Strategic brake bleed possible?
#1
Strategic brake bleed possible?
Doing front overhaul of 86 brakes including calipets and soft lines. I dread the thought of 4 wheel bleed so wondering if it is possible to "quickly" unscrew inboard soft line fitting and put a rubber plug on hard line end.
Then install new calipers and soft line and "quickly" connect soft line to hard line. I know at this point air in soft line/caliper but do ypu think then I might be able to just do front bleed on each wheel?
Crazy? Or maybe doable??
Thanks. Randy
Then install new calipers and soft line and "quickly" connect soft line to hard line. I know at this point air in soft line/caliper but do ypu think then I might be able to just do front bleed on each wheel?
Crazy? Or maybe doable??
Thanks. Randy
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Greg in France (03-04-2022)
#3
Bleed farthest line first at the caliper bleeders.
RR, LR, RF, LF. ( left hand drive).
Prior to each bleed have assistant pump the brake pedal three times SLOWLY and hold.
For tough to bleed situations, ie new lines, open and close bleeders quickly multiple times. This helps trapped are to move to the bleeder.
You can also be your own assistant using a length of wood between the seat and pedal to hold the petal after the three SLOW pumps.
RR, LR, RF, LF. ( left hand drive).
Prior to each bleed have assistant pump the brake pedal three times SLOWLY and hold.
For tough to bleed situations, ie new lines, open and close bleeders quickly multiple times. This helps trapped are to move to the bleeder.
You can also be your own assistant using a length of wood between the seat and pedal to hold the petal after the three SLOW pumps.
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retroren (03-05-2022)
#4
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LnrB (03-05-2022)
#5
And... take it from someone who's been there - you MUST bleed the brakes every couple of years because the fluid goes bad and gets sticky. And there are moving pistons in that entire system that don't like sticky. Especially in the "balance valve". You will be doing the right thing for the car and your life when you bleed the brakes.
Bill
Bill
#6
#7
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retroren (03-05-2022),
yachtmanbuttson (03-04-2022)
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#8
This is something you don't want to hear. But since you are going to have the brake lines open it is an ideal time to flush out the Master Cylinder and all the lines. All cars recommend this as preventative maintenance but hardly any one ever does it. Look in your Master Cylinder, is the fluid black? It should look like Apple juice. There is an excellent DIY video on YouTube by “Chris Fix” on how to flush and bleed your brakes without an assistant. Last summer I did both of my Jaguars, it takes about $20 worth of brake fluid per car and I spread it out over several days but if your lucky it will be the last time you ever have to do it.
#9
Doing front overhaul of 86 brakes including calipets and soft lines. I dread the thought of 4 wheel bleed so wondering if it is possible to "quickly" unscrew inboard soft line fitting and put a rubber plug on hard line end.
Then install new calipers and soft line and "quickly" connect soft line to hard line. I know at this point air in soft line/caliper but do ypu think then I might be able to just do front bleed on each wheel?
Crazy? Or maybe doable??
Thanks. Randy
Then install new calipers and soft line and "quickly" connect soft line to hard line. I know at this point air in soft line/caliper but do ypu think then I might be able to just do front bleed on each wheel?
Crazy? Or maybe doable??
Thanks. Randy
If you have shop air the vacuum bleeder in the 2nd pict is the way to go. I use this one now and it's great but requires shop air. Both techniques will work but the vacuum bleeder is way faster and almost eliminated the MC over extension seal problem.
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retroren (03-05-2022)
#10
#11
Aversion is based on difficulty of accessing rear bleed screws....in my work environment. I suspect the people amazed at my post have garages with lifts and all the good toys needed to work on cars😊
I don't..so as I said will swap out parts and take to my local old Jag place for proper flush n fill
Randy
I don't..so as I said will swap out parts and take to my local old Jag place for proper flush n fill
Randy
#12
#14
Aversion is based on difficulty of accessing rear bleed screws....in my work environment. I suspect the people amazed at my post have garages with lifts and all the good toys needed to work on cars😊
I don't..so as I said will swap out parts and take to my local old Jag place for proper flush n fill
Randy
I don't..so as I said will swap out parts and take to my local old Jag place for proper flush n fill
Randy
BTW, I dont have a lift or a garage with a high ceiling, or even enough room to remove and engine inside. I just get creative.
No room for a engine hoist, out the bottom then.
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yachtmanbuttson (03-07-2022)
#15
You dont need to bleed the rears if you're replacing the fronts. Just prefill the front calipers and bleed them only. The hardest part about changing the front calipers is removing the caliper bolts. Wack with a hammer to great microcracks then treat them with PB blaster a day ahead. If you want you car to stop and feel better get EBC red pads. The part number is DP3262C
#16
easier than it sounds. to remove: 1 top bolt and nut.....same for the bottom....pretty good bolt/nut access too...someone will have to do this to properly bleed the system so it might as well be you.....i've read your posts and you are very capable..... unless your rear shocks/spring are new, take the money you will save and apply it to new set of gaz adjustable shocks and springs....i really noticed the difference.
#17
#18
Followup finally
Got brake rotors, calupers and pads replaced along with new soft lines...all on front
Used Mityvac bleeder and seemed to work OK although the fittings for bleed nipples are crappy and loose.
So maiden voyage she stopped just fine but when I stopped and did a quick inspection I was shocked to see brake fluid seeping out from resevoir cover. Cover was on snug soooo...after another look it looks a bit overfull.
I will drain some out but wondering two things. Is the fluid in resevoir under any pressure that would cause it to leak out of cap and...does it heat up enough to expand in resevoir and cause leak?
Thanks
Got brake rotors, calupers and pads replaced along with new soft lines...all on front
Used Mityvac bleeder and seemed to work OK although the fittings for bleed nipples are crappy and loose.
So maiden voyage she stopped just fine but when I stopped and did a quick inspection I was shocked to see brake fluid seeping out from resevoir cover. Cover was on snug soooo...after another look it looks a bit overfull.
I will drain some out but wondering two things. Is the fluid in resevoir under any pressure that would cause it to leak out of cap and...does it heat up enough to expand in resevoir and cause leak?
Thanks
#20
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