XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Easiest way to drop oil pan (1974 XJ6 L)

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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 06:02 PM
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Default Easiest way to drop oil pan (1974 XJ6 L)

I need to drop the oil pan due to a hole in it (see pictures), but I'm debating what would be the easiest way (maybe neither ) dropping the suspension or lift the engine, I'll appreciated you suggestions and guidance.








 
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 07:50 PM
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That looks so nasty. I am not sure there is an easy way. There isn't any clearance to do anything with sump other than lifting / removing the engine. Dropping the front subframe may be another option but do not have experience (yet) with that.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 10:23 PM
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NO easy way.

Either/or, the pain is the same.

I have done it with subframe out on 6cyl and V12, and then engine out on both.

HEAPS of items to remove either way.

The subframe is possibly slightly easier, but you will be working on your back, and that can be painful.

Realigning that sump and front seal is a mongrel at best.

I prefer engine out, then tidy up all those other little niggles whilst its out.
 

Last edited by Grant Francis; Apr 17, 2016 at 03:43 AM.
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Lagonia
That looks so nasty. I am not sure there is an easy way. There isn't any clearance to do anything with sump other than lifting / removing the engine. Dropping the front subframe may be another option but do not have experience (yet) with that.
Dropping the front cross member is NOT ALL THAT BAD!
After raising the car *At Least* 18 inches (that's not hard either) there are only 7 (seven) points of contact (besides steering hoses and a few other bits) and the thing falls out onto the floor, so to speak. (Mine actually had a jack under it.)




The trickiest part is suspending the engine. Harbor Freight sells a tool made specifically for this task, but you have to ask for it as it's not on display. (They sell the jack too)

It's called an Engine Support Bar, and the price is Very reasonable. With this we dropped the whole entire front suspension from under the car and did several other little tasks while I had access.

For a full description look here:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post1232925
(';')
 
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 07:57 AM
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Wowee what went adrift in the sump to punch that hole?


Two issues to fix? The hole and what caused it?


Unpeel, and welds back in place? Replace with a used sand intact sump?


Depending on the cause. Fix in place?


1. If alloy, weld in place with TIG.


2. Make patch, screw in place with RTV as a gasket? Mentioned, not suggested, with a lot of reluctance...


In about 46, when I was messing with my first car, a 23 Ford T,
a school pal was envious. He bought a non runner T. Pretty!!!! Painted in "lovely" pastels. House paint, nonetheless.


On the right side of the block was a neatly screwed on tin patch.
The critter must've thrown a rod. I don't recall if one was replaced
or if it became a three banger. I do recall that we were unable to get it to "bang" at all!!!


Apologies for the gratuitous tale.


Carl
 
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
Wowee what went adrift in the sump to punch that hole?
Two issues to fix? The hole and what caused it?
Good point. My assumption was that an external "influence" caused the punch through the sump. If the sump hole was created by an internal, to the sump, force then you have a nightmare in your hand.

Depending on the cause. Fix in place?
1. If alloy, weld in place with TIG.
The sump is made out of aluminum. I know that for a fact. If you can weld aluminum, that might be an option.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Lagonia
...
The sump is made out of aluminum. I know that for a fact. If you can weld aluminum, that might be an option.
Aluminum can easily be soldered if one keeps the heated solder under oil to keep air from it. I've never tried anything that big though........
(';')
 
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 10:27 AM
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If it were me, i would pull motor, just because you may be doing more than just replacing sump.
The hole looks like whatever caused it was inside as the metal is beveled on outside as if pushed from inside.
Just my two cents, of course i may be totally wrong, it wont be the first or last time!! good luck whichever way you go!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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i think we are looking at the crank journal oil hole, possible rod cap/bolt let go(broke).

so a lot more problems than little hole in pan.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 12:46 PM
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Thank you all for your responses, definitely something from the inside caused that hole in the oil sump and I also believe that what it's shown in the hole is the crank journal, so something broke or got loose inside.
I just purchase this car as it is, assuming that engine was blown ( and I think I guess it right ) but I'm starting to think if something I want to do. lol

I usually work in my cars and I'm not afraid of challenges but I haven't drive this car so I think a connection is missing
 
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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 08:08 AM
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Ismael:


You guessed right. the engine is blown. And, I don't mean "super charged".


Fix will be extensive and expensive. time to shop for a good used 4.2
or SBC!!!!!


Carl
 
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Old Apr 18, 2016 | 07:04 PM
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I guess start looking for another engine is the way to go, you guys agree?
Will an xj6 series III engine fit in my 74 xj6?
Any advise in my search for a good working engine?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 08:00 AM
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Yes and yes.


1. David Boger at everydayxj
2.. Craigs list.
3. Ebay.
4. Local "junk yards".


Don't pass on a conversion to SBC, unless that offends you.


Carl
 
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 09:52 AM
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Carl, conversion might not be a matter of offense, more a matter of practicality and expedience.

Pulling an engine and replacing it with the same type is certainly easier and quicker than making all the mount, plumbing, electrical changes required to replace it with a Completely Different type of power plant. And then logistics need to be considered.

Those of us with conversions Luv them, those of us who have done them (Nix came to me already converted but my Datsun didn't!) *Know* how much work is involved because you can't just reconnect the lines again, fire it up and go.

EDIT: For example, we changed the engine in my work truck over a weekend. I came in from work Friday afternoon and we started, and it was ready again Monday morning with a fresh engine. That simply won't happen with a conversion. /Edit.

Conversion isn't for everyone.
(';')
 

Last edited by LnrB; Apr 19, 2016 at 10:39 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:16 AM
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LnrB:


Agree. But, if one is offended by "lumping", the issues don't count.


Conversions vary in complexity. Installing a carb engine is simplist,
but, in CA, not viable.


With guidance and prep, not really all that bad.


My first "sorta lump". I bought a raggedy ... 40 Ford pickup, sans engine and trans. With much research and trolling, I gathered the parts and it got a 52 transmission and 53 Mercury flat head V8.
All Ford off the shelf parts. Looked awful in badly applied red primer,
But on twin pipes drove and sounded so neat....


It's new late teen owner enamored.....


Carl
 
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 01:25 PM
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Ismael S's Avatar
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No offense Carl, thank you for your suggestion but in my case is not viable, I agree with you Elinor It's more about practicality, it will be awesome to have the V8 in the jaguar but I guess the best way to go for me right now is find another used engine.

Ismael
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 12:57 AM
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I'm still looking for an engine for my car, but if I find another nice looking 74 or 75 XJ6 I will part out this one
 
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