Hi Gang,

So, I have to get my 1975 XJC Coupe V12 (yes, "coupe" super rare & super cool) transported home via an auto transport service.

When I bought the car last year from a yard in South Carolina (where it was left to rot sitting outside under a tree for many years) the tow guy dragged it out with chains and then loaded it up onto his flatbed truck.

I wasn't there but my buddy told me that all 4 wheels rolled freely.

The local tow guy brought it to my buddy's property there in SC where he put new tires on it for me and properly covered it up.

The front windshield is mostly gone because it got busted a long time ago, which means the dash & center console have been soaked over the years with rain.

I promise I'm going somewhere with this.

I recently traveled down to SC to finally see the car in person and I'm very happy with what I bought.

She's definitely rough, but can easily be brought back and the worst of the rust (that I can see) is the drivers side floor board which is completely gone, and around the outer perimeter edges of the trunk.

All of the outer skin panels, lower rocker panels, and engine bay are all still very solid.

My buddy checked the steering wheel today to make sure it's not locked and he told me that it does turn side to side freely without locking up.

He said that the shift lever can only move between 1st & 2nd, and that it won't go into drive, neutral, reverse, or park.

Here's the question, how could the wheels roll freely if she's "truly" stuck between 1st & 2nd, and is there a way to release/undo the shift cable from the topside of the car without having to crawl underneath it so that I can guarantee it's in neutral for when the transport guys show up?

Why am I asking all these questions.....

Because I have a transport company scheduled to bring the car up here to Connecticut from South Carolina and I don't want to get the nightmare phone call from the driver that he can't steer or load the car because the steering wheel is locked and the shift lever won't go into neutral.

Yes, I've had those types of phone calls in the past and they suck.

No, I didn't get any keys when I bought the car. I plan on doing a total restoration so that will be sorted later on down the road.

Sorry for the long message but I like to give lots of details and background information when I pose a question as it helps the reader to better understand the situation.

All replies are welcome, thanks in advance gang..

 

If the engine isn't running no hydraulic pressure will develop in the transmission. Thus, none of the clutches and bands are operative for the transmission to engage. Thus the car will roll. No worries.

Cheers
DD

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you.....

 

Curious as to how the steering wheel will turn the wheels without a key to "unlock" the anti-theft ignition plunger. The steering should be "locked" from turning without the key. What am I missing?

 

This car sat outside uncovered in the back of a wrecking yard for years and there's no telling how long the locking mechanism your speaking of has been broken.

I'm absolutely sure that the locking tab that prevents the steering wheel from turning was snapped, or broken off, or tampered with years ago.

None of that bother me as the entire car is coming apart and 99.9% of the interior will be replaced with either new, or good, used parts including a new steering column with all new ignition gear.

I'm just thankful that it is broken so that the car will steer, if the steering wheel were locked, or if the rear wheels can't turn, the auto transport guys won't take it.

 

I have for sale a Series 2 shifter assembly complete with cable and other components like the wiring.

 

Thanks, I'm actually not ready to dive into her just yet as I've got other projects ahead of her, but I'll definitely circle back around with you later on when I'm ready to start sourcing parts.

If you still have it by then, great, if you've sold it, I can't be upset, thanks for the reply.......