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It looks like you are determined, motivated and have the right attitute to move forward despite the serious adversities that surround you. One *has* to respect that. Keep us posted on your progress. We are here to help and advice since many of us have gone through the same road you are travelling and stumbled on the same pot holes.
1. The crankshaft journals must be measured for ovality and taper.
In my day, we called a bad journal, "flat" crank. If it fails, it may well be junk. Turn down to a smaller diameter, mebbe. Weld up than grind, mebbe. Not in a "tight" budget...
The plugs must be removed and the passages scrubbed and flushed.
A rifle bore brush works well,
Clean mild scoring with sand paper. Not likely, the metal is too hard.
Machinists do polish surfaces, but they use an emery tape. Wrap a strip around the journal and push/pull the ends. Sorta like shinning shoes in olden days. Many a journal has been saved that way.
Don't try this one, it is ancient tech. A school chum and I did it and it worked on a Model A Ford crank and Babbitt bearing. We applied valve lap compound and turned the crank for what seemed forever.
Clean ou worn compound add more, continue to turn. Teen energy nd muscles did a lot. Flushed copiously in tub of gasoline!!!!
Bearings looked great. Journals, clean and mirror like. The engines ran great. Had we not flushed well, the stuff would have raised h...
I could come up with a method for an insert engine. But, will not. too risky. Safer means available. Sure am curious,. though.
2. The bores. More measurements for taper and ovality. One can stretch limits here a tad. Clue, Is there a deep ridge at the top. Carbon, no harm if dealt with. Use a special tool to remove it. that tool can remove or reduce a steel ridge.
Failure to deal with t can bust rings on the install.
Hone the glaze off. Economical "glaze busters" available. Failure will mean no seating of the rings, and a smoker and oil burner....
The right way is a power hone with measured strokes in a tank and flooded with cutting oil That is the way to get the neat cross hatch pattern.
3. Pistons. Used ones are almost guaranteed to have changed shape. Sorta usable if the ring grooves are unbusted. These grooves must be scraped clean. They might be too wide, by wear. Old tech called for spacers to make up for it. Worked, sorta. What was a useless old tech endeavor was to "knurl" the skirts of 'collapsed pistons. Ok for a very few miles. Then the raised metal wore away and the slap was back.
contrary to some, a degree of slap is annoying yet harmless.
Well, the pins are probably sloppy. Fix? More $'s. Risk. If very loose, a decided double knock!!! Will they fail in a catastrophe, unlikely, but possible. What will you tolerate??? And, that risk thing vs more $'s.
A decade or so, my son bought a one ton flat bed Ford of mid 60's vintage. Very well used. But, powered by Ford's extremely durable "Y" block 292 V8. Caveat, ran fairly well, but almost no OP!!! I suggested n in the frame bearing job. Son, a talented fabricator and machinist
resisted, but did it. Did the journal polish thing. New inserts for mains and rods. Fired up. Decent OP. Last we heard, it was on a pal's ranch doing ranch truck work> Hay hauling for the critters....
I had no tools, no experience and a very tight budget. This car is still here waiting for the right time and you know I have the intention to fix the car, I just don't want to do it here.
I spent money on the head because I could not have known the block was bad. I found the scrapings the second time I took the head off. If those scrapings weren't there I would have switched the exhaust valve for one from my spare cilinder head and I would be on the road again.
But that isn't the case. My engine had to be replaced and Han gave me the second engine with brand new pistons, just no good crankshaft. It would have been easy if my crankshaft wasn't ALSO bad. That brings us here. It's not my fault after all this I'm still stuck with trash. I did the best I could, but the best wasn't good enough. After all I did learn from this a lesson I will never forget: Meten = weten.
The XJ6 not driving anymore is not my fault.
It hasn't faded away, it's still in the same spot where I parked it just before I cut up the rear arches. It's a job I take my time for because I want to do it properly. The panels are first cut with centimeters to spare. From there it's all hand tools. The left side fit's almost perfectly after 10 hours of scraping off metal from the edges and bending. The right side is done inbetween welding of the left side.
And, because the right front fender was very bad aswell I decided to take both off. I scraped a lot of undercoating and found some spots, treated them, then put a new layer of undercoating.
I take my time for this. I don't need the car, it's not like I ruïned it and don't know how to put it back together and it's not abandoned either.
I haven't done anything with my cars other than repairing them for the past month or two. There is only so much you can do when it's freezing. In the summer I'll probably work a lot more.
We live very close and I know this is not an attack. A lot of people here just say what they think. Some people appreciate it, others don't. I'll hang it on my wall because it motivates me to prove you wrong. Same goes for Ko, he made a fool out of me but thankfully got banned for it. When the XJ12 is done I REALLY want to hear what he has to say. Probably nothing.
Will get the 80.000km engine because it's the cheaper and better choice, not because I can't fix what's on my workbench right now. I made a deal with someone who wants to buy one engine for decoration, so it will just cost me to take out that good engine and bring it back home.
So, thank you. I appreciate your input and intention to help me out. If all goes according to plan I'll be on the road again soon.
Prove me wrong, and I'll be happy to admit it. Good luck getting the car back on the road.
I promised to keep you updated. Well, I acquired a donor vehicle. The compression is exactly 150PSI on every cilinder, the valve clearance is spot on and the valve seats were hardened, the oil pressure is always, even when stationary, at least 2 bar, the IRS was rebuilt 4 years ago, the exhaust is stainless steel and there is a big stack of bills with the car. Just today I took off the front wheels and I was so excited, the whole car is maintained very well and the best thing is I don't have to pay for the rebuilds of the subframes.
So, it sat for 6 months and drove it right out of the barn straight to home. The airconditioning works, the cruise control, it's all so incredibly silent and the comfort is great. When I drove my series 1 I had a ripped off exhaust and conversation was nearly impossible. The heater was broken and always on so I had to have the windows down, the seats were all so worn just thinking about it gave me backache. Man, when this car is done it will be great.
But, I'm affraid I will have to modify the exhaust. I'm thinking straight pipe. I met someone with a XK120 and, as you all know, the XK120 has a 3,4 version of my engine. He had 2 straight pipes with exhaust mufflers from a motorcycle. That sounded pretty good. I don't want it to be too extreme, I know it's not an E-type, but the silence is not really my thing, maybe when I'm older.
I attached pictures. Just to clarify this car isn't all sunshine. The left side is the good side of the car, the right side has a rotten fender and the sill-cover-area is beginning to rot. Around the windows too. The transmission is not 100%. I will see if I can fix the whining noise with my other BW66 that came with the car, otherwiser Ill have to find a new one. I wouldn't want the engine to break because something weird happened in the transmission. Sorry to the experts, I don't know much about automatic gearboxes.
Me too! I have another set under the XJ12. I got them for free because they were so corroded. I spent a lot of time getting rid of the corrosion then painted about 5 layers with very cheap paint. They still look ok a year later for only ~€20.
02-17-2016, 11:56 AM
