I have a lead on a Series III XJ6 with the body and interior in fair condition, with a bad engine.

The seller's been sitting on it a couple of months, and wants it gone. A could probably get it fro a grand, and I'm 99% sure if I showed up with $1500 and a trailer, he'd be more than happy to help me load it.

I've always wanted a Series III XJ12, even though they never imported that animal into the US. So now I'm thinking about getting this XJ6, and tracking down a V12 to drop in it. I'm thinking a carbed motor would be easier, and the county I live in doesn't do emissions testing. Even if they did, a Series III is old enough to be exempt, so a V12 swap would still be legal.

I'd need an engine, transmission, and motor mounts and front springs from an XJS. Radiator, cooling fan, exhaust...

What else am I missing? What would it take to get this project off the ground and build my own XJ12?

I'm assuming any of the parts I need could come straight off an XJS and bolt right up to an XJ6. So I'm thinking I may just try to find a rusty XJS with a bad interior that still moves under its own power to use as a parts car.

I never was a fan of Chevy V8 conversions, but I think a V12 might be fun.

 

It's quite doable....

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roject-142259/


Cheers
DD

 

Depending on your goal and budget you might well be better of with a 'very good to excellent' XJ6 recipient car. Cosmetics (paint, chrome, leather, wood, etc) run into serious money


The pre-HE carbureted engines are often considered best for high-performance modifications but little else. They were only used for about 3 years so you might have a hard time finding one. If that's not your cup of tea, go with a HE injected engine.



A ton of XJS V12 stuff is transferable but not everything. You'll want a Series III V12 radiator panel (although an XJ6 panel could be modified). You'll want the XJS front anti-roll bar. If you go fuel-injected you want *every bit* of electronics from the XJS donor car--entire ECU wiring loom, all the relays, the ECU itself, oil cooler and pipes.

Not sure if the XJS air conditioning hoses will work, but they might. You want the brake aux vacuum tank, throttle and cruise control cables....and surely other things I've forgotten. You'll need to have a driveshaft made up or find a Series III V12 to grab it from.



Fun, yes...but lots of work, too. Getting the engine and trans in place is the least of it. The 101 details are what take the time.

I was lucky in having a Series III V12 donor car so I just picked it clean.

Cheers
DD

 

Series III V12s are pretty scarce here in Texas. Too far from Canada for the rare grey market car to make it. Hence the plan to try to find a crunchy XJS.

The car I'm looking at has some small rust bubbles forming at the base of the rear windshield, and the clearcoat on the sunroof is faded and peeling. Front windshield is cracked. Everything else looks pristine. The seats look a little dry and worn, but aren't cracked or torn. The wood has just enough cracking in the varnish to give it a little character. That's why I say she's fair, but not great. With some leather conditioner, I could live with the interior condition, the cracks in the windshield are on the passenger side and should still pass inspection. The only thing that worries me are the rust bubbles. at the rear. Looks like they're just starting to show through the paint.

I got on the ground and looked underneath the car. No rust on the bottom of the car. Even the rust prone rear suspension mounts looked good.

I think it's just good enough to be worth saving, and just bad enough to be a major project.

 

From what I've read here of others experiences with window rust. I'd say the MAIN thing you should be worrying about are those rust bubbles. I'd get it to a competent panel repairer asap, to find out just how bad it is & how big the repair bill's going to be. Rust never sleeps!

 

I can second that. The windows need to come out, period.
The problem are the window rubbers that were never particularly good at keeping the water out, but are very good at keeping the water in...

Hence the windows need to be taken out, al the rust that is not showing from the outside just yet needs to be cut out and replaced with new metal.
You gotta do it the right way, or else the rust will be back sooner than you can spell "Vandenplas". For a good panel beater, this is not really a challenge, but it is a lot of work.

Also check the interior of the boot and passenger compartment for moisture. Best to have the car in a warm and dry shed for a while with demoisturisers in every compartment.

 

I vote you take a road trip and buy one.
would be quicker and more fun than (to most) doing it that way, and more legit.

 

I must admit. I'm surprised to learn that the V12 was never sold in the US, at least in S3 form. I always thought that the entire point of the V12 was to increase US sales. It's certainly a pointless engine in the UK, where high fuel prices & short point to point distances negate it's use as a GT cruiser, which is it's main raison d'être, I would've thought.

 

Wow, an SIII for !500 or even a grand that has a bad engine!!! It oughta be durn near perfect. Make sense, in a way, definitely, law of the market place. In insurance parlance, the car is salvage only, a total loss.


But, as Doug did, a V12 transplant is intriguing. But, the base needs to be solid. Else,
the result will be disappointing.


You have rejected the other path to a nice car. And, I've no quarrel with that, clearly your option. The only one that counts. ,


Just my idea???


Carl

 

A few thoughts... Very doable project but the question is which V12 to choose and why?

Late series 3 V12's are special because many of the design problems were solved by then. Using a early or mid 80's XJS v12 means you will be spending lots of time and money moving a potential problem. And if the chassis is rusted chances are the engine wasn't maintained either.

Also drive a v12, on the early cars the performance is underwhelming and thats a lot of effort for a little result. The later 6.0 V12 with the 4 speed autos are much better performers and make a worthy transplant even though the wiring will be overwhelming at first glance.

What's your hangup with a convert?

 

I have to agree. A 6.0 would be a great choice and much more return on effort expended !

One concern is the 4L80E trans (if that was part of the decision) fitting into a Series III transmission tunnel


Cheers
DD

 

On J-l, a lumper described the install of an LS SBC complete with 4L80E. As I recall, it did take a minor amount of BFH massage. He was quite pleased with the result.


Carl

 

I was thinking the rust bubbles could be ground down, soaked in naval jelly, then the holes filled in. Sounds like it's going to be a lot more involved than that.

If it's going to cost a couple of grand to fix the rust, even if it doesn't look bad to start with, then it's rapidly getting to the point where I'd be better off spending more money and finding a rust free car to start with.

Is there a source for sheetmetal around the rear windows? I'd guess most junk cars would be in about the same condition, and most rust-free cars would be too nice to hack up the body work.

We're talking about 30-40 year old cars here, so I kinda figured a certain amount of wear and tear comes with the territory. And since I'm going to be taking the thing apart and changing a lot of factory original bits, do I really want to start with a pristine SIII? I figured this whole project would be more forgivable to the car gods if I started with something a little rough to start with.

I was contemplating painting the car myself, so I could probably save a little money at the panel beaters if I had them fix the rust and leave the body work in epoxy primer. I can always shoot the color on later.

 

A rust free shell will soon pay for itself. Chasing rust in any old car is an exercise in frustration, & the S3's a known heartbreaker. A pristine interior will save a lot of restoration costs too. So those are the two things I'd be looking for in any car I wanted to rebuild, especially if high hp was on the menu.

 

I hear ya, but.......

More than a few times I've seen people buy a somewhat rough example, fix the mechanicals, fall in love with the car....and then are faced with thousands of dollars of cosmetic work to make it what they really wanted all along!

If you think that might end being the case, save yourself a ton of cash and buy one that is in really good shape cosmetically.

Just food for thought

Cheers
DD

 

You definitely don't want to be cutting corners when it comes to rust.
First things first: those windows need to come out.
Only then you can see the real damage to the window frames.
If you're lucky, it's just a few holes that can be welded up after being cleaned.
Personally I would cut the rusty parts out and weld some new sheet in. After welding, a good dose of anti corrosion coating on the inside and wash primer on the outside.

It doesn't have to get expensive, if you can do things yourself.
It's a lot of work, recreating the shapes and lines of the bodywork, but well worth the effort if done correctly. You just have to make sure, the water stays out....

 

Old rule on water and structures. Keep it out or get it out. Usually takes both.


Second old rule: What you see as to rust on the surface, is but a bit of what is hidden.


Third old rule. Rusty metal can not be welded.


Fourth old rule. Various goops claimed to bond on rust don't. Rust will win that battle


Carl


Carl