Are the tanks on a 83 XJ6 connected in any way apart from the main fuel lines to the pump?
I am asking as i had to drain the unused left tank & would like to leave the drain bung out to help it dry out better.

 

Nope.

Well, they share a venting and vapor recovery system....but that has no bearing on your plan.

The main feed line from each tank goes to the changeover valve. The changeover valve feeds the pump.

It isn't unusual to leave one tank out of the loop for repairs.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug,
The left tank was out of commission when i bought the car & was on my to do list to sort out.
Just happened that i had to do it sooner rather than later.

 

If you are going to leave the drain completely open, you'll want to be certain to totally isolate the tanks from each other.
In addition to the supply lines in the boot, you'll need to make sure that no fuel can return to the tank via the return line in the wheel wells.
In the boot it's easy enough to do just by bypassing the changeover and pull directly from the tank.
The return is a little more difficult.. You'll have to make sure the tank that you are using's return line is permanently open, and the one that you aren't using is plugged.
Otherwise, you run the chance of a faulty return solenoid either dumping into the wrong (open) tank, or creating a situation where the tanks are both closed and return fuel has no where to go > dangerous!!

Cheers
David
shop.everydayxj.com

 

Agree !!!


David's necropsy of an S3 has been so invaluable.


Carl

 

Thanks Carl!

One thing I didn't mention last night is that when using the right tank only, it's especially important to make sure the RHS return solenoid is permanently opened... whether by removing the solenoid all together and running a pipe in there, or whatever..
This is important on the RHS because that valve's "natural state" is normally closed until power is supplied via the dash switch..
If the solenoid in the boot is bypassed, and the RHS tank is connected directly to the tank.... and the Dash switch would accidentally be changed to the LHS (either by pressing the switch, switch failure, or electrical fault), the RHS return solenoid would close (and the left would open)...
If you are going to pull from the right only.. do away with the return solenoid....

Cheers
David
shop.everydayxj.com

 

Thanks for that David. What i am actually going to do eventually is run both tanks in tandem with a T-piece & non-return valves in each fuel delivery line. Before i can do that i have to make sure the tank is usable. I know it doesn't leak but want to make sure it's not overly rusty inside. Just waiting on a mate to turn up with his you beaut inspection camera to have a look inside it.

 

Rickxj6:


Aw,,, Two tanks and the switch are just part of the car's uniqueness.
I kinda like the exercise, complete with pirouette that I go through when I fill the tanks.


On occasion, others stare oddly....


Caveat. if paired up straight, parking on a side hill with a lot of fuel in the upside tank can be messy nd possibly dangerous. One way valves
on each tank could solve that glitch. LnrB's car is so equipped.


Should you opt to dry that resting tank quickly, I've an idea. Use the shop vac in either flow direction with the large drain cap open. A leaf
blower gas or electric can even do it faster...


Extra tips:


1. Need to sweep out the shop? Save the arms and shoulders. Use the leaf blower.


2. Washed the car. Need to wipe it dry? Use the leaf blower.


3. Too much pooch hair on the carpet for the house vacumn?
Use the shop vac!


4. I've had some major water spills in my kitchen. Saved the day. shop vac...Oddity, when we bought this house in 75, the kitchen was carpeted!!! Even if seemed to be an outdoor product, it had to go. Whew... Solid sheet vinyl. Mostly white. Wifey liked it so... her option. I've found a way to mop it. Swifter products. And when frying foods, cover the skillet. Old vent in old kitchen not that effective.


But, newer tech range hoods and vents have their own issues..


Carl

 

Not only does the dash switch change tanks, it also changes senders. You might want to know how much gas you actually have in each tank.

At the time we bought Nix we were told the right gauge didn't work. It probably hasn't worked since the resto-version took place in 1986.

She draws more from the left tank; I usually fill up at about 300 miles, putting a mere 5 or 6 gallons in the right tank and 10 or 11 gallons in the left. At this point the gauge usually sits just below 1/4. I want to know how much gas is actually in the right tank instead of guessing by how many miles I've driven.

To that end, husband got her a new right tank sending unit (SNG Barret) which will be installed just as soon as I've driven about 350 miles and know the right tank is also very low. But first he has to create a proper tool for removing the lock ring.

I'll be posting my results.
(';')

 

I think it was Bob Loftus that posts in Lumps on J-L.


The sender has lugs like those seen on WWII style Jerry gas cans.


He ground a filter wrench to coincide with the lugs. Filter wrench
with socket drive. Elegant.


A cruder way s with a brass drift from the side.


I recall some domestic used that system on the line to the fuel pump. Always in an unreachable location.


But, your hubby has the talent, so.....


Carl

 

For what it's worth as far as fabricating the tool: I picked up a segment of exhaust pipe at the auto parts store (basically a metal tube about 4 inches long and about 2 inches in diameter, of which they have a variety of sizes, for small-scale exhaust pipe repairs) and did as follows: into one end, cut three equally-spaced notches (corresponding to the three tabs on the sender lockring), and at the other end a pair of notches opposite each other, in which a screwdriver or similar could be fitted to turn the "tool". It worked pretty well.

Best, Andrew

 

Andrew, that's so Elegantly simple! I Like it! So much so in fact, I think I'll do it!
(';')

 

HAHA aren't leaf blowers just the best thing ever invented? I use mine for all of the above & even for blow drying my Harley. The wife reckons i'm lazy, I reckon it's good time management.

 

Job done. The fuel system is now drawing from both tanks at once with non-return valves before the T piece & a filter before the fuel pum to catch any left over crud form the previously un-used left tank. Took it for a nice long test drive & did not encounter any problems at all.

 

I love a happy ending :-)

Has to be a Jag, even the simplest available solution looks complicated :-)

 

Hello Rick. Just curious as to what filter you used prior to the fuel pump. I am planning to add a filter at that location as well and was thinking of using the same model filter that is currently downstream of the pump. The line size is such that many auto parts stores do not stock the in-line filters to suit.
Thanks,
Wayne

 

Neat, should my original system flunk out, that is where I will go.


The pump to FI filter is made to deal with a lot o PSI's. So, it is expensive.


A pre pump filter must only deal with gravity's PSI's, much less, so costs less, a lot less.


Carl

 

If you look closely at the pic he has some adaptors in there to get the line sizes to something workable. I have something similar although I am still running the tank c/o , just a generic 5/16 Z14 fuel filter from memory, and another pre carb just because I am paranoid.

 

Hi Wayne,
Steve is right. It is just a generic 5/16 inline filter. The thing i particularly like about it is that it is very clear so that you can see what is going on. At $4.50 each i bought 3 of them & keep a spare in the toolbox in the boot just in case it picks up a bit of crud whilst i am out driving. The size adaptor is going to be swapped out for proper brass elbow with reducer. The system in there now was there when i bought the car & is a little too dodgy for my liking.