I went to have a wheel alignment and was told I need to replace the rack and pinion on my 84 XJ6 Series 3 and then bring it back. The bellows are torn, the rack is loose, and parts are worn.

Is this a procedure I could use any certified mechanic shop to have done or do I risk something not being done correctly and should I go to my regular jaguar specialist mechanic ( they cost more ).

I ask because it looks like one basic piece being swapped out. Is this over simplifying what needs to be done?

Also, I have looked on Ebay and found one for $ 273.95 and one for $ 503. and a couple inbetween. What is the difference ? Any suggestions on where to buy the part and what to look for. Also, I know I need to buy 4 polyurethane bushings in addition to the rack ( 2 on each side holding the rack, my current ones are white). Are there any other parts I should get and have replaced at the same time ?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Can't think of anything particularily hard on the jag steering rack. Probably easier than most.

Is the rack definitely kaput? Worth getting a second opinion.

The track rod ends might be worth replacing if not done very recently, also check the state of the steering coupling.
Flush the steering fluid as well.
You may find that you need 3 pairs of poly bushes. Never seen white bushes!

 

Not too difficult to replace. Should be routine for any reasonably experienced shop or DIYer.

Coventry West (800 331 2193) has tons of experience rebuilding racks. I've bought several from them. I'd bet money that a rebuilt rack you get from any other Jag vendor originated from CW :-)

Cheers
DD

 

any remanned rack will do, buy from someone who will stand behind it for at least 12 months.

order a Red polyurethane bushing Kit from John's Cars in Texas, it was John who invented the kit to eliminate the side-to-side movement of the rack when using rubber bushings.
Follow the instructions on the kit to the letter, including mounting the Shield Bracket correctly; Jaguar conversions, swaps, parts, service and advice - from John's Cars in Dallas.

I would replace the two outer Tie Rods too. CarQuest has them.

last, have the front aligned and the steering wheel centered. The rack itself has a centering hole at the bottom; you need a small pick tool to center it.

 

Thanks for the details. I will likely use Coventry West for the rack, and I ordered the bushing kit from John's Cars.

I do have a couple questions.

Does the 'Track Rod End' come with a rebuilt " long Rack" or is that a separate part I need to get.

Also, are any of the Tie Rod ends better than others, they all look slightly different and all claim to fit the car. Brands I found include Moog at Parts Geek, or Premium Chassis at Carquest, or Beck/Arnley, and Raybestos. Any idea?

Also when I go to refill the power steering fluid, what should I use ? Is it just transmission fluid ?

 

Not sure if a "long rack" comes with the oouter tie rods.

I've used Moog and Raybestos suspension parts and been happy with both.

Yes, ATF for power steering fluid

Cheers
DD

 

long racks, new or rebuilt, do not come with outer tie rods, if you get one with outer tie rods, I would be suspicious that it was returned by someone who forgot to take them off!

I replaced mine probably 20 years ago, got them at Car Quest, they were the GM/Delco aftermarket variety, and they have been fine.

The power steering pump is a General Motors Saginaw pump so you can use trannsmission fluid or power steering fluid. I use STP Power Steering Fluid with Stop Leak, also have used Prestone Power Steering Fluid.

 

Now that I have the rack and pinion parts and I'm ready for the install... I have a few questions.

The polyurethane bushing kit from John's Cars came with no instructions, just three red bushings set in a metal rack/holder (see photo). I assume I knock out the old/rebuilt new bushings and push the new red ones in it's place. Do I take out the complete old bushing including the outer sleeve ? Do I re-use any part of it ? Any suggestions on this procedure. Should I just punch it out with a screwdriver and a hammer ? Will the whole thing come out and go back in with ease or will I have to chisel/cut out part if it (the outer most sleeve) ? Do I do anything with the nice metal rack that came holding the new red polyurethane bushings ?

Also, the new rack arrived with a slight screwdriver shaped dent already on it, at the outer rim/sleeve of one of the bushing mounting holes. Should I return the rack for a whole new one (they are local), or do you think it makes little difference once I remove the bushing and it's sleeve (see photo). Will it make fitting the new bushing difficult if it is not absolutely smooth and round at the outer edge ? I did read on one blog, that any cuts to the rack aluminum could cause cracks later on.

Lastly, when I refill the fluid I will use an ATF transmission fluid which is also marked "Dexon III or Mercon compatible", is this correct ?

Thanks in advance for all your advice.

 

I had John at John's Cars email the instructions that should have come with the product. So I'm clear on the procedure, except on how to extract the old bushings from the rebuild rack, aside from punching it out with a screwdriver and hammer(and maybe dinging the rack). You can buy/or rent an extractor from John, but I was never told that and now I do not want to wait for the mail, etc. Ideas..
Thanks
PS: The rack bushings John's Cars sells are far superior than what comes with the rack, I would not do the job without something like that, otherwise the rubber bushings just dry out and the rack gets loose prematurely

 

It's best to use the mounts extractor if you can wait ! The polyurethane mounts will make the steering harsher, but more accurate. I have used both, and somehow the old type mounts seemed better in terms of refinement. If the rack mounts in the one you have bought are new, why replace them ? The old-type mounts also need the rubber-faced washers as movement stops. These go on the single mounting and limit the rack travel; yes, the rack moves from side to side with the old mounts ! Not that you really notice it.

 

I now have a new rack installed on my 84 XJ6 S3. By using a different mechanic than my usual Jaguar specialist on this slightly less complicated job, and shopping the part, I had it done for a lower expense than I expected ( $ 230. for the rack & $ 170. for the install ).

I did end up using the polyurethane bushings from John's Cars. The results seem good, although my steering was so loose and imprecise for so long, it is hard to have a fair comparison.

Pressing out the rubber bushings that came with the rack and installing the polyurethane bushings was only done by finding instructions on the net on how the improvise a device:

"John's Cars offers a rental tool for removing the original bushings from the rack. It is extremely helpful, especially when working with the rack hanging under the car where a bench press won't help. Or, you can improvise such a tool using two 3/8" drive sockets (one with an outer diameter a hair smaller than the bushing, one socket deep and large enough for the bushing to fit inside it), a long 5/16" bolt or piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers." One socket presses the rubber bushing from one side through the rack into the larger socket as you tighten the bolt. The two socket and bolt press device worked great.

Thanks for all the advice on this project.

 

hey guys see this pic, am i missing a mounting part on my rack? i have a shimmy in the steering wheel when i drive and already replaced a tie rod that was warn. less of a shimmy but still a shimmy. can you see the bolt holes that look like something is missing in the pic? i was wondering if that was for a RHD car but let me know

 

Hi, the extra hole on the right mount is used on RHD cars, the front suspension cradles are the same for both cars just different racks etc. The shimmy is probably either the rubber mounting washers or the rack bushings themselves needing replacement. You will need to jack the car up to see them. I'm posting pictures of my rack before removal / replacement with poly bushings, you can see the rubber washers on the outside end of each as well as the shimming washers on the right side. The picture of the removed rack shows the replacement poly bushes which do not use the rubber washers + shims.


LHD Rack from front - above





Left side





Right Side



Hope this helps !
Cheers,
Brian

 

hey brian . super helpful

thanks man