate further unless the fault returns. I appreciate your help Andy, much appreciated. Regards Danny.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dallas Rockford
XF and XFR ( X250 )
6
Sep 14, 2022 07:14 PM
Just Another Guy
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
10
Jun 26, 2022 06:26 PM
Mauricesmith912
XF (X260)
10
Sep 25, 2021 04:35 PM
Yaquiyagua
XJ XJ12 ( X305 )
4
Feb 24, 2014 10:18 AM
kblood
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
1
Dec 15, 2009 07:40 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:14 PM.