Gas Fumes
#1
Gas Fumes
Ok I know this is currently being talked about in another thread but mine seems to be different. I have a fuel smell coming from I think the trunk. I have pulled everything out and the pump and connections seem fine. I don't see anything leaking. I don't have any leaks on my floor. What else should I be checking in the back? Is there a vent or something or seal that must be shot?
#2
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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An endemic issue in these cars. Three things come to mind.
1. There are vents at the bottom of the rear valence. Easily squashed.
But, easily pried open. Been there done that.
2. The many hoses and connectors can ooze fumes, with no evidence of fluid loss. Replacing all has been reported as a fix!!!
3. There is a vent at the boot bottom. Add a 12v fan. A defunct computer is a great source. wire from pump power. when the pump runs, so does the fan. Ala boat bilge vent!!!
As for me, a long lived gear head, I'm used to "fumes"???
Carl
1. There are vents at the bottom of the rear valence. Easily squashed.
But, easily pried open. Been there done that.
2. The many hoses and connectors can ooze fumes, with no evidence of fluid loss. Replacing all has been reported as a fix!!!
3. There is a vent at the boot bottom. Add a 12v fan. A defunct computer is a great source. wire from pump power. when the pump runs, so does the fan. Ala boat bilge vent!!!
As for me, a long lived gear head, I'm used to "fumes"???
Carl
#3
Fuel line
Must be the fuel lines then. All other items on the list have been checked. How often does the charcoal canister need to be changed at the front wheel passenger side?
What kind of fuel line should I use. Can I grab any line from a parts store or is it specific (for the rubber lines)
What kind of fuel line should I use. Can I grab any line from a parts store or is it specific (for the rubber lines)
#4
#5
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There are LOTS of lines...many hidden, and sometimes the steel lines rust and leak. Some are above the rear suspension. Don't forget to check the hoses right below the filler caps.
Sometimes the tanks themselves leak. You'll have to pull off the tank covers (big job) to inspect.
Fuel pump bodies can ooze slightly from the crimp that holds the two sections together
As Carl said, a tiny oozing from anywhere can create a big odor
You'll just have pick a starting point and track down all the lines and pipes. Time consuming.
Wrap all joints and hoses or any suspect parts in colored tissue paper. Even a tiny leak will discolor the paper
Cheers
DD
Sometimes the tanks themselves leak. You'll have to pull off the tank covers (big job) to inspect.
Fuel pump bodies can ooze slightly from the crimp that holds the two sections together
As Carl said, a tiny oozing from anywhere can create a big odor
You'll just have pick a starting point and track down all the lines and pipes. Time consuming.
Wrap all joints and hoses or any suspect parts in colored tissue paper. Even a tiny leak will discolor the paper
Cheers
DD
#6
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Jordan:
I've never seen a spec for servicing the charcoal canister located just behind the right outboard lamp and connected back to the tanks and forward to the intake. Not a likely source for fumes in the boot!!!
Back to the boot. The tank to pump lines are gravity only. "Ordinary fuel lines are adequate. However, If I were swapping those, I would do two things.
1. Use FI only lines. Simplification in shopping if for no other reason!
2. Plumb in "low pressure, throw away filters", to protect the costly fuel pump from debris.
Another thought:
Check the seals on the gas caps. Mine look awful, but, in some mysterious manner pass CA's demanding SMOG test. I should change them out!!! I have replacements!!!
A fiddly job at worst....
Carl
I've never seen a spec for servicing the charcoal canister located just behind the right outboard lamp and connected back to the tanks and forward to the intake. Not a likely source for fumes in the boot!!!
Back to the boot. The tank to pump lines are gravity only. "Ordinary fuel lines are adequate. However, If I were swapping those, I would do two things.
1. Use FI only lines. Simplification in shopping if for no other reason!
2. Plumb in "low pressure, throw away filters", to protect the costly fuel pump from debris.
Another thought:
Check the seals on the gas caps. Mine look awful, but, in some mysterious manner pass CA's demanding SMOG test. I should change them out!!! I have replacements!!!
A fiddly job at worst....
Carl
#7
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Location: Walnut Creek, California
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#9
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
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#10
I too struggled with the gas fumes and I believe that problem is now behind me......I hope! I looked and looked last year, and the fumes were so bad but even worse when the windows were down! During the winter, I dropped the IRS to do the brakes, and there was the problem......leaky return lines. They were rotted out above the IRS, but just weeping; thus I did not see any puddles under the car. In the process of doing this job, I also took a look at the 2 gas tanks, and discovered the driver's side was weeping as well.. So, now I am running with new return lines and one gas thank! But, so far, the fumes seem to have gone away. I'll keep my fingers crossed! Hope this helps!
Regards,
Wayne's Jaguar
'88 Vanden Plas, V12
Regards,
Wayne's Jaguar
'88 Vanden Plas, V12
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