hi all, i have done a few quick searches and cant find anything on the following.

A. is it possible to replace the sump gasket by just lifting the engine off its mounts and slipping it in or do you need to remove the engine to get the clearence. looks like a pig of a job either way.

B. my tranny appears to have a small leak around the plate on the front left side of the transmission. can you still get seals / gaskets, and what is this plate for. it has a shaft that is cut and threaded as if it were a selector shaft but has nothing connected. maybe kick down or something?

C. my exhaust tappet buckets sit about 5mm out of the casting, ie not flat with the bottom of the rocker casting. this appears to be normal as they are all appropriately the same distances but i cant see well enough down there to determine if it is or not. my eyesight isnt all that great without glasses lol.

ive ordered a revised factory / workshop manual but in the mean time these are my few questions.
thanks allot,
regards jay

 

It's been some time since I've worked on the XK engine, but due to the shape of the sump, if you're trying to work on the gaskets, oil pump or pick up, it's simpler to support the engine/gearbox from above and lower the front subframe and suspension after removing the steering shaft coupler. Even with bleeding the brakes, it's still easier than attempting to raise the engine far enough.

With regard to the tappet guides, there is about 5mm of the top of the guide that stands proud of the casting, so you may want to install a tappet guide 'stake-down' kit of some sort. I'm not sure if the XJ6 was encumbered with so many emissions devices in your market where it ran at an operating temperature well beyond its initial design parameters. North American vehicles have a thermostat with an 87 C open setting, but I believe something along the lines of 82 C is more appropriate so there are no difficulties with the tappet guides.

I'm really taxing my memory here, but I believe the shaft on the LH side of the gearbox you're referring to is where the neutral start switch connects. There should be a threaded hole close to the top of the shaft where the slotted opening in the switch bolts to the gearbox casting. A three-pronged plug should be also close at hand to connect to the switch.

NBCat

 

thanks for that, i realised later i meant the right side lol.

ill defiantly have to have a look at dropping the subframe. is it a day job or what?

we dont have the cats in aus on the 82 model at least (at least i dont, tho my 89 car does so it was mandatory by then). but it does have the gas recirculation. no air blower. so it may well run a bit cooler anyway.

also is it leaded or unleaded?

thanks
regards jay

 

[quote=aussie_ser3;475411]thanks for that, i realised later i meant the right side lol.

ill defiantly have to have a look at dropping the subframe. is it a day job or what?

we dont have the cats in aus on the 82 model at least (at least i dont, tho my 89 car does so it was mandatory by then). but it does have the gas recirculation. no air blower. so it may well run a bit cooler anyway.

also is it leaded or unleaded?

Jay,

The subframe job is a good days work if you know what to undo, which spanner to grab, etc etc. i would plan on at LEAST 2 good days, with a lot of luck on your side. DO NOT forget to REMOVE the front shockers, TOTALLY, coz they will bend if you only release the tops mounts. Been there done that, bugga.

Unleaded, and ONLY use 98, NO exceptions. It will run cooler and generally better all round. I steer clear of Ethanol, coz we dont have much here, you may not be so fortunate.