Don't replace it if you can clean it.
#1
Don't replace it if you can clean it.
This is for everyone who has had fuel sender problems in the past.
The fuel sender in the right side tank was not functioning, and I didn't have the money at the time to buy a new sender. I drained the gas, removed the sender, and noticed it was covered with corrosion.
On the sender assembly, there's a little box that houses the electrical parts, and this is also where the float rod enters. There are a few tabs holding the top of the box to the main assembly unit - bend these up. Remember to hold the box together because there's a spring inside.
Carefully remove the housing from the assembly, and find the end of the float rod that protrudes through the back of the assembly. CLEAN THAT!
Using sandpaper, or a Dremel with a fine wire brush attachment, clean all of the metal around the float rod. If you have the ambition, clean the entire thing - just don't disturb the fine wires on the board inside.
After you put it together, keep it out of the tank, and plug the wires in. Watch your fuel gauge as you move the float up and down to ensure that it is working. If so, reassemble your gas tank and continue on with life. If not, you need a new sender.
The fuel sender in the right side tank was not functioning, and I didn't have the money at the time to buy a new sender. I drained the gas, removed the sender, and noticed it was covered with corrosion.
On the sender assembly, there's a little box that houses the electrical parts, and this is also where the float rod enters. There are a few tabs holding the top of the box to the main assembly unit - bend these up. Remember to hold the box together because there's a spring inside.
Carefully remove the housing from the assembly, and find the end of the float rod that protrudes through the back of the assembly. CLEAN THAT!
Using sandpaper, or a Dremel with a fine wire brush attachment, clean all of the metal around the float rod. If you have the ambition, clean the entire thing - just don't disturb the fine wires on the board inside.
After you put it together, keep it out of the tank, and plug the wires in. Watch your fuel gauge as you move the float up and down to ensure that it is working. If so, reassemble your gas tank and continue on with life. If not, you need a new sender.
#3
That mantra goes for all things Jag. My most recent forays were relays that had sat for years unused, connections had got corroded, cleaned and worked fine.
Wiper motor, connector looked fine but wiper didn't work, blasted with contact cleaner and the wipers were fine.
Gotta expect on these old 20+ yr old cars that something will need cleaned at some point.
Wiper motor, connector looked fine but wiper didn't work, blasted with contact cleaner and the wipers were fine.
Gotta expect on these old 20+ yr old cars that something will need cleaned at some point.
#4
as more issues about limp mode headlight outages and some warning lights would it be wise to suggest that members start at ecm and lightly wire brush or sand paper the pins to a clean without breaking and use di electric spray out residue let air dry while checking voltages. for my 1637 and no headlight problem was that it seems that the correct voltages from the ECM were not being acheived because of heat bulid up and dirt
#5
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#6
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Grant Francis (10-14-2015)
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