Okay, I traded a bunch of old truck parts for an 87 XJ6 that doesn't run. It isn't in the best shape but it doesn't look too bad...from a distance.
The interior is pretty sad with the vinyl coming apart and a piece of the headliner missing. But what really surprised me was that the dash was a wood sticker and not real wood? I always thought that was a trademark of Jag's was the real wood dash?
Well, I'm new to them, so I may be a wealth of misinformation.
The engine turns over well and sounds like it has good compression. Oil is clean, antifreeze needs changing but is there. Engine has no spark, so the first thing I checked was the coil. I have constant power to both sides of the coil even while cranking, so please, correct me if I'm wrong but my assumption is the ignition module is probably bad? I've already pulled it off and the aluminum looks like it's seen better days. I'm searching for a reasonably priced one now (part stores are listing them at almost $500!)
I found one on Ebay, it is also a Lucas ignition amp AB14, but has a red tag instead of silver and 2 more wires? Are these interchangeable?

 

It should have real wood. Sounds like someone has added a fake overlay.

Both sides of the coil should have voltage with the CEI--Constant energy igntion. The "-" side should flicker while you crank, though.

The main component of the ignition amplifier is the module, which is a GM part....AC Delco number D1906...about $40 or so. Easy to replace.

Do you have an ohm meter? If so you can check the coil.

I'll find the CEI checklist and post back.

Cheers
DD

 

This is right from the Jaguar shop manual

The test assumes a fully charged battery

1) Measure voltage at coil "+" terminal with key "on". It should be within
one volt of battery voltage. If not suspect a problem with the wiring to the
ignition switch, or the switch itself.

2) Measure voltage at the coil "-" terminal. Result should be the same as at
the "+" terminal. If Ok, go to step 3. If not....
Disconnect the wire from the amplifier from the "-" post of the coil and
measure voltage again. Less than 2 volts means the coil is faulty. More than
2 volts means the amplifier is faulty.

3) Disconnect distributor pickup coil from the amplifier (this is the
harness from the distributor that plugs into the amp). Measure resistance
across the terminals. It should be 2.2k to 4.8k ohms. If Ok, go to step 4.
If not, replace the pickup.

4) Reconnect the pickup to the amplifier. Measure voltage at coil "-" post
while cranking engine. The voltage should drop. If OK, go to step 5. If
not, the amplifier is faulty.

5) Check distributor cap and wires, distributor rotor arm, spark plugs, coil
wire.


Cheers
DD

 

This is exactly the information I was looking for!
I'd already pulled the ignition amp and lifted the back off to discover the GM part inside, much to my relief! Every parts store I've visited quoted me almost $500 to replace it, and of course it was a special order so I'd have to wait for it to come in!
Now that you've given me the actual parts number that will save me some time too. I want to replace the condenser (or what looks like a condenser) inside as it looks pretty corroded. I suspect any condenser would work?
I broke one of the distributor cap bolts off inside the distributor so I have some drilling and tapping to do. It was pretty rusty so I soaked it heavily in penetrating oil but it didn't help. I figure I'll used the old cap as a drill guide.

So I'm off to the parts store today for a new cap, rotor, ignition amp, condenser and hopefully...luck! I'll come back and post what I find.
Thanks!

 

I never replaced the condensor but I'm told that any old condensor...like from a 60s-70s vintage car with points-type igntion....should be OK.


Cheers
DD

 

summitracing has a coil, condenser & module for $50/shipped

search there for...

"ACDelco D204" it is the condenser for $5

"Proform Parts 66944C" is the module for $21.75

"Summit Racing SUM-G5217" is the ignition coil for $21.95.

All these parts are the same if not better than "OEM JAG" parts. You can have them shipped to you normally within 2 days..their standard shipping & the shipping cost is minimal. I live in Panama & they are to me within 1 week, using standard shipping.

Mind you these parts WILL WORK with no troubles. ANY 4-pin GM module will work, as will any standard tower coil & condenser. They do not need to be JAG specific, as they were also standard issue in MILLIONS of GM vehicles from 4 to 8 cylinders(I am using a Nippon-Denso toyota 4AGE coil on my Jag right now). People just think "JAG" so it must be expensive & exclusive. But the fact is most of the parts that bolt to the engine, or used for operation have been used on anything from BMW's to Chevy chevette's.
Injectors are not specific, AFM is not Jag specific, Fuel pump is not Jag specific, etc, etc.

 

oh-yeah, this forum was definitely worth joining!
How long before I get full access? I tried looking at some other members pics but I'm blocked

 

full access? no idea what thats about. I dont think it is a post count thing as I have under 20... I know I should have more. But I just have not been too active...or LAZY might be a better word..LOL

 

It says in the new member welcome posts that new members have limited access to prevent spam, and once requirements are met the restrictions are lifted.

 

Doug, I tested as you suggested and found the pickup had a resistance of 8.5 ohms, so I pulled it out. Any suggestions before I replace it? Are there any good interchangeable parts or is it specific to Jag?

 

I'm not aware of a generic replacement but I won't say that mine is the final word on the subject.

Google the part number and you might find someone who has found a generic part.

The Jag part number is AEU1500. Try Motorcars Ltd or Ebay.

Cheers
DD

 

perhaps 85xj knows what part is interchangeable?

 

First thing first, you can always call these guys to find out.
http://www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm

I know the mid-late 70's MG, triumphs & Jag's shared a lot of the same electrical, fuel & ignition components(Along with just about ANY car that had the L-jetronic). I have never had to renew the base plate so I really never looked into it. But I know (as per asking businesses) that the base plate in the distributors from MG/triumph/Jag from the 70's(75-79) were the same. The baseplate in a Jag distributor is the same from '75-'87....SO I would venture to say they are the same. BUT, Jag did use different distributors in those years(4 different ones if i am not mistaken).
Also, the EURO cars were slightly different(which is what I have).


Mind you Triumph, Mini, Rover & MG were owned by British Leyland. So they used A LOT of interchangeable parts(think Ford, Lincoln, Mercury).
For instance, ball joints, tie rods & misc steering components are virtually the same from Mini to Land Rover.

You just have to get one part number, do some cross references & visually look at the part. Because, say as an example.....the tie rods on the Land Rover may have a different part number, because they would have a 1/4" more thread depth for extra adjustment. They could fit perfectly into a JAG, but no one would know because they look at the part number & see it is different, so they assume that it would not fit.

I spent a lot of my growing up years in auto recycle yards & reading the hollander manuals. Also years with the military taught me A LOT. SO I am all about finding parts that interchange. Because that opens up options on where to get parts & that of course lets to being able to find better deals.

 

Thanks xj, I shot them an email because it's the weekend and hope to hear back soon. I'll post an update about what/if they know of any interchangeables.
Thanks guys!