Let me begin by saying I have done this job before - 27 years ago. But the car has been off road for 16 years and the rear brakes are not working. Last time I removed the suspension I had an article (now lost) in a club magazine to guide me. In it were directions on exactly how high to raise the rear of the car for the suspension to clear. So I am after this measurement again. Does anybody know this? Otherwise I will have to guess - I am making stands to sit the rear of the car on as well so the right height will be real helpful.

thanks
John

 

I *Envy* your empty shop!
What I could do if I had that kind of Empty floor space!

Several members have dropped their IRS, doubtless one of them will be along with the measurements for you.

Welcome to our playpen, John.
(';')

 

I don't have the measurement but it shouldn't be that hard to figure out.

Assuming the cage will be slid out from the side.....

Measure how tall the cage is. Eyeball the lowest point on the car that the cage is likely to conflict with. That point must be higher then the cage plus a few inches more to allow for your floor jack or whatever you are using to lover the cage.

It's been a few years but as I recall the car doesn't have to be all that high if you slide the assembly out from the side. It needs to be quite a bit higher if you want to slide it out from the rear

Cheers
DD

 

But be very sure it is properly blocked in the front and under the sides.... hardest part is either cutting or freeing the exhaust pipes that goes through the IRS.

Be sure to remove the rear brake line... then replace it when done as it will be hard/soft but worn out...

I used a floor jack with a piece of plywood under the whole IRS.. it was easy to move around.

Board used is show in photo #2 foreground.

 

Mekon,
I'm always full of advice. Go buy the harbor freight motorcycle lift. Use a 20% off coupon. ~$300. In and out with no hassle. This suspension system rolls off the floor jack. Mine did. While it's out you have a work table.
I'll post a picture later, on mobile at the moment.

 

I've never done it on these critters, but I have on something similar. At least twice.
An engine and trans axle in a 63 and alter in a 65 Corvair.


Tools:


A bottle jack, a trolley jack, chunks of pipe as rollers and a plank about 4' x 12" x 2".
Oh, blocks of wood as chocks for the front wheels. And "good" or better jack stands.


Use one's creative imagination from here down and back up.


Carl

 

X2 on the motorcycle jack idea, it made the process of lowering and raising the IRS into position so much easier due to the large platform, i think i had to put a 2x4 at either the front or back so it raises almost perfectly. Another idea to help clearance might be to remove the shocks and feed a ratchet strap over the top of the IRS to pull up the hubs,

Removing the wheels will obviously help the clearance, i raised the car the way other have mentioned which is to measure the height of the cage without wheels and then add a little extra to allow for the lowering device. I placed the jack stands if not under but close to the radius arm mounting points to the body and it stayed put just fine for the week or 2 the IRS was out.

Good luck

Russell

 

Aha, looks like i left the shocks in place for the drop/lift along with the ratchet strap

 

Just so our younger members know....

Dan Dare and the Mekon

The Eagle was a wonderful comic for boys !

 

Thanks all who replied. Rfarmery's picture gives me a good guide to how high to raise the rear, and I will try the measurement method as well. Good to know I can pull it out the side, I have a better jack this time and I still have the wooden puck I made up years ago for the last removal. It fits the tie plate perfectly so the suspension stays on the jack.

 

Sure was! I have added my usual avatar. Any actual physical resemblance between myself and the Mekon is merely a co-incidence

 

I've recently pulled mine and the only comment I'll add is that you need to completely remove the Radius Arms or be very careful when lowering. My Radius Arms where hanging down and decided to dig in to my smooth concrete floor and almost force the car to roll off it's axle stands!

I guess you could probably tie them to the subframe to keep them out of the way?

 

To answer the original question......

If the rear is elevated so that the center of the rear wheel arch is 32.5" from the floor you'll have more than enough room to side the IRS out from the side


Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug, that is just how I want to do the job!

 

Raised the rear to 36" and pulled the suspension out today.
I had difficulty separating the central mufflers from the mid pipe so pulled the lot out together. Came out easily via the left hand rear quarter, then I separated the exhaust.

Brake caliper pistons seized which is why I am doing the job

 

Boy howdy, your IRS is a Lot cleaner than mine!
Of course, mine is blessed with Automatic Rust Prevention.
(';')

 

 

Normal

I've always had to pry the arm off the spigot using a long crowbar, piece of 2x4 lumber, or similar. It takes some grunting so brace yourself for for the eventual 'pop'.

Cheers
DD

 

I had to use a BIG pry bar to get them loose, after many hours soaking in penitrant.
(';')

 

Are u guyz putting it on arm, or the cup area?

I have a long crowbar with an end like a screwdriver.

Very stubborn, just seems like the rubber will seperate, then I will still have to get cup off body.

I just want a good approach before I go at it.

Everything else came apart easy, I thought I was there! Lol

Will it drop low enough to replace rotors if arms are still attached?

Thanx!