In case anyone may be remotely bored enough (and I commend you if you're not!), this topic gets me to the end of my rope, and I feel the urge to rant...

Yesterday, as happens every 6 months, I'm reminded of the S3's true Achilles Heel - oil change time!

Well more specifically, oil filter change. Draining the sump and bunging in a fresh oil field (8.25 litres = 1 oil field) is easy as a peach, whereas changing the filter on the fuel injected XK is the ultimate PITA. The design cleverly ensures that in extracting the thing there is no physical way of avoiding copious amounts of oil running down your arm, around or on your head, into every conceivable crevice and of course, on the ground.

So as we devoted souls lie there under our beloved machines to lavish the care we know they deserve, we're cursing the fool who when designing FI for the XK made sure it was near impossible to access the oil filter. The one and only tiny aperture through which the filter must be coaxed, between steering rack and cross member, is by my estimate approx 1mm smaller than the canister itself - involving much one handed jiggling while the slippery contents succumb to the forces of gravity 3 inches or so above your face.

Many rags & old towels later I finally mop up the mess, feeling somewhat proud that I also managed once again to get a new filter on. I am less proud of the ensuant language during the exercise, but alas, it is unavoidable.

Even with a full height hoist I know this is a messy operation, but involves less contortion than we in the real world endure with ramps or stands. I keep saying "next time she'll go into the shop and I'll pay the labour" then the masochistic tendencies prevail and I always end up having another go.

At least the S1/S2 folks running their faithful old carby XK's (and yep, I concede also the lumped S3's) have a chance of extracting the filter from above. It must bliss, be thankful for that!

BTW, if anyone has a foolproof method of tackling this job, please feel free to let me know!

Sorry folks, but I feel better now....

 

Tony, I have so much to do there's No Way I could ever get bored this time of year!

Of course, now that I think of it, you're dealing with WINTER! Yes, I Do get bored in winter.

Tony, you know what they say about No Good Deed Goes Unpunished!

I love my pickup truck engine; I can change oil in an hour flat including drain time and hardly even have to wash my hands.

Sweet Nix....
(';')

 

Why do you change your oil every six months?

 

Well, Elinor, now you're just showing off! Or, could it be I'm jealous?

 

Since it's not my daily driver the car does very little mileage. I work on the principal that keeping the oil fresh in these aging engines is good preventative maintenance, even if they are not used a lot. I change it once in early summer and again early winter, although we're in mid winter now - I'm a bit late. Still, it's sunny and 15c today, so the weather isn't really a factor.

 

Tony,

Memory???? I think.

When Jnr had his S3 EFI he would drain the oil at night, and leave it drain all night.

Next morning spin off the filter, say a few words and spin the new on.

Never much oil spill that I remember cleaning up, he never was into that task, and I reckon it was the filter did drain back over time. I know, as you do, that there is an anti-drain back valve in all filters, but it does not hold it forever.

I did the same on the X300R recently, and when I reached up and cracked the seal, nothing ran down the arm. The car had sat for 3 days whilst doing other stuff, so maybe I am right.

My V6 S Types, PITA. Filter is basically vertical from under the L side. BUT, when cracked, the oil held in the filter head and pipes runs out, and no amount of leaving it stand, stops this approx 1 ltr running out. Tried it with her S,sat unused for a month, same mess.

 

You can safely go to one year intervals under such usage.

 

Points:


1. I've been used to getting "oiled" from way back. No not the boozed meaning.


2. Some of my critters were easier than others to change the oil and filter.


3. It's been decades since a clean topside job was possible. My Toyota FJ40. Filter remotely mounted with connecting hoses. Not too good,. One blew and I lost an engine!!!


4. My Jeep is OHV 6 powered. Down and under for the drain. Other ways for other critters are rare but not impossible. The filter is toward the left rear of the engine. Almost directly over the starter. Accessed from the top. A stretch, but doable. Not bad, if I didn't over tighten! One of my filter wrenches wraps around and gets it. Only once, did I have to result in punching a lever through it. Even, if I place the big catch pan well, the starter gets oiled!!!


5. My Jaguar is LT1 powered. It's filter is as usual with SBC's. Down and under and engine left. Vertical. And a bit shrouded. But, a filter wrench usually gets it. A bit of a spill usually caught by a sleeve on me and the catch pan.


6. It is possible to mount a full flow filter remotely. A pair of adapters needed. Generic for the can. But, would be custom for the Jaguar DOHC.
Were I to have one, I'd consider it.


7. Well, I've about 5 gallons of waste oil in can. Disposal a few miles away???


Carl

 

I've been accused of that before! LOL
(';")

 

Why not???


SOG. The Predator OHV Honda knock off failed to crank. It is usally easy to fire. Oh #%$&%$### needle float i9n carb must've stuck!!!! Hydraulic lock!!!! Removed spark plug and cranked. Geysers of fuel!!!!


Gotta redo the oil change. Used the leaf blower to clean it and the "old" tech chipper shredder clean. Serviced the air filter. made a huge mess. Cleaned up sorta with the leaf blower. Pooped. Another day for follow up.


Messed with the Jeep's sound system. And reset it's Vehicle information center!!! Clocks now match. FM decent. AM fie with engine off. Screech with it running. Pushed on spark plug wires. All secure.


Lead suspect: Fuel pump!! Will I drop it to add a condenser? Not a chance. Will I add one to the radio feed. Mebbe. One of my spare Jaguar radios has such a "can". Where is the feed, short of pulling the radio ?


Gotta look


And, I do have stuff I should be doing before this "play".


Lunch...


Carl .

 

Grant, I remember the X300 filter change being something of a doddle in comparison. On the S3 just getting the filter and your hand in & out of the tiny space can't be done quickly or at the wrong angle - even the space between the end of the filter and the chassis leaves barely a 5mm clearance once unscrewed. Oil pours from both filter and block, but mostly it's to do with what comes out of the filter as it twists around (usually upside down!) to get it out of the hole.

Interesting to know a longer drain time might also drain the filter - I wonder if all filters are equal, or more likely, if some have more "effective" anti drain back valves than others? I use Baldwin, mainly because my local supplier of Jag bits keeps them. Curiously though, he told me this time that he was out of the "Chinese ones" (not something I've ever had or asked for!) so I wonder if they hold a secret...

 

No! I can't believe that!!

It really was just jealousy 'cos I have known the sheer joy and satisfaction of doing a clean oil (& filter) change. In fact my other (modern) cars come pretty close to delivering that.

 

At the risk of busting the hornet's nest wide open, and since the question has come up, what are the general views (or individual habits) re. frequency of oil change?

The two schools of thought seem to be;

1. Modern engine oils are so efficient they don't require changing as often. 12 monthly for av. mileage is enough, particularly with FS oils. I basically agree with that for my modern cars.

2. An old school habit of 6 monthly changes (which is where I sit with the Jag). It was drilled into me many moons ago that a drive of at least 30mi / 60km is necessary to probably heat the oil sufficiently to kill any moisture. There's also a theory that after 6 months, the oil (and the detergents in it) break down and can no longer do their jobs properly, regardless of mileage. That obviously concerned mineral oils, although they may be differently engineered these days.


To me it's about basic risk management: With fresh oil, risk is minimized. With aging oil, various driving conditions may compromise oil efficiency (e.g. temp extremes, journey distances, overall distance travelled in a period, town or highway use, etc). Who really knows? Maybe it is all about the individual's driving conditions rather than plying a one-size-fits-all maxim?

 

You could be brutal and un Jaguar like and put a hole in the filter with a nail punch, cold chisel or similar and let it drain, then remove when empty. Just a thought, not sure how realistic it is as I havent seen the access from below.

My favourite oil change is my Hilux truck. Has enough ground clearance to do it without ramping, oil filter sits up on top of the engine at the front. All very civilised.

When I first got my old Morris I did 3 oil/filter changes in the space of 1000kms, jeez that thing had some awful crap circulating in it.

 

Directly below the filter are the steering rack pipes & boots, and also the upper & lower bushes, all of which catch that stream of oil before it reaches daylight. Basically it is what it is Steve - awkward! Just have to persevere and swear a lot!

 

Tony,

With mineral, 6 months is just fine.

FS or even Semi Syn could be annually.

My DD S Type is 6 monthly regardless of kms and FS oil.

Her S is annually, and usually 2K kms only travelled, hardly used, and FS also.

All the older Jags, V12 etc were 5K kms, Mineral oil, and they were always DD cars.

 

Jaguar recommends a 12 month interval irrespective of mineral or synthetic oil type.

 

Bit like a 100kph speed limit, doesnt mean you have to do 100kph.

 

Nor will anything bad happen because you're doing 100.

 

Just reach down between the twin Su's with the left hand and spin the filter off, reach around the front Su with the right hand and hold a rag under the filter.
job done with no mess.