XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Don't replace it if you can clean it.

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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #1  
Visinedrops's Avatar
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From: Wenatchee, WA
Default Don't replace it if you can clean it.

This is for everyone who has had fuel sender problems in the past.

The fuel sender in the right side tank was not functioning, and I didn't have the money at the time to buy a new sender. I drained the gas, removed the sender, and noticed it was covered with corrosion.

On the sender assembly, there's a little box that houses the electrical parts, and this is also where the float rod enters. There are a few tabs holding the top of the box to the main assembly unit - bend these up. Remember to hold the box together because there's a spring inside.

Carefully remove the housing from the assembly, and find the end of the float rod that protrudes through the back of the assembly. CLEAN THAT!

Using sandpaper, or a Dremel with a fine wire brush attachment, clean all of the metal around the float rod. If you have the ambition, clean the entire thing - just don't disturb the fine wires on the board inside.

After you put it together, keep it out of the tank, and plug the wires in. Watch your fuel gauge as you move the float up and down to ensure that it is working. If so, reassemble your gas tank and continue on with life. If not, you need a new sender.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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great post! i'll keep this in mind if i ever need to mess with the fuel sending unit.i'll say it again, thats why i joined this forum, you guys have great advise!
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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That mantra goes for all things Jag. My most recent forays were relays that had sat for years unused, connections had got corroded, cleaned and worked fine.

Wiper motor, connector looked fine but wiper didn't work, blasted with contact cleaner and the wipers were fine.

Gotta expect on these old 20+ yr old cars that something will need cleaned at some point.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 03:33 PM
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as more issues about limp mode headlight outages and some warning lights would it be wise to suggest that members start at ecm and lightly wire brush or sand paper the pins to a clean without breaking and use di electric spray out residue let air dry while checking voltages. for my 1637 and no headlight problem was that it seems that the correct voltages from the ECM were not being acheived because of heat bulid up and dirt
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 04:27 AM
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You forgot the most importatnt thing.

ALCOHOL.

You need to pre and post toast the event, no matter the outcome.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
You forgot the most importatnt thing.

ALCOHOL.

You need to pre and post toast the event, no matter the outcome.
I second that!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To the extent that I distill my own spirits. Gave me more Jag money
 
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