Ok so i have a few questions for all the lump pros.

1: Because the th400 with the longer tailshaft is almost the same length as the 700r4, can they utilize the same driveshaft?

2: can i or more importantly SHOULD i reuse my stock driveshaft with these transmissions and with 400+ hp/trq

3: i know a single solid driveshaft would be best, what length should i look for? and which u joints would i need

thanks in advance

 

Get a new one made of one piece up with suggestions from the driveshaft shop about the proper U-joints to use.

I have done this three times with no problems at all.. I prefer the 200R over the 700R due to the better gears in OD and the first to second gear ratio does not lose as much RPM. Have had 700R's in the past - they work OK.

 

Place the engine / trans where it will finally rest, determined by the best exhaust manifold output location. Jack up tail end of trans and measure from flange on trans tail shaft, to face of diff flange where the driveshaft connects to diff.

Have the drive shaft U joint (new) connected to the Jaguar flange that then bolts to the Jag diff.

Get the measurement flange to flange (on my 86 VDP - If I can recall - it was 51.75 or something close to that allowing a bit of play). I am using a 700r4 behind a 350 V8. Make sure everything else is in correct position then have a driveshaft made / balanced / new U joints..

 

Place the engine / trans where on it will finally rest, determined by the best exhaust manifold output location. Jack up tail end of trans and measure from flange on trans tail shaft, to face of diff flange where the driveshaft connects to diff.

Have the drive shaft U joint (new) connected to the Jaguar flange that then bolts to the Jag diff.

Get the measurement flange to flange (on my 86 VDP - If I can recall - it was 51.75 or something close to that allowing a bit of play). I am using a 700r4 behind a 350 V8. Make sure everything else is in correct position then have a driveshaft made / balanced / new U joints..

 

Sunchip,


Roger makes some good points.


I have a single piece shaft with zerkless u-joints (read stronger) - spicer units. Shaft came in my kit from John's cars so I can't be any help with dimension. I'm putting 530 ft lb through at 4500 RPM. Not broke anything yet.


Trans ratios, again to Roger's point, I went a different route, I put a different gear set in a 700 R4 for first and second matching what is in the 200R4. The 700R4 is now billet everything.

 

Clyde


I have seen those new 700R ratios being offered now... they are the way to go if you want that trans... makes it a practical system and great gearing. I took out a GM 400 trans for the new 200R installation, new trans mount and all that was required.


Having the OD/4th gear makes the cars very practical for driving on the freeway at low RPMs.. my car turns 1800+/- at 65-70 MPH with the stock OD tires... I have since changed out my rear end gears for the most economy - 2:88 LSD as all that low RPM torque stills pulls the car well...

My method on the driveshaft - get the engine installed.. measure it per the instructions of the local driveshaft shop - back of the trans - to the flange on the IRS. Have them put on modern HD flanges and U joints... have never had a problem.

Sure would not want a two piece Jaguar driveshaft with lots of torque!

My 383 SBC is a little more "wimpy" and only has 470# torque - but no problems since 2007.

 

Yeah. Zerk equipped ujoints are just fine for most applications.
It is only when brute torque and great traction are combined that
something has to give. Rock crawlers and drag cars meeting that situation can bust 'em.


No good reason to keep the original two piece drive shaft. I've never satisfied myself as to why it was used to begin with. Same for the original Jaguar rear transmission mount.


The driveshaft in my car came with the Johnscar kit. Works just fine.
Zerks? I don't know, haven't been under for a while.


The .70 OD in my car's 4L60E and the original 2.88 Jaguar rear work just fine. My LT1 has tons of torque for a stock engine. LSD would be
nice, but I don't really need it.


An alloy drive shaft would be interesting....


Carl

 

as jagcad mentioned i use an Aluminum single piece driveshaft with HD joints, GM pinion yoke, mated to a set of Jeep R&P,3.73 ratio.

with the stock GM 700R4 truck output shaft yoke.

my 700 is from a GMC Savana Van, 350engine, last yr for cable TV,am told is a HD trans. with a B&M shift kit and shifter.

been 21yrs and many burnout stuff.

altho Jag V12 dont have the torque of good GM V8s, they hold there torque curve much longer in RPM, flat curve.

if i had to i can use OD out to max 6700rpm, 2.60-1 OD ratio!(yikes thats to fast for my ast).

and of course plenty of around town acceleration. i should mention my XJS roadster only weighs in at 3375lbs 1/2 tank fuel, (damn old hot rod influence).

 

so ive found a 200r4 that i might want to use. what is the torque and hp capabilities of the trans? also anyone have notes or tips on rebuilding

 

I have their Stage 3 kit and they have been great to me... trans has been installed since 2007 with zero problems. They really understand the TV cable system and all the needed parts for that cable for any carb or fuel injection system.