My series 1 is almost ready for the road. Suspension, brake system, top end of engine, etc., all re-built. I can drive it around my son's yard - he has an acre of grassed paddock. The main fault at present which makes me reluctant to put it on road is with the BW12 transmission. The car was last on the road in 2001, and it was Ok then. 5 years ago it moved 15 miles under its own power to the present location. Transmission takes a long time (5 seconds or so) to build up drive. Very clunky on the shift from 1st to 2nd. Oil level seems high in the pan yet I have not even put back as much oil as I drained out! I think the pump must not be charging the torque converter properly. Can this happen?
Any ideas on this fault?

here are some pictures

 

I just had my BW12 fully rebuilt recently. It was close to $3000.
So much better to drive now.

 

And that is what I am afraid of Clarke! Rather invest $6000 in a manual conversion than $3000 in gearbox overhaul. Just what were your symptoms?

 

Clarke - replying to my own thread. I chased up your post on BW12 rebuild. Seems your trans was just a bit slow warranting the rebuild. Mine is VERY slow. But I think I need to give it a run, so may buy a "permit to move" from the NSW RTA and drive the car a bit to see how things go. In the meantime I am looking for a cheap BW12 , even if it is only to take it apart and learn how these things work.

 

We used to call that Morning Sickness.
Every time this happened, disassembly revealed the soft neoprene seals to be hard (certainly not supple as they should be), requiring a bit of running time to soften them and then build up pressure. Winter was worse than summer as ambient temperature was 50F higher to begin with, giving the poor thing a head start in the morning.

This is often caused by a lack of trans fluid cooler, but also can be due to just plain wear.
The fix is new seals. While you're at it, change clutches and check band wear.
(';')

 

Sounds like me!!! slow to get going...

Yes, indeed, morning sickness, Elinor is on point.

Decades ago, the Chrysler transmission in my 79 IHC Scout II developed a bad case of it!! I dropped the pan. Messy, at best. no drain on them!!! I found it's mesh type filter jammed with a goo like stuff.

Replaced it. topped off the level. fixed....

Carl.

 

What a difference a day makes! Tuesday it was the usual very slow to drive - but eventually got going and it was clunky and harsh on the changes. Drove around the paddock for 5 minutes or so and put the car back in the garage. I did not check the transmission oil, which in the past showed a level way above the top mark. Now on pulling the transmission out I drained off around 6 litres, yet on putting it all back together only put in 4 litres before the oil level was high, which I could never work out. In fact I was getting blow back from the breather tube as if there was way too much oil. Today started up the car and it built up drive almost immediately. Drove around for a good 10 - 15 minutes including a couple of runs up to 50mph on the local street (not quite legal). Transmission felt quite good and moving from a stop was almost instant.
Put the car away. Engine nice and warm - checked transmission oil - not even registering on the dipstick. Put another litre in (all I had) and level is now at the bottom mark. I am hopeful that with a bit of a run all will be well. Something must have been gummed up and oil was not circulating as it should to give the symptoms and oil level readings.

 

Goodo.

I would drain whats in there, as warm to hot as you can without burning the pinkies, and refill with new once more.This slow introduction of fresh fluid, often sorts lots of ailments, apart from mechanical items that may be worn out.

The BW12 in my V12 takes 6 ltrs, drop and refill.

 

The difference was that I drive mine every day, and it was getting worse every week. No shortage of fluid changes either.
It just got to the point where something out of my skill level had to be done.

 

Clarke (o1xjr) and Grant thank so much for your input. I do not post a lot on the forum, but I do read a lot - including threads from some years back. You blokes are legends of the forum for helping out with advice, drawings even loaning tools. This forum is great because of members like you.

Today I applied and payed for the $25 for a permit to move an unregistered vehicle. I will drive it around 20km to my place just checking that all is ready for rego. Did the wheel alignment this afternoon. I just use a piece of string and it seems to work OK. Remaining problems to sort are the handbrake, wipers and then fit the electronic distributor.
I am almost there!

John

 

Today I purchased an insurance policy for my BW12 transmission. Supposedly originally out of a V12, but clearly mated to a Chev at some stage, I bought this for $60 off Gumtree (similar to craigs list). There was another dreamer in Queensland who wants $250 for a similar setup. I will open it up and have a look, then put it together again. I hope I will never need it.
I ask the question, are these Chev bell housings any use today? Surely anyone thinking of a Chev conversion would buy a combined engine transmission unit and upgrade the lot at once.

 

John, there seems to be a lot of dreamers in Qld who think they have someting of value. Most I have spoken to have scored the parts for free and think because they are "Jaguar" they can sell them for a premium price. The genuine Jag people sell/trade at real part value.
I have bought a lot of stuff interstate for a lot less including postage.
I have seen stuff I have given away on Gumtree up the next week for hundreds of dollars and sit there for months unsold. Pisses me off no end, I have had spare parts that I know are not high $ value and want to shift them. So I put them up for free and some tosser collects them and trys to make $$$$ out of them.
I would rather a genuine jag guy got them.

 

I had to carry out some engine work on my XJ this summer so decided to get the Model 12 box looked at by a local auto specialist. It had been very sloppy in operation and leaked badly.They replaced all the brake bands, clutches and seals, the torque converter was cut open, cleaned and rewelded and balanced. Total cost for reference was £1200 including VAT. I didn't think that was too bad as I've had thirty three years out of it with only the odd oil change.

 

That engine transmission unit looks really neat Nigel. That price seems good for all the transmission work. I am surprised they could not just source a new torque converter - have these also become an rare spare?

I drove my car 15 miles today to move it into my garage at home. Once warm it ran very nicely - up to 80mph on the highway. No leaks from cooling system, transmission, perhaps a small weep around the oil filter. Fixing the handbrake and bonnet latches is next on the agenda.

 

Thanks, a lot of time and effort went into that lot! To be honest I'm not sure of the rarity of the converter as the specialist worked on it as a matter of course - all in with the price. I have seen a few of them for sale NOS for around £250, so probably more than a rebuild. I've nearly got mine back on the road but having problems with water in the fuel, usual problem of water getting past the tank lid seal when the drain tube in the filler neck gets blocked with leaves. I'm glad to hear you've got some miles under your belt with your car.

 

You were not kidding when you said you had one of the cleanest series 1 around!!