Just got this car from a friend who's husband had it for 10 years. Car wasn't driven for the last 4 years due to illness. Previously was regularly serviced by a Jag specialist in Sydney.
Paint work is now shot due to being stored in an open carport and not seen a wash or polish in 4 years. Interior is not too bad has had a new headlining put in. Seats are worn but should come up ok with a bit of love.
To date I've just had a Jag mechanic service and give it a roadworthy certificate so car is now registered for 12 months and sitting in my driveway.

I now have some initial questions after driving the car over the weekend.

• The fuel gauge doesn't work switching between either tank.
• Left hand fuel tank car runs well but then switching to the right hand tank car splutters and stalls, both tanks are currently full.

• There is a really strong smell of exhaust gas/petrol fumes coming into the cabin. Exhaust was checked for leaks for the roadworthy. I'm thinking the boot (trunk) seal may need to be replaced as rubber is flat and hard and looks to not be fully sealing. The Car has the fancy curved exhaust tips that I thought were factory fitted to stop exhaust blowing back through the boot?

Your thoughts on any of these issues would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance. Davo

 

hi,
I'm not sure about the Series 1, but when fumes get sucked into the cabin in a Series 3, it's usually through the hidden cabin vents at the top of the rear cowl channel, behind the boot lid seal; The "S" muffler tips help divert exhaust away from the car but not during idling.

look at the top of the rear windscreen cowl with the boot lid open, are there openings or vents behind the rubber seal? If yes, there are flaps behind them that lose their gaskets and they allow fumes inside.

then if you look under the cowl inside the boot, on your back, there is a "tray" that is removable and the flaps are mounted to it. you'll have to remove the entire tray assembly to clean it (it becomes clogged with debris), and correct the flap gaskets if missing. The gaskets were usually squares of headliner fabric material glued to the metal flaps, so this would also stop any rattles.

A good sign that the flap gaskets are missing is a metallic "goatbell" sound when opening or closing doors.

congrats on your find.

 

Thanks Jose that's good info. Think my S1 has the same vents you descriibe, I'll check it out. Let you know how I go.

 

you bet.
while you're at it, remove and look behind the rear seat back, (the squab), and there might be two other flap vents there, (looks like the Series 1 is very similar to the Series 3 in the cabin vent system). Same thing, the flap gasket falls off, allowing fumes into the cabin. Also look for any holes in the cabin-to-boot divider panel insulation/sound deadener which should not be there, cover them properly with similar material.

remove all the floor mats and any insulation pads to get to the bare floor; Look for any unplugged holes on the floor which might be allowing exhaust gases into the cabin.

 

Hi Davo
1) Your fuel gauge could be bad since it doesn't work with either tank. Also could be as simple as a bad connection or some other wiring anomalie - further diagnostics required. I doubt both senders are bad.

2) Sputtering on one tank could be: bad pump or pump electrics, bad changeover switch, bad/old fuel in the offending tank, clogged pipe from the tank giving the trouble. My 73 had exactly that problem - a rust clog in the steel pipe going from the tank to the pumps inside the boot. Could also be a clogged pick-up screen.

3) Strong smell of gas could very well be the perished seals in the boot you describe because the tanks on non-US cars vent back there and you could be picking up the vent vapor through that area... you should also make sure that your rubber vent tube is attached. If the vent tube isn't attached to the tank vent or damaged it's very easy for that vapor to move into the boot.

~Mike
73 Series 1 XJ6
72 Series 1 XJ6 (new baby - just got it last week)

 

Thanks Mike, I'll check out those things.

Guys, here's a few pics to give you an idea of the overall condition.





Has a nice MotoLita wheel fitted

 

if you ask me, that looks like the original exterior paint and the interior looks also original. I bet you can bring it back to Driver condition with a lot of hand detailing and the right chemicals. Looks very good.

curiously I have the same horn-push assembly you have, in my '65 S type except I fitted a Momo Growler emblem I had from years ago.

 

Wow, love the look of that car!

 

I sold my wheel with rivets, gets too hot to touch in the summer. Bought
a full wood wheel rim one from Grant Signature line.

Has been on for 4-5 years now and works great...

 

yes, and the lacquer starts to peel off after a while. I went with leather.

 

Yeah they do get hot in the summer. I've got the original factory leather trimmed wheel with metal horn rim, thinking of maybe putting that back on, keep it stock looking.

 

The actual rubber seal on the outside of the car can be replaced easily.

Under the filler cap there is a hose that goes into the rear pillar and another
from the tank to vents.

I have added photos from the recent removal of my S1 tanks to replace
with S2 tanks that had FI. The LT1 SBC engine in my car needed a proper return line for the fuel due to the fuel injection.

Also changed out all the Jag changeover stuff and used a Pollak valve
and external fuel pump.

 

I am not sure I'd want to remove the patina from either the interior or exterior of that car. It just looks right. A veteran still doing what it was intended to do and looking the part.

At about age 17 or 18 and beyond, I worked while going to school at a full service gas station I sure learned a lot there. Washing cars was one of my duties. Plain water and atwo or three chamois was all we used. An old timer brought in his older black Mercury sedan. The paint wa very similar to this car. He instructed me to use a bucket of water with bout half a quart of kerpsense in it after the wash as a rinse. Well, that black really cleared up and took on a shine it didn't have. Probably short lived in the west Texas sun.
But, easy to renew!!

 

Hi Davo, Your car sure does have a nice patina - personally I like a car with some character. Driving around in trailer queens always makes me nervous - afraid to scratch it or park near anyone - much better to leave it the way it is. Give the skins some hide food or leatherique to keep 'em soft and maybe a quick buff on the paint and chrome and you're good to go. Sweet!

I'm wondering about the installation of the vents in your center parcel shelf. Am I right in assuming that's an after-market Air Conditioning installation? The pic makes it look like it was a period-correct install that was probably done when the car was new(ish). Are those vents built into something that fits perfectly into that area - like it was made specifically for XJ Jags? Just curious really - I'd love to see a close-up image of that vent system if so

BTW - Does it work?

 

Yes, that is unusual. I would like to know more about it myself.

Adding two extra vents in that area is easily done, see the photos.

 

Yeah I want to preserve the patina. Just going to treat the surface rust so it doesn't get worse. Don't mind the rat rod look. Might try that Kerosene rinse trick. Thanks for sharing.

 

Here's some pics of the air con unit. Looks to be specifically made to fit the XJ. Plastic suround matches the dash material. Only blowing hot air at the moment.



It's aftermarket. I have the original warranty card. Installed in 1974. Made in Australia!



Unit hinges forward to allow for fuse and gauages section to drop down.



Also has original Aus made AM Ferris push button radio with New South Wales dial. Has the centre speaker in dash plus another speaker on rear parcel shelf with a fader knob on the centre console.



This is the worst of the surface rust. (on the roof). Really need to sort this before it gets out of hand. I got hold of some decent rust converter type chemical from a panel beater going to give it a go and see if it cleans up a bit.

 

Thanks for the images Davo... Wow! Never seen anything like that custom fit A/C unit before. Very cool (no pun intended). Also LOVE that NSW radio. I lived in Australia for a while - fantastic country. I was planning to move permanently to Melbourne actually but it didn't work out. Granted, I never got close to many classic cars while I was there but I've never seen a radio like that.

Why was there a NSW specific radio? ...And if you ever see another one in a flea market or something let me know because I WANT IT Great stuff... nothing better than interesting, period-correct accessories!

I bet you could definitely get that rust looking a little better with a converter of some kind... let us know how it works out.

 

Ha! The address on that Aircon Warranty card is about 50m from my flat...(unsurprisingly the place is no longer there). I have exactly the same aftermarket system installed in my Series 1... I haven't been able to find any info about it at all until now!

Mine doesn't work for buggery either, currently investigating if it can be resurrected. Drop me a line if you get yours working.

 

Also, I may have a spare fuel gauge kicking around if you're anywhere near Camperdown...