Distributor question.
#1
06-13-2016, 01:19 AM
Distributor question.
Don't know if this has been posted before but a quick scan didn't reveal an answer. So here goes.
I have a Series 1 XJ6 4.2 manual that I am in the process of putting a recon series 3 engine in. I have taken the fuel injection equipment off as I'm going to stick with the original SU's. My question is am I able to use the electronic distributor that is on the series 3 motor or do I need to revert to the mechanical one off the series 1 motor?
If I am able to use the electronic one how do I wire it up?
Thanks.
I have a Series 1 XJ6 4.2 manual that I am in the process of putting a recon series 3 engine in. I have taken the fuel injection equipment off as I'm going to stick with the original SU's. My question is am I able to use the electronic distributor that is on the series 3 motor or do I need to revert to the mechanical one off the series 1 motor?
If I am able to use the electronic one how do I wire it up?
Thanks.
#2
06-13-2016, 03:53 AM
#3
06-13-2016, 04:21 AM
OK, took a deep breath.
You will need the "black box" (Amplifier) that goes with the S3 distributor, and the ignition coil.
Mount that box on the inner wing and ensure it has a GOOD earth path via the mounting bolts.
Wire it as follows:
Ign +ve to the +ve of the coil. Same as the old system, NO ballast Resistor, so if you had that before throw it away.
The WHITE wire from the "box" goes to +ve of the coil.
The White/Black stripe wire goes to the -ve of the coil.
The 2 pin plugged wires simply plug into that "box", thus joining the "box" to the distributor. These wires MAY need to lengthened depending where you mount that "box".
The Tacho wire that was on the -ve of the old coil, goes to the -ve of this coil as normal.
You will need the "black box" (Amplifier) that goes with the S3 distributor, and the ignition coil.
Mount that box on the inner wing and ensure it has a GOOD earth path via the mounting bolts.
Wire it as follows:
Ign +ve to the +ve of the coil. Same as the old system, NO ballast Resistor, so if you had that before throw it away.
The WHITE wire from the "box" goes to +ve of the coil.
The White/Black stripe wire goes to the -ve of the coil.
The 2 pin plugged wires simply plug into that "box", thus joining the "box" to the distributor. These wires MAY need to lengthened depending where you mount that "box".
The Tacho wire that was on the -ve of the old coil, goes to the -ve of this coil as normal.
#4
06-13-2016, 06:19 AM
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Ok Graeme, you will just have to scroll through the normal XJ sreies forum chit chat to get to what you need to read.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-153356/page2/
Here you go Grant, saved you some searching.
Grant's write up.
Retro fitting a S3 distributor to earlier engines.
The old points type distributors are getting a long way past their use by date, and parts are near impossible to locate, especially the contact points mounting plate.
The most common and sensible replacement is the electronic unit from the S3 EFI cars.
Fitting is simple enough.
Set the engine at the timing you are running (10deg or such).
Remove the distributor assembly.
They are a “offset peg” drive, so the replacement will go back the same way and should line up as the old did. Just take your time and all will be fine. Slide the replacement in, lock it down, leaving the lock bolt loose enough for movement at a later time.
Fit the HT leads as in the original order, being aware that #1 is at the rear of the engine.
The “Black Box”, needs to be mounted anywhere the attached leads will allow. The S3 had it bolted to the flat front face of the inlet manifold. The non EFI cars do not have this luxury. I have mounted them on the outer face of the same metal bracket that the ignition coil sits behind. Also, I have mounted them on the inner guard, just aft of the power steer pump.
If the 2 leads need to extended to suit your location, so be it, just ensure the extensions are done properly, and well insulated etc.
The ignition coil can be located where the original unit was.
The Ballast, if you have one, is not needed with this system.
Wiring the unit:
There is a unique plug that connects the distributor to the amp box, simple.
There are 2 other wires from the amp, these are connected to the coil. The WB (White/Black) is the coil –ve, the White is the coil +ve.
The wire you currently have on the coil +ve will be used on the coil +ve of the new coil, WITHOUT ballast, so by that I mean a direct 12V when ign is ON.
Some have another lead on the coil –ve, usually a White/Blue Spiral trace. This is the Tacho feed, and will stay the same on the replacement system coil.
If your car has a ballasted system, remove that ballast, and connect the ballast supply wire (12V with ign ON) direct to the coil +ve, and discard all other ballast wires along with the ballast resistor.
I usually run a GOOD earth wire from one of the amp mounting bolts to a chassis ground point that will be nearby, just to be sure.
That’s about all there is.
Start it up, let it warm up, and trim the timing to suit your engine. Bearing in mind these S3 units are designed for an EFI system, and the cam profiles of that engine, so the advance curve of the mechanical section will be different to any carby engine distributor. Most 4.2ltr S2 engines will be just fine. My 3.4ltr S Type needed a tad more retard than the points system, but is was only 2deg, and the benefits of the electronic spark far outweighed the retarding
The old points type distributors are getting a long way past their use by date, and parts are near impossible to locate, especially the contact points mounting plate.
The most common and sensible replacement is the electronic unit from the S3 EFI cars.
Fitting is simple enough.
Set the engine at the timing you are running (10deg or such).
Remove the distributor assembly.
They are a “offset peg” drive, so the replacement will go back the same way and should line up as the old did. Just take your time and all will be fine. Slide the replacement in, lock it down, leaving the lock bolt loose enough for movement at a later time.
Fit the HT leads as in the original order, being aware that #1 is at the rear of the engine.
The “Black Box”, needs to be mounted anywhere the attached leads will allow. The S3 had it bolted to the flat front face of the inlet manifold. The non EFI cars do not have this luxury. I have mounted them on the outer face of the same metal bracket that the ignition coil sits behind. Also, I have mounted them on the inner guard, just aft of the power steer pump.
If the 2 leads need to extended to suit your location, so be it, just ensure the extensions are done properly, and well insulated etc.
The ignition coil can be located where the original unit was.
The Ballast, if you have one, is not needed with this system.
Wiring the unit:
There is a unique plug that connects the distributor to the amp box, simple.
There are 2 other wires from the amp, these are connected to the coil. The WB (White/Black) is the coil –ve, the White is the coil +ve.
The wire you currently have on the coil +ve will be used on the coil +ve of the new coil, WITHOUT ballast, so by that I mean a direct 12V when ign is ON.
Some have another lead on the coil –ve, usually a White/Blue Spiral trace. This is the Tacho feed, and will stay the same on the replacement system coil.
If your car has a ballasted system, remove that ballast, and connect the ballast supply wire (12V with ign ON) direct to the coil +ve, and discard all other ballast wires along with the ballast resistor.
I usually run a GOOD earth wire from one of the amp mounting bolts to a chassis ground point that will be nearby, just to be sure.
That’s about all there is.
Start it up, let it warm up, and trim the timing to suit your engine. Bearing in mind these S3 units are designed for an EFI system, and the cam profiles of that engine, so the advance curve of the mechanical section will be different to any carby engine distributor. Most 4.2ltr S2 engines will be just fine. My 3.4ltr S Type needed a tad more retard than the points system, but is was only 2deg, and the benefits of the electronic spark far outweighed the retarding
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Grant Francis (06-13-2016)
#5
06-13-2016, 06:34 AM
#6
06-13-2016, 08:16 AM
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Good work, by all three of you.
As I remember, dimly, the amplifier is mounted on a "heat sink". a special good is needed to assure heat transfer. Like most electronics, heat is the enemy.
Think function. The point and condenser system used a make and break to build volts in the coil. In this rather neat electronic system, the distributor has a wheel to do the breaks, as signals to the "amplifier" in the tin box. It in turn sends those as volts to the coil .
Inside that tin box is a GM sourced part. Used for a long time in GM critters.
I'd not concern myself with a mere 2 degree retard. Well within tolerances between engines.
Enjoy!
Carl
As I remember, dimly, the amplifier is mounted on a "heat sink". a special good is needed to assure heat transfer. Like most electronics, heat is the enemy.
Think function. The point and condenser system used a make and break to build volts in the coil. In this rather neat electronic system, the distributor has a wheel to do the breaks, as signals to the "amplifier" in the tin box. It in turn sends those as volts to the coil .
Inside that tin box is a GM sourced part. Used for a long time in GM critters.
I'd not concern myself with a mere 2 degree retard. Well within tolerances between engines.
Enjoy!
Carl
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Grant Francis (06-13-2016)
#7
06-13-2016, 02:02 PM
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#8
06-13-2016, 10:02 PM
That GM module does NOT like anymore than 0.8ohms, so a ballast coil will be points spec and about 1.2++ ohms. That module may fry eventually.
They do on the "real engine" if the ohms are too high.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 06-13-2016 at 10:04 PM.
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#10
06-14-2016, 06:02 AM
#11
06-14-2016, 06:44 PM
Senior Member
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#13
06-16-2016, 04:38 AM
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