XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

New 86 XJ6 - Debug Day 1

Old Aug 18, 2019 | 12:43 PM
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Default New 86 XJ6 - Debug Day 1

Hi all - new owner and second post. I have a beautiful example but a non-starter. I collected all of the debug steps after reading many, many pages from the forum. Many thanks to all who contributed.

1) Bought spark test light and verified spark at all 6 plugs. However, I noticed that most of the sparks were a bit faint but a couple we much brighter. Could be crappy spark plug test light but just wondering what "might" cause that. Also, this car has a Crane XR700 (?) ignition setup with new cap, rotor and plugs. But I will dig deeper into that later

2) Next.. fuel? The pump never made a noise and trying the "put in Drive" and turn to start caused no activity. So I popped the relay and jumpered 12v to green/white and verified at the pump that 12v was there. Yup... but the pump appears to be toast. Checked my records that came with the car and surprisingly the past owner spent a mint on this car, but no record of a new pump. So that is on order and I am excited that this might be the issue.

3) Screw up of the day... I wanted to pull the pump and redo the fuel lines in boot. So I switched fuel selector to empty tank and unplugged the battery. Went to boot and pulled pump input hose and ... WTF... gas comes pouring out line. But I was SURE I selected the empty tank. But apparently, the empty tank was the one that requires 12v at the changeover valve and the full one requires 0v. So when I disconnected battery for safety.... Doghhhhhh!! Anyway, need to get some 1/2" dowel wood to plug line!!

4) Checked for stake down kit and was surprised it did not appear to be installed. After all the money this guy spent, and at a very reputable Brit shop.... I was amazed that this work had not been done. But maybe not every engine has this failure. Do you advise I get it done regardless?

5) Lastly, pulled one large drain plug from tank and the filter was clear but torn, so need to replace it. Looking up into the tank I was a bit shocked to see the entire interior coated with a fine rust dust. The car spent time outside with half/empty tanks and I know that is the cause. Any advice how to clean the interior up, or just to replace internal filter and add new line filters before pump. I will flush 5-10 gallons through the tank, but not sure that will knock loose that dusty rusty coating.

6) Last PITA issue. The tank I drained did not have a access cover plug, so access to the bolt/drain plug was easy. The other side though has the access cover and the screws holding the sheet metal panel in place are rusted shut and heads are stripped. I have PB Blasted them and plan to try to vice-grip the bolts out, but short of success here, how can I get that damn plug out. I read that there is a foam piece between it and the drain. I whacked on the cover a bit but it does not seem to want to push "in" to the hole. I guess if I cannot free the screws, I will use a bigger hammer or drill a hole and cut the plug and pull it out. I don't care if I mangle. I plan to buy Jose external plug replacements.

Thanks for any advice.. totally had fun yesterday!!!!!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by worzella
Hi all - new owner and second post. I have a beautiful example but a non-starter. I collected all of the debug steps after reading many, many pages from the forum. Many thanks to all who contributed.
Congratulations ! Series IIIs are great cars

1) Bought spark test light and verified spark at all 6 plugs. However, I noticed that most of the sparks were a bit faint but a couple we much brighter. Could be crappy spark plug test light but just wondering what "might" cause that. Also, this car has a Crane XR700 (?) ignition setup with new cap, rotor and plugs. But I will dig deeper into that later

Plug wires?

2) Next.. fuel? The pump never made a noise and trying the "put in Drive" and turn to start caused no activity. So I popped the relay and jumpered 12v to green/white and verified at the pump that 12v was there. Yup... but the pump appears to be toast. Checked my records that came with the car and surprisingly the past owner spent a mint on this car, but no record of a new pump. So that is on order and I am excited that this might be the issue.
12v was 'there' because you bypassed the control circuit. If the new pump doesn't work you'll have some work ahead of you to diagnose the circuit fault

4) Checked for stake down kit and was surprised it did not appear to be installed. After all the money this guy spent, and at a very reputable Brit shop.... I was amazed that this work had not been done. But maybe not every engine has this failure. Do you advise I get it done regardless?
Opinions will vary. It's never a bad idea to have the stake down kit but, OTOH, one would think that if a failure was gonna occur, it would've occurred already. Not all engines suffered this failure by any means so installing the stake down is insurance

5) Lastly, pulled one large drain plug from tank and the filter was clear but torn, so need to replace it. Looking up into the tank I was a bit shocked to see the entire interior coated with a fine rust dust. The car spent time outside with half/empty tanks and I know that is the cause. Any advice how to clean the interior up, or just to replace internal filter and add new line filters before pump. I will flush 5-10 gallons through the tank, but not sure that will knock loose that dusty rusty coating.
I knew a guy who had great results by just using a garden hose to flush away the loose rust. At the other end, you could remove the tanks for professional cleaning. Lots of work involved.

I'd add the filters before the pump and see how it goes. You might have to replace them several times before all the loose stuff is run through....but that's easy compared to pulling the tanks.

Don't forget to replace the existing filter located near the spare tire

Be prepared for the possibility of the tanks leaking due inside-out rust thru

Do NOT operate your new pump unless you have cleaned the tanks or you have installed pre-filters

6) Last PITA issue. The tank I drained did not have a access cover plug, so access to the bolt/drain plug was easy. The other side though has the access cover and the screws holding the sheet metal panel in place are rusted shut and heads are stripped. I have PB Blasted them and plan to try to vice-grip the bolts out, but short of success here, how can I get that damn plug out. I read that there is a foam piece between it and the drain. I whacked on the cover a bit but it does not seem to want to push "in" to the hole. I guess if I cannot free the screws, I will use a bigger hammer or drill a hole and cut the plug and pull it out. I don't care if I mangle. I plan to buy Jose external plug replacements.

Just break it off/knock it out/cut it out.

Thanks for any advice.. totally had fun yesterday!!!!!

You've obviously done a lot of homework ahead of time. Good job !

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 04:54 PM
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I agree with Doug, sounds like plug wires to me. Do you actually have 12v at the fuel pump as checked with a multimeter?

Out of curiosity, you said the previous owner spent a lot of money at a reputable repair shop. Why is it the car doesn't run? Has it been sitting and neglected for an extended period?

Jeff
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks for replies

- The tanks are both new.. a few years old, so hope rust through is not an issue yet

- The plug wires are new... but I will worry about the mixed spark level if she doesn't start after fuel fix

- 12v at pump via voltmeter test... so sure the pump had it's kick, but was dead

- Yes... the car lost interest over the generations. Bought in 86 by grandfather in Long Island and driven.. son inherited and lived in Palm Beach and driven, but less, then grandson inherited and over last ten years was driven 500, 200, 50, 10, 10 miles per year... so last ten years she was neglected. But rest assured once I get my cat purring, she will be put to task !!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2019 | 06:52 PM
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before you condem the fuel pump, .did you check the Inertia Fuel Cutoff Switch?

located below the dash corner in the passenger side. Check to see if it is tripped by pressing on the spring button on the top of the switch. If it "clicks" when you press it, it was tripped. Try to start again.

To remove those darned inner plugs at each quarter panel, you need to remove the bumper corner piece and then the panel itself.

I have exterior mount finishing plugs if you want to seal that hole.

check them out in my website:
Jag Upgrades Home
 
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Old Aug 19, 2019 | 11:23 AM
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ADVENTURES abound. You tube abounds with folks doing first starts on cars that have "rested" for decades.

There are two big hard rubber plugs under each tank drain. I destroyed mine by prying them out.
For a time I considered fixes. The decided, no need. NO harm no foul as I seldom if ever drive in any dirt or inclimate weather. Decade or so ago, I might have taken up Jose's product.

I think it was Bruce Hugo that came up with the prepump filters. A great idea.. The You tube guys do that pre carb on questionable tank on the oldies they resurect.

Is the pump an original Bosch. Great units. Expensive, so I hear!! Remove it and bench test it.
Hook it up to reverse flow. DC motors do that. Flush it. I suspect a bunch of detritus. it might then work....

Carl
 
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