Loose inner fulcrum mounting, rear suspension!
#1
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Loose inner fulcrum mounting, rear suspension!
I have my IRS out for a brake overhaul and differential replacement.
I was a bit surprised when I found the inner fulcrum mounts very loose....'floppy loose' to be more descriptive. These are item #5 in the illustration below
Wishbones and Mounting-Rear - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
Can't say that I've come across this before.
The bolts were prevented from totally backing out thanks to the safety wire. I dunno know how long they've been loose. The car has 170k miles. Maybe this accounts for the clunk noise I've heard a couple times?
I'm not an alarmist but it's conceivable that an outright failure could have occurred....eventually.
Anyhow....just a heads up. Something else to check for. With the car elevated and the tie plate removed you could probably get a long pry bar in there and check for looseness.
Cheers
DD
I was a bit surprised when I found the inner fulcrum mounts very loose....'floppy loose' to be more descriptive. These are item #5 in the illustration below
Wishbones and Mounting-Rear - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
Can't say that I've come across this before.
The bolts were prevented from totally backing out thanks to the safety wire. I dunno know how long they've been loose. The car has 170k miles. Maybe this accounts for the clunk noise I've heard a couple times?
I'm not an alarmist but it's conceivable that an outright failure could have occurred....eventually.
Anyhow....just a heads up. Something else to check for. With the car elevated and the tie plate removed you could probably get a long pry bar in there and check for looseness.
Cheers
DD
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orangeblossom (01-25-2017)
#2
This is why I'm no fan of safety wire these days. I use Red or Blue lock tight appropriately, nylock nuts and lock washers where applicable.
Safety wires is difficult to actually do it right. Many mechanics, home and shop, really dont know how to. Unless a person has been on a racing team and learned the "art" chances are it's not right. A properly done safety wire is a thing of beauty though.
Safety wires is difficult to actually do it right. Many mechanics, home and shop, really dont know how to. Unless a person has been on a racing team and learned the "art" chances are it's not right. A properly done safety wire is a thing of beauty though.
Last edited by icsamerica; 01-25-2017 at 12:04 PM.
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#3
Can it be that the needle roller bearing seized up years ago and the wishbone has been pivoting on the fulcrum mounting which it should not do, of course !
The XK of the late 90s had a cast aluminium front subframe with trunnion bearings on the upper wishbone with a rod that the bearings fitted onto, the whole thing being bolted-up with nuts each end. Some owners of high milers, and some not so high have found that the trunnions seized and the rod too the wishbone rotation and gradually wore out the housing in the casting.
So, Doug, could this be your syndrome as well. I don't know much about the upper trunnion housing; is it cast iron or aluminium ?
The XK of the late 90s had a cast aluminium front subframe with trunnion bearings on the upper wishbone with a rod that the bearings fitted onto, the whole thing being bolted-up with nuts each end. Some owners of high milers, and some not so high have found that the trunnions seized and the rod too the wishbone rotation and gradually wore out the housing in the casting.
So, Doug, could this be your syndrome as well. I don't know much about the upper trunnion housing; is it cast iron or aluminium ?
#4
Doug,
Common as morning coffee.
Every Jag from the S Type, up has had that issue for me.
The bolts loosen a tad, the working of on and off the throttle works the shims out, and then its sloppy loose.
Our S2 Daimler had one bolt sheared off, like a guilotine.The wire helped to a point to stop the open bolt falling out, but the second bolt is trapped behind the spacer tube and can only undo so far.
YES, that would be the clunkies you hear.
I use full circle shims, in lieu of the horseshoe syle, and locktight. Never had issues after that.
Check the top 4 bolt holes in the cradle, they crack up there from the working of the diff centre.
Common as morning coffee.
Every Jag from the S Type, up has had that issue for me.
The bolts loosen a tad, the working of on and off the throttle works the shims out, and then its sloppy loose.
Our S2 Daimler had one bolt sheared off, like a guilotine.The wire helped to a point to stop the open bolt falling out, but the second bolt is trapped behind the spacer tube and can only undo so far.
YES, that would be the clunkies you hear.
I use full circle shims, in lieu of the horseshoe syle, and locktight. Never had issues after that.
Check the top 4 bolt holes in the cradle, they crack up there from the working of the diff centre.
#5
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A properly done safety wire is a thing of beauty though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XktwpWPFvHs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XktwpWPFvHs
It's a LOT easier when you have that much room to work with
Cheers
DD
#6
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And once the shims fall out it can only get worse!
Our S2 Daimler had one bolt sheared off, like a guilotine.The wire helped to a point to stop the open bolt falling out, but the second bolt is trapped behind the spacer tube and can only undo so far.
Another odd thing is that, on each side, one bolt is longer than the other. I haven't investigated why. If that's typical, I've just forgotten. Been quite a few years since I've 'been there' !
YES, that would be the clunkies you hear.
I use full circle shims, in lieu of the horseshoe syle, and locktight. Never had issues after that.
I'll do the same but, because I sorta enjoy doing it, I'll use the safety wire as well.
Check the top 4 bolt holes in the cradle, they crack up there from the working of the diff centre.
The uppers were not finger loose but I didn't have to do much more than set the wrench on 'em to remove 'em. No cracks, though
Cheers and thanks
Doug
Last edited by Doug; 01-25-2017 at 11:04 PM.
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Grant Francis (01-25-2017)
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Cheers
DD
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Hmmmm. It seems to me that two smallish bots are subjected to a lot of load. In tension and shear!!! But, other than a clunk on some, it seems to work.
Am I going to jack up mine, remove the bottom plate and pry? Not likely.
Were I to do so and found a need to fix, I'd consider two changes. A single strap with two holes to replace the open end shims or any washers. More friction surface?
and failing room to safety wire, a single "mechanics wire" tying the bolts together.
Old Ford V8 flat heads used that method to secure the nuts and studs on the center main bearing. It worked.
I'd do some thinking about a thread locker, Loctite or similar.
Carl
Am I going to jack up mine, remove the bottom plate and pry? Not likely.
Were I to do so and found a need to fix, I'd consider two changes. A single strap with two holes to replace the open end shims or any washers. More friction surface?
and failing room to safety wire, a single "mechanics wire" tying the bolts together.
Old Ford V8 flat heads used that method to secure the nuts and studs on the center main bearing. It worked.
I'd do some thinking about a thread locker, Loctite or similar.
Carl
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Grant Francis (01-28-2017)
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