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Hi
Trying to get the electrical door locks to work but no power coming.
Turns out it must be the small green Otter thing that connects the brown cable (plus) to brown/blue (door lock).
The type of Otter switch is not readable but I have only found thermal relays like this.
- Why would a thermal relay be needed for door locks?
- Are those Otter things self-resetting?
thanks
/Marcus
People place books, etc on the console, thus activating the switch/s, and the window or locking system is at the END of its travel, sooooo the choices are, fuse the system, or have the motor/solenoids go AWOL in the door, oops. OR melt the wiring, dont go there, BBQ Jaguar tastes terrible.
Coffee drinkers, those that MUST drink and drive, spill said liquid into the switches, oops again.
Generally the self reset after 10 seconds or so, but their tolerance for continual fusing is LOW, Lucas of course.
Echlin make Self Resetting Thermal Circuit Breakers, and I have used them for too long, until they left Downunder many, many years ago.
I would NOT suggest operating the system without them, but its YOUR car and YOUR call.
Last edited by Grant Francis; Jun 17, 2024 at 11:25 PM.
Aha, that makes sense. I thought the door locking solenoids shut off when they reached the end position.
Better get a new one then somewhere.
So, to test function is just to check if it is conducting. If not, it goes in the waste bin?
Thanks
Aha, that makes sense. I thought the door locking solenoids shut off when they reached the end position.
Better get a new one then somewhere.
So, to test function is just to check if it is conducting. If not, it goes in the waste bin?
Thanks
Yes, it's a simple case of checking continuity. Go/no go.
The original style breaker is silly expensive...although Dave at EverydayXJ likely has some good used ones https://everydayxj.com/
Or replace with a plastic-style fuse; I've seen that done a number of times. I'd say 25 amp would do it