Getting down to the small stuff on my project.

Has anyone tried this Furflex from Welsh (and/or others?)

Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XJ6 Series II (75-79) Body Fittings Front Doors Parts - Door Furflex Kit - XJ6 69-87

It's about half the price of (presumbly OEM) Furflex offered elsewhere.

Good? Bad?

To be honest I'm not sure if anything can be worse the the original....it always seems to fall apart. Maybe it's just the nature of this type of product?

For $115 I'm tempted to give it a whirl.

On the other hand.....

Has anyone tried non-fuzzy alternatives? I wouldn't necessarily be opposed to something more ordinary but also more durable

Cheers
DD

 

Not in my area of expertise, if I even have any, but, domestic cars that use as "wind lacing'.


Therefore, perhaps, a visit to a local "trim" shop might yield a replacement. Same or perhaps, even better.


Carl

 

I have used that type of Furflex twice... in a Series 1 SWB, be sure to start in the rear doors at the most rear portion and go forward... same on both sides.

 

I have used this on my car.
Basically it is just a sheet metal strip, covered in fabric....

Be sure not to damage the paintwork when slapping this in....

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm not sure if my question was entirely clear, however. I was inquiring about the Furflex specifically sold by Welsh, not about Furflex in general.

Dutch and Roger, were you answering about the Welsh product specifically?

Cheers
DD

 

I bought from Jag Bits... they seem to all sell the "same" stuff

 

I bought mine from Limora.com, but looks just the same....

If it's sheet metal with fabric, it's the same...

 

I know the material itself can wear down to the fabric and that can look bad, but on my XJ6 the material itself was falling off of the mesh and that is what looked really poor.

I spent $4 on contact cement and re-attached it successfully in about 20 minutes. Pretty easy fix for the different in appearance.

 

I've done the same in the past with mixed results....probably because I'm not very skilled nor patient when it comes to that sort of thing

The delamination problem is common....which is one of the reasons I'm considering an entirely different product/design than Furflex. In the end, though, I reckon I'll just go with the $115 offering from Welsh and cross my fingers that it has some semblance of durability

Cheers and thanks
DD

 

$115 isn't bad for the whole car.

You could experiment with a different glue, like gorilla glue. A big difference in contact cement is made by applying to both surface areas, then letting tack off for at least 15 minutes.

If you just slap it together it tends to stick to one side, then fall off the other. If you apply to each, then let tack, it has time to stick to each surface, when you then combine the two, the glues easily grab each other while now having a good purchase on each surface.

I made sure to add enough glue so that the holes in the mesh were filled. I think long term, in a hot environment, a different adhesive may be best to use, but its an easy repair for now.

good luck with the $115 kit, I think thats a pretty good price.

 

Update.

I purchased and installed the furflex from Welsh. Here's a new link to the item

https://www.welshent.com/Furflex-Kit-Lwb-P22896.aspx

A few remarks.....

The furflex in the kit is not an exact duplicate of that used by Jaguar originally but the end result is perfectly acceptable, IMO.

Installation was a little frustrating. This type of trim presses onto the pinch welds along the periphery of the door openings. Easy enough on the straight runs where the sheet metal is only two layers thick but in some areas it is three layers thick and at the base of the A and C pillars there are some compound curves. Patience and persistence needed to make it fit into place.

The metal 'skeleton' of the original furflex is akin chicken wire whereas the replacement product has a very thin sheet metal skeleton. I suspect the original design is more flexible and therefore easier to install in the curvy areas.

It is *essential* to avoid kinking the material when handling it. Doing so distorts the skeleton and further frustrates your efforts.

A rubber mallet is useful for gently thumping the furflex into place over the pinch welds. With practice you master the technique of rolling the furflex onto the pinch welds followed by a gentle thump in exactly the right spot. Of course I didn't get the knack things until I was about 80% done with the job. Story of my life

You'll need some sharp diagonal cutters to trim the material for length and the cut the notches for the pillar lamps

Remove the dashboard end caps and the rear seat. This is allows room in the previously mentioned curvy pillar areas to get behind the furflex and press it home with you fingers (front) or thump it home with your rubber mallet (rear). The sill plates also must come off, as well as the assist handles in the rear seat area. Ideally the cantrails should come off as well....but it isn't essential.

Lots of finger work needed. If you have arthritis and/or carpel tunnel syndrome (I have both) your hands will be complaining. For those afflicted I suggest doing the job one side at a time over two days. I spent about 4 hours total.....much more than I anticipated....about three hours on the first side but just one hour on the other. Learn by doing, I reckon.

No need to live with ratty furflex. All-in-all, well worth the money @ $115..... and the effort.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for that Doug,

Furflex, like headliners, is one of the things old Jags always need.

Rob

 

Don't mean to hijack the thread but..Just a short note about Gorilla glue... be advised that.. when you apply it, and as its drying (setting up) it tends to foam. If you try to stop the foam from going berserk and try to wipe off the excess,..you could wind up getting it spread over everything ,..making a mess . Try to remove it and you will experience what the Gorilla name is all about. Gets a mind of its own. Not good on furflex.

I found that out the hard way when I tried to replace the veneer on an old "ski slope" for the console area in my car. Foaming glue was coming through the knots in the veneer (burl) and onto the surface of the veneer. ruining the piece - but teaching me about the foam factor.

 

There's a newer non-foaming version.

 

i have dealt with WELSH for many years, always pleased with results.

they know what there talking about , just couple weeks ago , looking for a 78 vacuum brake booster ,NEW, not rebuilt or used , they had a New one on the shelf, and when i got it and examined it was brand new , and a lower cost price than any one else!!

ron

 

I avoid Gorilla Glue at all costs. Loctite's Power Grab is my general adhesive of choice.

Don't know how will it work on this, though.

 

Plain old Elmer's Wood Glue has held Nix's Fur Flex firmly in place for over 4 years; even those complex curvy bits that seem to come loose first. It seems to grab the headliner clips Really well!

Just Sayin...
(';')

 

you are all too young to remember J.C.WHITNEY. They have different types of "extrusions" of furflex.

 

Jose : Not I!! It's been a while since I bought from Whitney. good results though


Doug: No carpal here, but the fingers get notchy and ache at times. I get it,


Kudos on a job well done. Enjoy the victory.


Carl

 

Carl they even have the thermal fuses for the GM Harrison compressors!