Hello, I dropped the steering rack on my 1987 series III by just removing the 3 mounting bolts, and didn't disconnect anything at the column or pinion and I left the ball joints connected. I removed the old rack bushings (which were completely shot and possibly original) and installed new poly steering rack bushes without too much fuss. But I'm having a very difficult time getting the rack lined up to push upwards back into the mounting bosses.

Even with moving the rack side to side I can't get it to the point where it lines up with the mounts - it's off to the left side a little too much. I've done this job before on an XJS and another XJ6 but I think I had the front wheels on ramps each time so maybe there was no or little lateral movement while replacing the bushes. This time I've got the wheels off and supporting the car at the lift points with redundant support under the subframe, etc. So maybe I should have locked the wheels or steering wheel in place or something. I know the service manual references a rack centering tool so I don't know if I've messed up not keeping the rack laterally secure while working on the bushes. I did use a jack to support it so it didn't just hang the whole time. My plan is to get an alignment right after I finish this job so should I disconnect the ball joints to get the rack back in place, or any other ideas?

Thanks.

 

a centering tool is anything like an ice pick or awl., i.e., anything you can get in the centering hole. Even a long thin hex wrench or a very thin eyeglass screwdriver will do the job.
If the steering wheel is locked, unlock it so you can move the rack.

 

You shouldn't need to "Center the rack" unless you messed with the inner tie rods. If, as you say, you didn't disconnect anything but the rack mounts, everything should be as it was, except for tighter fitting bushings.

I had to use a small screw driver and sort of wedge the rack back into place when I dropped mine, and then *Carefully* tap the mounts into place with a small hammer. Once started they get the idea, the new Poly bushings begin to deform to fit, and it finally goes in fine.

The most fun part is getting all 3 started at the same time without one of them popping out.
Your vocabulary may be expanded and augmented before you're successful.
(';')

 

Noah,
My bushings were already poly from a PO and had thin flat washers (one or two per attachment point) and they allowed me to move the rack side to side slightly to better align with the frame brackets. But even with this, it was frustrating to get it mounted again, especially for one person.

Does the problem seem to be the new bushings are laterally spaced so that they are too wide or too narrow to fit the frame mounting brackets? Or is the problem mostly because the steering linkage is still all connected together and with so many moving pieces it's hard to position the rack back where it needs to go?

As Elinor said, centering the rack at this stage is not important or helpful, however, she gave sage advise concerning the tools you will probably need.....a screw driver and a hammer. They are a staple of any good mechanic. The centering ability is used when it's time to align the front wheels, mostly the toe in/out.

Dave

 

Thank you for the responses. So far the issue has been I was just unable to line up the rack to where it needs to go so I could start pushing it up into place with the bushings between the subframe mounting bosses. It was just a little too far to one side to start the upward push. I thought I may have screwed something up - self-inflicted damage is my specialty. I do anticipate it will be a tight squeeze into the bosses even when I get the rack lined up to where it needs to be. I'll unlock the steering wheel and give it another go this weekend. I haven't loosened or done anything to the inner or outer tie rods so it sounds like it's just a matter of muscle-ing it into place and then getting the 3 bolts in - then off to the alignment shop.

 

Lubrication with grease also helps the new bushings slide into place.

 

If it is an issue of making bolt holes line up to isert fastenmers, I have a tool \A long center punch. A big phillips screw driver will do. I have a can of beat up drivers. retired from drivig screws and sentenced to life as pry bars!!

 

Again, thanks for the input everyone. To clarify, all I’ve disconnected/removed so far is the 3 bolts holding the rack to the subframe. Unfortunately, circumstances have conspired to prevent me from spending much time on this project since my first post above. My family and employer appear to be completely unsympathetic to the demands of owning an old Jaguar! I hope to attack it again in the next few days, but I did spend some time working on it and was able to get the right side of the rack (LHD car) in position and the bolt in place. But the left side was too far to the rear and it seems the upper bushing is definitely wider than the subframe mounting “ears”.

Even using as much brute force as I could muster I couldn’t get the left side in position. It seemed like the steering column/pinch bolt was preventing the rack from being pushed forward enough. I’ll get some photos next time I’m under there.

I probably need to remove the right side bolt again and try to get the rack better aligned to push it into position. In the event I run out of patience and expletives and can’t get the rack where it needs to be, would you recommend undoing the lower ball joints or the pinch bolt as an option?

While working on this I also decided to change the transmission filter and trans mount bushing, which was completely deteriorated. I purchased the replacement bush from SNG and haven’t been able to force it into the mount even using silicone spray as a lubricant. It’s not really close to going in so far. Any hints on that? I’ve read posts where people cut the bush in half horizontally, then glue the halves together in place since it’s a compression type force applied.

I’ve also included a gratuitous shot of the temperamental lady.

 

if the rack is not separated from the tie rods and from the splined steering column shaft it is not possible to get it into the brackets. The poly bushings are slightly wider and need to be forced compressed to fit. This is what eliminates the side to side play of the rack, a known issue since the 1980's.
I installed the kit from John's Cars in Dallas and had no trouble getting the brackets to line up. But I followed the kit instructions.

 

Hi, when I replaced my bushings with poly I had to remove the spacer washer tack welded to the inside of the bracket on the left side 2 bolt mount. Did you remove this bracket CAC2037, shown below with the rack ? I'm pretty sure I didn't use any spacer washers on the left side and only one thinner than stock to shim the right side after install. My notes from that rebuild are currently hiding and missed taking pictures of the modified bracket so I'm going from memory.
I removed my rack completely since I had to replace the dry rotted boots. It might be easier to reinstall the rack if you just disconnect the steering shaft pinch bolt, leaving the tie rod ends connected since each front spindle can freely move as needed.




Hope this helps !
Brian

 

I'm wondering if you have the wrong bushings. There's no reason they should be so tight for you.
I used Poly bushings on my rack, used the washers too as locating spacers, and it all went together just fine.
(';')