Hello all,

Recently, I flipped on my hazards to alert another car to the presence of a much smaller kitty near the side of the road and on the downward press, I must've been just a little too enthusiastic about the hazard we posed to this cat because the plastic mechanical level which 'flips' the switch broke off. It's still affixed to the switch itself but it is loose when lifted and falls to the bottom fascia spot.

My other turn signals still operate. I also have another hazard switch in my parts tub from a donor car but after reading this in the manual, I wanted to confirm that it was as simple a job as it appears - unscrew wheel covers top and bottom, disconnect, remove, connect, refit. The manual said "caution: no attempt must be made to seperate the direction indicator/head light/flasher switch from the bracket. Faulty items are changed as complete assemblies."

 

Today, I was re-securing the new hazard switch and removed the wires from the back in the process thinking I've done it once, surely I'll be able to put them back correctly...
Now I have a small clump of wire spades and cannot remember how the wires map onto the terminals. There is a set of 4 terminals on the top and 3 on the bottom of the hazard switch. The wiring diagrams show which colored wires go there but they don't show which number terminal to connect each wire. Jose, I know you have experience replacing these switches. Any chance you could direct me where to put each wire?

 

Best to wait for Jose but if he doesn't come along soon this might be helpful:


Signals, turn and hazard


At the bottom of the page is a wire color-to-terminal number chart, cut-n-pasted here:


#1-Light green/blue wire
#2- Light green/white wire
#3- Light green/red wire
#4- Light green/green wire
#5- None
#6- Light green/pink wire
#7- green wire
#8- Brown/orange wire


Cheers
DD

 

below is from a 1990's forum thread I have kept all these years: I think Doug has it too.

the Brown+Orange wire, is the feed for the Hazard-Emergency switch. It comes directly from the battery (fused) and allows the Hazard-Emergency Flashers to operate with the ignition switch in the "OFF" position.

The Green+Blue wire, comes from Pin 5 of the Ignition switch, and it powers the Turn Signals, when the Ignition Switch is in the "ON" position.

Turn Signal wiring:

The Light Green+Pink wire, supplies 12v power to the Flasher unit, (also known as Flasher Relay), with the Hazard switch in the "OFF" (DEFAULT) position, via the Green+Blue wire, from the Ignition switch. (see the Light Green overlay in the drawings).

Hazard Switch wiring:

With the Hazard switch "ON", it supplies 12v power from the Battery to the Flasher unit, via the Brown+Orange wire.

Testing the Flasher unit:

STEP 1: remove the Green+White wire from terminal 4, and
remove the Green+Red wire from terminal 7. Connect/jump these two wires together, you can use a paper clip.

STEP 2: connect/jump the Orange+Brown wire to the Light Green+Pink wire. same as above.

Now read the scenarios below:

a) If the Flashers work front and rear, and both sides, (Ignition Switch, and Hazard Swith is bypassed by this test, so it won't matter if they are On or Off.), when the Orange+Brown wire and the Light Green+Pink wire are connected, the Flasher unit is OK.

The final wiring connections that worked in my car are as follows:

NOTES:
*the Hazard switch has raised numbers in the rear, next to each contact.
hard to see them, but they are there.

*the First Color is the Solid, the Second is a Stripe or Dash.

Connector #1-Light Green+Blue wire
Connector #2- Light Green+White wire
Connector #3- Light Green+Red wire
Connector #4- Light Green+Green wire
Connector #5- None
Connector #6- Light Green+Pink wire
Connector #7- Green wire
Connector #8- Brown+Orange wire

 

funny, all of us have broken one of those hazard switches at one time or another, the problem is that the upper cover, the "nacelle", has a almost 1/8" error, so one side of the switch is too close to the square cutout of the nacelle when you are trying to reinstall the nacelle. It's like trying to push a large solid object through a smaller hole.

I remember a mechanic told me once "you have to lower the steering column to be able to slide the upper cover easily over the switch". Too late, I had already broken two switches while trying to get the upper nacelle in place. Live and learn.

what I did in my car, was to file off about a 1/16th" of plastic material from the side that has the error, if I remember correctly it is the FRONT of the cutout where it meets with the front of the switch case, as this is where the two parts do not align.

Next time, just lower the steering column, it's more work of disassembly but it avoids breaking the switch.

 

Thanks very much Doug and Jose - I should've checked over at JagLovers when I was searching. Yes, I fell prey to the same plastic snap around the pivot.I think maybe these break so easily because when installed and used, the angle at which we flip it down and up isn't the ideal angle of use for flipping the switch (probably due to the excess plastic).

You mentioned lowering the entire steering column to give me room for installation. I could definitely use some room and incidentally I am also trying to install a Nardi woodwheel right now (one that has a hub for the xj6) but am completely confused by the number and placement of so many confusing bolts on the steering column. Two questions there:

1. How do I lower the steering column in order to perform the switch replacement?
I'm not familiar with the vocabulary of these steering column parts (first time I've done any steering wheel/column work myself) so clarity in directing me to which bolts/screws need to be loosened to allow it to slide down slightly would be greatly appreciated.

2. How do I remove the old steering wheel to install this Nardi wheel?
Instructions for removal from manual are as follows:
a. Centralize front wheels.
b. Remove three lower bezel screws, detatch cover
c. remove clamp bolt securing collet adaptor to steering column
d. slacken locknut of grubscrew in collet adaptor and unscrew grub screw two turns
e. withdraw steering wheel, complete with hand locknut, impact rubber, collet adaptor, and shaft.


basically all the instructions past b are frankly beyond my comprehension and given the presence of so many bolts in so many locations along the column I am not taking any further action without some experienced advice. I don't know what the grubsrew, clamp, collet adaptor, hand locknut, or impact rubber are.
The new wheel has one of those black metal cone 'hubs' into which it looks like a textured/geared turnshaft would sit to allow turning the wheel to turn the steering shaft (or whatever the proper name is). The single wire button I purchased and fit in the wheel has its single red wire running through the hole of the hub.

 

Loosen (not remove) bolts (item #2 in this illustration) and the column will drop down a bit.

Steering Column Mounting-Upper - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK





I'll need to refresh my memory a bit. It isn't difficult, though. More later. Jose probably has a better memory or more recent experience

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug - Just for clarification, is the #2 bolt the bolt that is right above the accelerator pad partially obstructed by the springs to the accelerator or it is further up behind the driver's underscuttling?

 

John,
to see the the steering COLUMN bolts you need to remove the vinyl knee pad, (the vinyl cover located above your knees when you're sitting in the driver's seat).

for these column bolts, you'll need a big ratchet, at least a ½" drive ratchet with the proper socket, (13mm or ½" socket if I recall), those bolts are and should be very tight and you'll need the leverage to loosen them and tighten them.

the bolts are below the ignition switch steering Lock assembly, one on the left, one on the right side of the steering column "tube". The first two big bolts and clamps you see after the ignition switch/steering lock assembly. You'll see very bright silver spacers below them.

Removing steering wheel:
I don't recall having to remove any of the stuff you mentioned when I installed a Momo steering wheel in mine. The "collet" is the forward and backwards adjusting scalloped nut assembly located behind the steering wheel. You do not need to lower the steering column to remove or replace the steering wheel. You do not need to remove the collet either. Leave that alone.

Yes, you park the car level and with the wheels straight forward in the same position as when you're driving in a straight line.

1) assuming you have the original "school bus" / "extra large pizza" steering wheel, then remove the two phillips screws located behind the left and right spokes of the wheel, the Horn Push Cover will come off then. Turn the steering wheel as needed to access these two screws so you don't mess with the turn signal and wiper stalks, they are delicate, work away from them.

2) Once the horn cover is off, you will see a yellowed white plastic "nut"; Use a 1" socket to remove it, you don't need a wrench or ratchet for this nut, just a socket, it is gently hand-tightened. Just place the socket over this plastic nut and turn it counter-clockwise gently. This plastic "nut" has a long "stem" which goes into the steering column tube. Once loosened, just pull it out and put it away in a safe place, it breaks easily, if it breaks, you are in trouble, removing the broken piece will be a pita.

3) now you will see the 1" or 1-1/8" inch steel nut and washer which hold the steering wheel in place; You'll need the proper size socket, a 3" extension and the ½" drive ratchet. Place your thighs under the steering wheel and push up so the steering wheel does not move, then loosen the nut with the ratchet counter clockwise, remove the nut and the washer.

4) now gently tap the steering wheel behind the left spoke and then the right spoke, gently pulling it, until it comes off the Splined Shaft. That's it!

5) now re-install the new steering wheel with the new Hub mounted to it already, trying to get the new wheel in the straight ahead position, it might take a few tries, so don't push the new hub all the way in, just try to find the right location in the splines of the shaft and the hub, it usually ends up 1 spline off, but if you keep trying, you'll find the "sweet spot". Then you push the new hubgently rocking the new steering wheel into place until you see enough Thread in the splined shaft, then you place the washer and nut and use the socket and ratchet to drive the hub all the way home.
This nut needs to be tight but not so tight.

Wiring the Nardi horn push will be trial and error, so buy extra fuses because you'll blow lots of them. I can't help with that because I don't know how the Nardi horn push works.

I've replaced the steering wheels in both my Jags with 15" diameter wheels and each horn push has been a trial-and-error until I got them to work.

Back to the Hazard Switch, the idea is to lower the COLUMN a bit, like Doug said, not to completely "dislocate' the column from its mounting. Just a little lower so that you can get the upper "nacelle" over the hazard switch without damage.

 

Jose and Doug,

again, thanks a million. The idea of doing this without lowering the steering column is, in retrospect, absolutely laughable. My replacement part did not work as expected when wired in the manner described above probably due in part to the fact that my empty terminal is not terminal 5 but instead 4. I ordered my replacement part using the same part no. from AZautohaus online. But in either case, working outward from the info posted above about passing through hazard switch, I found the terminals on my replacement part which permitted signal use in hazard off position and which activated dash light and L and R front and rear flashers in hazard on position. That wiring was:


Seriously, without removing the upper bezel "nacelle" casing after lowering the column this would've be impossible without breaking something. I managed to work the switch into the metal bracket by disconnecting the lowest two wires, fitting it in top first and then aligning carefully and pushing in on top and bottom simultaneously until it popped into place. Reconnected lowest two wires, retightened steering column into place (very tight), replaced all the underscuttle stuff and retightened all screws (not too tight here!). Operates as it should now - thanks to all!

As for Nardi wheel, I intended to get started on that but I don't have a 1"/1-1/8" socket and the mosquitoes were coming home (my driveway, of course) to roost and feed for the night. Hardware store and hopefully a new wheel tomorrow. I'll post a photo of the completed result and I took one of the relative location of the steering column bolt to the fusebox - with Doug and Jose's description combined it's pretty obvious but it might just help someone else who stumbles onto this.

 

I forgot to post that wiring in case anyone comes across the same problem I did. My alternate wiring which permits turn signal use and working hazards plus indicator light was:
1 - BO
2 - GR
3 - LGU
4 - no terminal spade on my replacement flasher!
5 - Green
6 - LGPink
7 - LGGreen
8 - GW

Photo of the steeringwheel changed out:


Thanks again everyone - hope documenting this helps someone else in the future.