XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Heater valve replacement tips? - XJ6 - S3 4.2

 
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:44 PM
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Default Heater valve replacement tips? - XJ6 - S3 4.2

Greetings,
I have an 86 Series 3 with a bad heater valve (previous owner bypassed it by removing the hoses and inserting a manual metal valve which has a dribble leak). I have the replacement valve (but it didn't come with the mounting bracket and so I am hesitant to start the project if the vendor sent me the wrong part) and the replacement hoses. I have loosened the intake grille (without breaking the pins) and have access to the bolts that hold the valve against the firewall. My questions are:

1) do i need to drain any of the coolant beforehand or just let physics run its course when I loosen the heater core to valve hose?

2) when I remove the vacuum hose to the old valve should I think about replacing that vacuum hose (please say "no") or do I need to do anything to make a better seal on the hose to the new valve?

3) do I need to send the replacement metal valve back if it does not have the mounting bracket attached? Is there a way to re-use the existing valve's bracket?

4) AND...lastly... the windshield washer hose check-valve is broken and so while I am in the intake grille area I need to replace it but I cannot find an OEM replacement. Can I use any check valve? I found a check valve for a fish tank that is the right size (and only cost $3) but its really to prevent water from flowing back into the air pump and since fluids are 8x denser than air i worry that this will cause the washer pump to overwork and burn out.

Any advice is appreciated.
 
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:10 PM
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1) it depends how big a mess you're willing to clean up. Coolant is slippery as you no doubt know, and if you merely disconnect the hoses on either side of the valve you have little control where it all drips. You about can't put a big enough pan under the car to catch all of it. You don't really need to drain ALL the coolant, just enough to get it below the level of the valve; IF you don't want a puddle on the floor under the middle of the car.

2) If the vacuum line is soft you can probably get away without replacing it, but it's cheap insurance if you do. SO many problems can be traced back to leaky vacuum lines.

3) and 4) I can't help you with as I've never removed that valve from the car and I don't use the windshield washers. Window cleaner and a rag work Just Fine and don't scratch the glass.
(';')
 

Last edited by LnrB; 10-23-2014 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:47 PM
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1. My metal valve was replaced by a plastic generic one before I got the car. It works just fine. No bracket used, the hoses support it just fine.


2. However, if the new replacement valve is such that it needs support, I suyspect the one you have will fiot or will with a bit of tweaking.


3. If no, just make one up from sheet metal. Tin snips, a drill and a vise to make the bends.


4. I suspect the fish tank "one way valve will be adequate. If not, the local parts emporium, with a real parts guy can match it. If it is a kid that needs make and model to go into a computer, chances are slim or none.


5. If in doubt as to any hose, swap it with a new one. .


Carl
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:50 AM
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the heater valve for the XJ-6 should be like the one in the picture, if it doesn't, return it.

once you have the correct valve or "Servo", disconnect one hose from the old valve and connect it to the new valve as fast as you can, same for the second hose. Then tighten both hoses. The coolant loss will be minimal.
 
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Last edited by Jose; 10-24-2014 at 01:54 AM.
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jose View Post
the heater valve for the XJ-6 should be like the one in the picture, if it doesn't, return it.

once you have the correct valve or "Servo", disconnect one hose from the old valve and connect it to the new valve as fast as you can, same for the second hose. Then tighten both hoses. The coolant loss will be minimal.
Jose (and all) thanks for the advice. Unfortunately the heater control valve I purchased a while ago from FCP Euro did not have the mounting bracket and the OEM control valve bracket cannot be retrofitted or adapted without major work (or using a tube of JB Weld which is a bad idea from the start).

The vacuum hose is pretty dried out but it runs behind a bunch of relays and their mounting bracket and so I cannot see where it runs to in order t replace that vacuum hose without tearing into a lot of other things I am not comfortable messing with right now. So... I have a clip on the end of the vacuum hose for now until I can find a accurate replacement heater control valve from another vender.

Once again, thanks for the quick responses to my questions. I appreciate it.

- Michael
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:11 PM
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Michael,
To run a new vacuum line, pick up a union/splice fitting from your local parts house (take a short sample of what you have to be sure of the fit) and stuff it between the old and new vacuum hoses.

Then, being sure you have PLENTY OF SLACK, GENTLY pull the new hose (feeding in more line as necessary), which is attached to the old hose via the splice/union fitting; through the maze and gauntlet, around all those torturous curves and corners, BEING GENTLE AT ALL TIMES (lest you pull the connection apart) until you have effectively replaced the hard old line with supple new line.

Connect at both ends to their respective fittings and Voila! New vacuum line installed; no muss, no fuss, no stress, no strain!
(';')
 
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:09 AM
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Jose,

I know this is old, but where did you get that part? So far I have only seen the valve ithout the bracket.

Thanks,

Eric
 
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:29 AM
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Eric,

you can find them at eBay,

also check the following SNG Barrat link:
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

the picture I posted shows the bracket attached to the heater valve.
 
 
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