Lucas is back??????
Sometime ago, I posted that I had something weird going on with my rear side marker lamps. Today, I decided to work on them and here is what I encountered. If I turn on my parking lights, the 2 front lamps, the 2 rear lamps and the 2 front marker lamps come on. I removed the rear panel in the trunk and checked the inline fuses and all three are good. I disconnected the input power wire at the inline fuse for one of the rear lamps and connected it to the red wire going to the side marker lamps and they turn on.
I have no power at the inline fuse going to the rear side marker lamps.
Fuse #10 is supposed to be the fuse for the marker lamps?
Or is it fuse #8 as per the S57 electrical diagram.
Fuse #10 only has switched 12 volts.
Fuse #8 has power flowing thru it when I turn the park lamps on. (Check)
In the engine compartment I have power at the white connector with the four red wires that feed the park lamps.
Is there another fuse somewhere that feeds the 3 amps inline fuse in the trunk?
Thanks.

 

Problem resolved:
Faulty bulb failure unit behind the panel in the trunk.
FOR THOSE OF US WHO ARE UNAWARE: (I was until today).
There are three bulb failure units there, located to the left of the ECU. One controls the left rear parking lamp and the right license plate lamp; the other controls the right rear parking lamp and the left license plate lamp. The one in the middle controls the rear side marker lamps.
There is a threaded piece that can be viewed above terminals L & B. This piece makes contact with Terminal WL which when powered, sends voltage via a bi-metallic piece to Terminal B and thru a resistor wire to Terminal L. Both ends of the resistor wire connect to Terminal L
I opened the Bulb failure unit and one of the resistor wire end was broken at Terminal L.
I was able to solder the wire back in place and my rear marker lamps now work.
I am going to locate and purchase a couple of bulb failure units to keep as spares.
Bulb failure unit: $33.19 each. Welshent
Thank you for reading.

 

I'm sure glad Nix doesn't have one of those!
I'm thinking No electronics is better than faulty electronics, and faulty Primitive electronics at that!

I don't speak Electronic very well.
(';')

 

Not to sure about that. I would assume that on NIX, the power train was converted, but all or most of the electrical system remained intact since there was no need to mess with the electrical circuits except for the circuits involved with engine electrical system.
You should check. you may still have the original lighting circuits, since there was no need to touch that during the conversion. Just like the door windows, interior lights etc.

 

LnrB;


I'm with you. I have progressed some, but not a lot from the od days.
touch the wire in question to ground. If it sparks, it is hot. that is a good sign. No spark, oh, oh!!


My early cars had no fuses to blow. And, if any did, some, mebbe even me just wrapped them in foil if they blew out.


Then came test lamps. Still a definite part of my tool boxes.


Now, wow, I'm into three VOMs !! They can do so much....


Carl

 

I'm pretty sure that the Series II cars simply didn't have the bulb failure warning system

Cheers
DD

 

True, but those are simple. The wire goes from here to there, not disappearing into a hidden box where magic occurs (or not). I can follow wires fine, even through headlight relays. But I don't have an ECU, TSY, TCU, ESP, PDQ or any of that stuff, and I rather Like it that way.

No, Doug, not Even! The closest thing to that is the seat belt warning thingy which went berserk so I unplugged the buzzer part. Nothing else was effected so I've left it unplugged.
(';')

 

It perplexed mne early on. then, I learned that it should light up on turning on the lamps, It is working. Then if it didn't go out in a bit, a lamp was dark!!

And right to left bulbs must be exact. Mismatched opnes might light up fine, but create a fals fail signal!!!

Interesting gadgetry.

My Jeep does that...

Carl

 

@ LnR: Oops! didn't know your car was a series 2. My bad. The Series 3s are pretty complicated. The more I work on mine, I realize that it goes like this. FRUSTRATION;FRUSTRATION; GLEE. I guess once you figure it out, thanks to the S57 schematics that Doug has kindly placed on this forum, I work without fear of failure. The frustration part comes when I misread the schematics. So, have a cup of coffee, a drink or whatever and regroup, then it lights up like a Christmas tree (and it's only March).
At this point in time I am going to say, Everything electrical works on my car, until the next time of course. Bad, Bad, Lucas is always lurking in the background somewhere.

On my '77 MGB, I just rewired the whole damn car. Installed a 5 relay unit from a Ford and ran all my wires from the front to rear along the tunnel. All lights front and rear fuel pump, blower motor, powered thru relays.
Not so easy on a Series 3.
You would think that's bad, I have a 1999 Volvo S70 and ............................... The wiring diagram is 162 pages.

 

162 pages does sound like quite a lot, Sanchez, but I was just looking at the electrical manual for my 2009 Sonata, and it's a half inch thick with no page numbers but has a Wonderful location key in front!

I think I could actually follow it though, because for example, the driver door has a line drawing on one page, with a wiring harness shown in Very dark ink, its route round speakers and door motors is Very plain to see, all components are numbered with corresponding numbers, functions and connections on the opposite page.

Since it was printed in Korea for an international market, there are LOTS of pictures and little text. It's almost Electrical for Dummies. I've already found where to unplug the dinger that tells me the key is in the ignition but the door is open (duh!) and the one that says I've turned the key before I've fastened my seat belt. I fasten my seat belt while the car is warming up a tad, getting its juices up and off the fast idle!
(';')

 

Yeah, on lots of stuff.


1. The electrical needs of NIX when powered by the 4.2 were very similar to the carb'd SBC's needs. Hence, straight forward connections work just fine.


A Carb'd S1 to carb'd SBC power plant even a little easier.


It is when an FI SBC is installed that things change a bit. But, once
understood, or even partly so, it all works out.


Lumper Bob Loftus shared the S57 with me a decade or so ago. Invaluable. I've shared pages from it with others more than a few times. Very clearly presented.


Carl

 

no kiddin! All that is the reason I prefer the 1965 S type, electrically simple, little to repair ever.