I will start this thread... now all the How to input will have a proper place.

 

I will help out - Thanks Roger.

The Low Budget method that works great .

Every Jag / FI system combo will be a bit different to some extent.

I have quite a bit of info stored on my computer which I will be happy to share. However most of it, does have to do with installing a 350 GM engine /4l60 (700r4) trans and using a GM factory TBI injection system, into a 1986 Jaguar XJ6 VDP. If something is wrong / does not make sense let me know.

The ECM I used was a GM 1227747 with a ASDU chip as found on 1990 -91 350 V8 engines. ** A 1227747 does not have VATS - one less thing to worry about or spend money on. It is a TBI system as found on many different vehicles. Any good 1227747 will work but you need the correct chip. I used an ECM from an Astro van with a 4.3 engine and simply opened it up and replaced the chip with a V8 (350) ASDU chip..The harness I used, also came from an Astro van (pull a Part - dirt cheap) ( $ 25.00) At this point I had about 65 bucks into it. ECM,..harness,..chip.
Transmission (4l60) also came from an Astro van. Astro vans are about the same weight and the diff ratio is close to the Jag 2.88.
Note: the logic in doing this is, it is possible to install a GM V8 into an Astro van using everything the van has with the exception of having the wrong chip, so get the proper chip from a V8 (ASDU) label on it. Use the TBI set up but change the injector pods to 350 injectors. (Astro/Safari website - v8 swap section)

These ECMs are so plentiful and there is so much info on the internet... Its an early version of GM FI so if you want the latest whiz bang stuff with a faster baud rate...it ain't here.

I found that there are 2 areas to be addressed with regards to "constant 12V + power" and "switched 12V + power.

Constant Power = Orange wire ||| battery / fuse / to ECM terminal - ECM terminals B1 and C16 .
- maintains all memory info. If connected to 12V+ Batt then to the ECM terminals it is on. This is the LAST item to be connected.

Switched Power = Pink/Black wire ||| From " ignition " relay to ECM terminal A6
- this circuit is activated when ignition key is in START or RUN. Turns on ECM when starting engine.

That is it for starters.. Alyn

If there is an interest from anyone ...

 

My GM 1227747 and harness came out of a CHEVY Van with a 350 motor, so I would assume that the ASDU Chip will be correct. As it stands I have 2 TBI units but I am not sure whether they were from a 305 or a 350. I will have to remove the injectors from each one and verify same. I was unable to remove the sensors from the vehicle because they were missing.

Option 1: Do the conversion as a EFI standalone, with the big HEI Distributor.
Option 2: Do the conversion complete with the small Distributor with ESC/EST.
I have both distributors.
@Alyn: My question to you is: Rather that remove each wire from the ECM connectors A;B;C;D; Wouldn't it be easier to identify the wires that I will be using and TAG them rather than remove them and have to put them back in the same terminal?
For example, I have the wires from the ECM to some of the sensors identified, separated I have the IGN and Fuel Pump relay identified and tagged and of course the ones to the fuel injectors.
I do happen to have a complete GM terminal kit with the terminals, crimp tool and the tool for removing the terminals from the connectors, so I have no problem removing them.
My logic says that if I am going to remove a wire from let's say Terminal A6 and have to put it back in Terminal A6, Why remove it?
Given that some of the inputs/outputs are spliced together,
I JUST NEED SOME CLARITY, I AM NOT BEING LAZY
What's your logic behind tagging and removing all of the wiring from the ECM terminals??

 

Sanchez,

My reasoning is twp fold 1. once you get all the wires unraveled , you will find that everything is not so "straight ahead" some wires are connected to other wire within the loom ans intertwined.. 2 If you remove the individual wires from the ECM for each circuit you will ultimately find it a lot simpler in the long run and when you start to feed the wires into the cabin you can feed a complete circuit per sensor into the cabin for connection to the plugs that plug into the ECM.

Do you have any wiring diagrams for either car?

Have you planned what Jag wiring to keep and where you are going to make the splices and connect relays? HAve you cut any yet?


Alyn

 

I have the wiring diagrams for both the Jag and the GM
I got a detailed one for the 1227747 from the "Gearhead EFI forum. I am a member there.
icsamerica also gave me a link for the same.
When I removed the wiring loom I saw the splices, and was advised to leave them alone, tape and all. I have identified most of the wiring, and tagged them. I have not cut any wires. I did have to cut the ALDL wires off the donor vehicle (about 18 inches) and I do not have the complete wiring to go to the transmission. I cut them back as far as I could have from the donor.That will have to be spliced in.
Given that I will have a lot of space in the engine compartment, I am looking at installing a 1998 Eldorado Airbox complete with snorkel
(I have a spare one) to install the ECM within the engine bay. This will also serve as my air filter. The only wires going into the car will be ignition 12volts(this I can even splice in the engine bay) and the diagnostic connector going in depending on which side I mount the airbox. This is all wishful thinking at this time. I need to get the engine installed first to determine this.
I am in the process of getting an engine stand made to mount the engine and cooling system, and get the engine running with the EFI System before I put it in the car.
Why? Series 3 to be converted in storage due to lack of space.
2 car garage and 5 running vehicles. With 2 cars in the garage I still have enough room to work on the engine if it is on a stand.
STUPID RULES
My subdivision will not allow me to park an unregistered vehicle in my driveway.
if I am working on the front or rear of my car, it cannot be facing the street. I overcome that by working at night.

 

Firstly...why FI lump a Jaguar?

Replacing a V12 or I6 Jaguar engine has many advantages. Lower costs in the long run, increased reliability, much greater performance, greater fuel economy, better handling because of weight reduction and availability of parts.


My formula for a low cost FI & successful lump...

Use a donor vehicle and have it at hand if possible so you can test drive it and make sure the power train works before the transplant. For simplicity make sure the donor is OBD1 (pre-1996). There are many small and hard to find items like brackets, clamps, pumps, relays, fittings, tanks, filters, hoses that can be reused from the donor vehicle. For the best results and drive-abilty results use the transmission that came with the car and consider the whole thing as a power train package and think of the process as transplanting the Jag body on to your donor vehicle.

For example, if you want TPI start with a vehicle that had tpi...89 and later corvette, camaro and firebird are still common. Same the with TBI.

Good low cost donor vehicles include... Most GM vehicles from the early 90's. Cars, trucks and especially the 94 to 95 LT1 from a camaro, fleetwood, impalla, or roadmaster. The LT1's are the smoothest OBD1 engines GM ever made and they rival the V12 for smoothness and power. As a good rule of thumb, stay away from anything that has a R4 A/C compressor. They are useless and there abandonment by GM is co-terminus with when GM quality vastly improved in so many ways

Good premium lumps include any LS engine that your budget allow.

In either case I strongly recommend a new stand alone engine wiring harness if your budget allows. A pulled engine with the proper ready to run after market harness and GM ECM / PCM can be up and running in a matter of hours. And they are not pricey, especially if you already have the ECM / PCM from your donor. There are many vendor and experts that sell "ready to run" harness kits.

If you want to stay all Jaguar...the AJ6 inline 6 from a clapped out XJS is far easier to do than any GM lump. So much so, I'm surprised its not done more often. The XJS and XJ share many dimensions and most of the hoses, harnesses and ancillaries are a simple bolt in.

Things to consider that are more difficult than one might expect

Power steering hose and their fitting can be fidley. It's best to find a local hydraulic hose company and get their assistance. If you do you will end up with a simple hose with the correct fitting on both ends. This is where having the donor vehicle can use useful. You can use the donor vehicles PS pump hose end as a good start. You probably will end up with a SAE fitting one one end and a Metric on on the other.

A/C hoses also can be tricky. Same idea, having the donor vehicles hoses and remaking them is a good way to solve the issue.

Most GM PCM / ECM's output a speedometer signal that is compatible with series 3 speedometers. If you have a Series 2 it's best to convert to a Series 3 gauge package. The ECM / PCM can be reprogrammed to indicate the correct speed. This is the best approach because you can avoid the expense and complication of a signal converter. Most of all...the ECM / PCM will know the actual vehicle speed and will adjust the TCC and overrun fuel cutoff for the best driveability.

Things to consider that are easier than one might expect

The drive shaft. Install the engine and transmission, measure and simply call a driveshaft company and have it made.
Transmission linkage, The jag shifter is roughly the same as GM's so the shifter bracket in all the conversion kits is a simply bolt on.


Lump hardware

I prefer the kits from Jaguar specialties and Sun Coast conversions. I now make my own engine mount brackets based on the fluid filled XJ8 engine mounts. Noticeably smoother than the early GM items.

What not to do...

Dont try to build a performance lump your first time out unless your have experience. Headers, governor changes and other performance related items are difficult to pull off well for the first timer in the Jag chassis.

Dont Rush. Doing it right takes time...lots of time.

Dont paint your car first.

Dont run out of money and take short cuts. There are no short cuts and the price of your donor vehicle and adapter kits is probably less than 1/2 of what you will need to pull off a proper lump.

Dont sell your lump, do it right and enjoy it. No one will pay you more than it costs...unless its exceptional and special job with lots of time invested.

All this comes from experience. I've done many swaps including ones with ABS and traction control and I use no-longer use cumbersome and sloppy electrical converter boxes or any sort of adapter fittings. If done right and planned properly, they are not needed. It's possible to have a reliable Series 1/2/3 with 500 HP, globs or torque, ABS, traction control, ice cold A/C and a smooth idle if one desires that.

 

The Jaguar Speedometer circuit (cruise control, interface, interval counter, speedo, etc.) needs an 8000 PPM signal as put out by the Jag transducer. The GM ECM/PCM is looking for a 4000 (TBI - 2000 PPM) signal from the VSS). OBD 1 (On Board Diagnostic version 1 )
GM used a VSS buffer on some applications to achieve the proper signal for the various diff ratios that might be used ...can be calibrated or use a Dakota digital (SG-5?) magic box.
These can be used when the trans output comes from a reluctor wheel on the trans main shaft rather than a mechanical gearset for speedo output. Also the speedo will not read correctly unless the trans output is the same as the Jaguar trans (old BW 66) was,... .447.
SO you will need an 8000 PPM signal for the Jag speedo circuit stuff, and a 2000 or 4000 PPM for the GM ECM/PCM. to make it all work well.
Question ...How many people with Jag conversions have a speedo that reads correctly?

**One other non related area to keep an eye on is ,..what ECM/PCM are you using and does it have a stand alone ESC with knock sensor or, (as in later units) does the ECM/PCM have that function already coded into the chip?

 

All great stuff. I did choose an after market harness. Not so good.
Less than adequate instructions and three major errors.


1. Power wires black signifying ground. Wrong!!!
2. Wires on the wrong pins in one O2 sensor connector.
3. One wire at the EGR connector not seated properly.


Good intentions and tried via long distance to guide me to make the corrections.


I'll not ID him. Retired with major health issues.


A friendly but expensive local tech found those issues and fixed them.
He and his boss impressed with the proper performance of the LT1 in the Jaguar. Boss sold the shop. Health issues!!


My interpretations:


1. A rack under the VIN panel for the relays.
2. A ground buss alongside.
3. PCM suspended from the wing braces.
4. Fabbed PS reservoir mount on the right wing wall.
5. Studs and Nylocks to mount needed additions.
6. I used a double flared connector to join the Jaguar to GM
high pressure PS lines.
7. I used an after market twin Efans probably intended for
a Fox bodied 3032 powered Mustang. Son gave it to me.
An all weather connector allows the GM PCM to control them.
8. Busted cam to water pump connector a big deal. Solved by using
a Meziere electric water pump. Inadvertent sophistication.


Sure have learned a lot!!!


Carl

 

Carl you added another feature of using a "reworked" ( = strip out all the redundant wires you will not need) factory harness,... that is the wires will be all of the correct colors and match the factory colors for the individual circuits. If an Astro van was sitting in front of me, I will bet I could strip the harness from the vehicle, and remove all the wires that I will keep (some may have to be shortened - no biggie.. if you can solder) and have them ready for re use (by circuit) within a few hours. Plug the correct end onto its respective sensor and feed the ECM end to where the ECM is located on the vehicle and insert it into the proper pin on the ECM plug. Cut,solder, tape as needed. After much screwing around I find removing and isolating each circuit ,...then installing them individually, to be the easiest in the long run and most accurate.....less trouble shooting.
I would also recommend installing an AUX fuse box. Here is what I am using. A fuse box from a mid 90s GM puddle jumper. Has relays and fuses for the circuits . Again cheap at Pull a Part.

Note: the aux box colors are not factory color coded - they are just my notes to my self, and the aux box currently a work in progress.

 

Alyn:


Agree. Had I known what I now know, that is where I would go.


Carl

 

Just dropped by my favorite JY and snagged a set of aluminum serpentine brackets for small block Chev $40.00 and 1 hours work to strip them off a 1988 Camaro 305 TBI.. can not beat that....These places are a gold mine.

Last year I bought all 4 interior door panels including arm rests and door pockets with mirror controls, from a pristine '86 XJ6 VDP along with a set of long hair factory floor rugs (VDP original equipment) for $ 65.00 Bonus was they were the same color as my car ,..Doeskin. If you have a few bucks to spend on your velocipede and are handy with tools. If not contact Dave Boger .

 

So, I have been working on my GM harness and have most of the circuitry identified and tagged.
Alyn, I have also found the constant 12 volt and switched 12 at the terminals you mentioned.
Tomorrow, I will be sorting the wires to connect to the ALDL.
I also have to sort out the EST/ESC circuits, and whether I will have to install a Knock sensor.
Sometime next week I will be purchasing the sensors I need, and the plan is to wire the engine/ECM and fire it up on an engine stand before I put it in the car.
At that point, I will start to figure out what wires will be connected to the Jaguar harness.

 

Sanchez hope this helps

Part numbers of interest
Part Description Part #
TBI ECM 1227747 BCC ASDU: 1227747
Heated O-Sensor 4-wire: 25312184; AFS75
TBI Overhall Kit: CK1081
Injectors (350) Orange Black: 17112493; 217-344; 5235206
Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS): 12146312; 25036979
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): 12116257; 17111787; 17111471
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP): 16137039; 2131545; 16017460; PS10076
Idle Air Control Valve (IAC): 17111460; 25527077; AC102
EGR Control Solenoid: 1997111?; EVS30; 17112193
VSS (from JTR): 2PRS
Knock Sensor (350): 10456288; SU154
Engine Spark Control Module (ESC): 16128261; 16131231

I think you will need a knock sensor . When it hears knocks, it sends a signal to the ESC (electronic spark control) and the computer retardds the spark - a mini system.

I would use all the stuff listed above

So to start out we will go right down the line in order.

A1- grn/wht- this wire is used to energize the fuel pump relay.
A2- not used
A3- not used
A4- gry- to EGR relay.(optional) This is a ground from the ECM to control the EGR relay.
A5- brn/wht- SES(service eng soon) light. This is a ground to turn on the light.
A6- pnk/blk- switched 12v from the ignition relay.
A7- TC lock up
A8- orn- ALDL Serial data. This is your ALDL pin E data for your lap top.
A9- wht/blk- ALDL pin B diag mode. When jumpered to ground will set the ECM to ALDL diagnostic mode.
A10- brn- VSS speed sensor signal to the ECM (optional)
A11- ppl or blk- MAP sensor ground.
A12- blk/wht- System ground. Can be tied with D1. Goes to engine ground.

Just to clear the confusion on which pins are grounds I have taken a C3 ECM apart and labeled the pin locations on the plugs.
If you look you can see that D1 and D2 are solder connected and A11 and A12 are also connected.
So if either one of the two, example: D1 and A11 are grounded the other one will be. D2 and A12.

SEE PIC BELOW


B1- orn- 12v fused from battery. I use an inline fuse on this. It also ties into C16.
B2- tan/wht- Fuel pump signal from the relay. This one ties into several places, the fuel pump, the relay, and the ecm. When the relay is on it sends 12v thru this wire to turn on the fuel pump, at the same time it tells the ECM the fuel pump is on.
B3- blk/red- EST reference.
B4- not used
B5- ppl/wht- EST high reference
B6- not used
B7- blk- ESC signal This is the knock sensor signal to the ECM. The knock sensor circuit is optional. If not used, tie this wire to C14 the 5v reference. This will fool the system sometimes but you will need to program the chip to prevent the SES light from coming on.
B8- dk grn- AC signal. This tells the ECM that the AC is turned on. This can be used to set the idle speed higher when you turn the AC on. I use it to increase the idle when using the compressor for on board air. Same thing!! Just tie it to the wire going to the AC clutch.
B9- not used
B10-orn/blk- Park/Neutral sw. This is optional but I have hooked it into the park sw on the tranny. It tells the ECM when you are in Pk or N. It can be used to give a slight adjustment to idle speed when switching from park to drive and back.
B11- not used
B12- not used

C1- not used
C2- not used
C3- IAC- Idle air control
C4- IAC
C5- IAC
C6- IAC -The ECM controls the IAC motor. It adjust the amount of air that is bypassed around the butterflies to adjust the idle speed.
Note: (For the IAC pins C5 and C6 are reversed on the 454 vs the SBC so swap those 2 pins if using a 454 TB with the bolt on IAC.)

C7- not used
C8- not used
C9- ppl/wht- Starter crank signal. Goes to the small terminal of the starter. The stock scout wire is white that goes there. Tells the ECM you are trying to start the engine.
C10- yel- Temp sender signal
C11- lt grn- Map sensor signal
C12- (1228746 only) IAT/MAT sensor
C13- dk blu- TPS sensor signal
C14- gry- 5v reference signal to map and TPS.
C15- grn- inj B ground signal. Most systems do not use this. It was used on some of the bigger engines to share the load of the injector signal.
C16- orn- fused 12v tied to B1

D1- blk/wht- System ground, ties to A12 and engine.
D2- blk- Sensor ground. To eng block or head.
D3- not used
D4- wht- EST control
D5- tan/blk- EST bypass. This is the wire that has a plug near the distr that you disconnect to set your timing.
D6- Tan- O2 ground to engine.
D7- ppl- O2 sensor signal
D8- D13 not used
D14- lt grn- Injector B ground signal
D15- blu- optional injector A ground signal
D16- blu- Injector A ground signal

And that's it.
If you sit down on your garage floor and have each sensor plugged into the harness, then trace each wire back to the ECM connector, you will be able to separate a lot of uneeded wires.
Once you have each wire identified and layed out, then you can set it up on the engine and start tailoring it to fit your engine.
Placement of the sensors will determine wire length. Most stock harnesses are plenty long and only need to be shortened or wrapped and bundled.
When I'm all done and it's running then I go back and reinstall the plastic loom over all the harness.

"What wires will be connected to Jag haness"

I used the thick white from Inertia switch that used to go to the original Jag MAIN relay, and connected it to a new relay. # 86
On that same relay (terminal #87) I connected the ECM pin A6 (turns on the ECM when ignition switch is in RUN/START)
I used the JAGUAR green/white wire, that went to Jag fuel pump and connected it to the GM fuel pump relay (a part of the GM harness)
Constant 12V power connected from Battery12V,.. to a FUSE,.. to the ECM B1 and C16 and oil pressure switch.

Good info on "Andrew's " Jaguar Specialties site regarding Check engine light (SES) and Brake pedal status for TC lockup.

Just be careful and do not cut the entire Jag harness you need that one original Green/white Jag wire that goes to F.P in boot. just connect it to the new TBI fuel pump 12-15 lbs pressure .

The pin out info above is not mine I found it long ago when researching the TBI install. But it is good for reference. Example pin A7 IS USED ,...its for TC lockup you need that..... for VSS I used a pass through unit from JTR $ 75 or so ( 2000 PPM model works with 1227747 ECM ) has 2 wires ...one for ground and one to pin on ECM.

 

I should be getting my engine test stand sometime this weekend. I had it custom fabricated so I could test any engine on it. It will be able to disassemble for storage. I will post some pics when I pick it up.
I will be putting the GM 350 engine on the test stand and wiring it up to get it to run. I am not going to cut any of the wires at this point in time.
My plan is to hook up the basic wiring and the ECM to the engine; the cooling system; fuel and a battery and get the engine to run, then eliminate the parts of the harness I would not need.
I have purchased all of the sensors.
The two TBI units I got have the 305 injectors so I will be visiting the JY's to locate some 350 injectors or if I have to, purchase new ones.
Until then, I am keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Look at GM trucks and vans with 350 engines,... the last 4 numbers that are stamped on the top of the injectors are xxx 5206

 

Sanchez ... that is why I suggested removing each Circuit from the harness and labeling it separately,, may seem like a lot of work (its not) but you end up with each circuit connected to its sensor and the proper pin on the ECM plug. The trick is using a very small tool to release the catch on the wire ends,...once you do one and get the hang of it ,..it goes quite quickly.

Then clean the wires and cut to size for you application tape them together by circuit,..

I have 3 complete harnesses completely disassembled by circuit and labelled...becomes a simple plug and play to build a simple harness.

 

Look at GM trucks and vans with 350 engines,... the last 4 numbers that are stamped on the top of the injectors are xxx 5206

 

When I removed the original LT1 and 4L60 e harness from my
donor engine, I recall being a bit concerned as to getting things back right. But, each connector was just a bit different. Assured me a lot.


And, despite it's short comings, the after market "custom" harness stayed true to wire colors and of course to connectors.


I did most of it with engine on the shop floor. More room than in the car.


It did include two generic blade fuse boxes paired together, in lie of a GM unit with "extra" slots.


What to do with the relays was left open. I made a rack to extend the Jaguar one. Revised twice. Each time a bit better.


I sold the GM harness. for a "C" note to a guy to build a simple harness for a simpler car. I saw it and the engine for sale on Craigs list. Nice work. I suppose life got in the way of that project...


Carl

 

In the course of looking for something else, I came across one of the best books (in my collection) called "Chevrolet TPI & TBI Engine Swapping" which can be extremely helpful for those wishing to replace the Jag engine with a GM V8. and trans.

Covers engine, trans, wiring, cooling, A/C, VSS, Exhaust, etc.
I think its about $ 25 - 30 USD and well worth the price. So much really good info that can save you a lot of time and money. One of those instances where this is really "as good as advertised"

The book is available through JTR and written by Mike Knell, a guy with lots of " hands on " engine swapping experience. What to do and why to do it...

 

I have put my powertrain conversion on the back burner for now. I am focused on doing the front and rear suspension, brakes, bushings etc. Once that is done, I am going to disassemble the car for paint.