Well, its all but done, few small projects i want to complete, i have the ac lines made up ready to install, and have purchased a cruise module from a 95 Camaro, just need to figure out the wiring and actually go hook it all up.. i do have the jag wiring book also the factory service manual for the 94 firebird that donated its heart to the jag, so it shouldn't be a big deal...

The engine itself is dimensionally the same as a regular small block chevy, so nothing new there to deal with that a hundred lumpers dont already know.
i went with the suncoast kit as he is pretty local, so parts were at my doorstep normally within two days.... if you pay attention to his parts list you can get everything you need for the install itself, , however you will still need to have someone( unless you are set up to weld) drill and install o2 bungs in the down pipes, and i would wait until engine is sitting in place as you dont need the sensor being blocked by steering rack or oil filter etc...
Wiring was actually very simple once i figured out that not all hot wires are hot whilst cranking! There really aren't that many wires that have to connect to jag harnesses, i cannot remember right off hand but its only like 8, i got all the wiring and pinout info from lt1swap.com and shbox.com.

The Engine itself is where i would do it differently if i were to do it again, i am pretty sure i could have left well enough alone and been just fine, read too many posts on impala forums about the aluminum heads not being the best for the heavier car, and the iron ones were superior,, while i am sure the iron ones may be a better setup, there is nothing wrong with the aluminum ones and they will work just fine!
However duento all my reading and onset paranoia... i decided that i need a bigger cam to overcome the aluminum head shortcomings. Being as heads were at machine shop anyway, i had them install lt4 valve springs to allow for the greater lift from the lt4 hotcam and the 1.6 roller rockers, i installed thencam 2 degress advanced because once again reading forums, cam not good for heavier car,, now here is where i could have saved myself some time and money, i wasnt looking far enough into the build, when i found and spoke with a tuner for the pcm, he told me if i wasnt planning on racing my car, the engine was absolutely fine stock! He could adjust the tune for more power down low, etc, however as i had already done the work, he went ahead and tuned for the hot cam,, for the advance, the tire size, etc, and car runs fantastic! But...... yes theres a but!!! Theres always a but... car is a little too powerful really.. car accelerates quite briskly from a stop, and as other v8 folk have said, it really wakes up the car! Even with the 2.88 rear end i can break traction quite easily, the few heavy throttle acceleration tests i have performed are quite alarming, even with the 2.88 rear end, you get planted in the seat, i cannot wait until motor is thoroughly broken in so i can at least open.her up a few times, before i turn back into my grandmother ( wife says i drive like a little old lady most of the time)
All in all, despite my back and forth over the years ( been since 2006) on whether or not to lump it, i can honestly say i am glad i did and am very pleased with the result!!
so... if any one has any questions about this or are doing same thing, you have about 3 months to ask me, after that there absolutely no telling what I will remember and what i will make up in my head... lol


Everyone stay safe!!!

Darren

 

Darren, glad to hear you're at the finish line and happy with the results-I hope I can say the same when I get to that point.

You say you used the LT4 Hot cam and had the PCM tuned for it. Did you change the LT1 knock module to the LT4 knock module? Did you use roller rockers on your rebuild?

There are many other issues coming up that I am preparing to research, I might tap you again, if you don't mind.

Dave

 

I did use roller rockers, used the scorpion 1.6 self aligning, i was searching for the lt4 knock module for a while but they are few and far between, luckily its an issue the tune takes care of as well..
i was originally going to try to tune it myself, but there are so many tables that have to be adjusted, i ended up sending the whole pcm to Moe Bailey of Moe horsepower, for the tune! If the tuner knows what they are doing you wont need the lt4 knock module.
I also had moe turn off the vats, adjust shift points delete egr and smog stuff, set speedo output to match wheel tire and rear end size. He cannot howvwr asjust the ppm output from pcm to actual speedo, for that you will need the dakota digital sgi 5e, or something that does same thing.
my original plan was to get a mail order tune from pcmforless, but read too many stories about bad tunes, i found.Moe through z28.com.i can semd.you his info if you want it.

 

Thanks Darren, I'm going to use roller rockers also. I have a NIB LT4 knock module and I'm hoping it prevents some timing retard with the extra rocker/exhaust noise-just like GM designed for those issues in the '96 Corvette. Probably an expensive extra that is not necessary.

I have a couple of tuners that I've looked at, but I am still doing research, so yes I would be interested in looking at the tuner you used. Having the PCM tuned for tire size would be a big plus and I have one of Jaguar Specialties speedo interfaces that came with the car (no instructions) so I plan to figure it out and use it. I will definitely delete the A.I.R., might keep everything else, haven't decided yet.

Thanks again for your help and I hope you get a lot of miles and enjoyment out of your Lump.

Dave

 

Dave:

I have one of the Jaguar specialtie speedometer interfaces. And who knows where, now, just how to install it. it goes sfrom the PCM to the speedo. but, at what pin I lost in my stuff.

Andrew at jaguar specialties is a nce guy. he will clarify for you, I am sure.

My engine is a used Cadillac right out of the big car. Iron heads. I was touchy as to alloy on steel. The DOHC blew !!!

Compared to the alloy head LT1's less HP. More torque at a lower rpm rather than the material of the heads it is the cam and tune that in the opnion of some make the iron head LT1 better for the heavy Jaguar. But, many corvette and Camaro LT1'a are in jaguars and the owners are pleased.

Present example Daren.

Way to go Daren!!

I used the Sun coast down pipes. I drilled them and welded in the bungs. I guessed as to where. Not that good a guess. Access good. alas harness too short!!!! But I found a source for extensions! Seems that is a popular need? The source told me, "we make them all the time". Not expensive, well done, connectors and color codes right.

My car may not have the power that Darenn's does, but plenty enoght to get going fast and cruise so nicely at low rpm. Yet respond tothrottlejsut fine w/o need to shiftdown..

A great engine to car match.
Carl

 

From what I've researched, the iron heads are the way to go. My LT1 is out of a '95 Caprice police car and has the iron heads. The cam I chose has a little more lift, the same intake duration and 10* less exhaust duration than the LT4 Hot Cam. The lobe separation is 1* more. It should be a little better than the LT1 and a little milder than the LT4, I guess I'll find out.

Dave

 

Iron heads are fine. It's just a weight thing. I've seen dyno tests of Alu Vs Iron heads. The Alu has a very small advantage... less than 5 hp if the heads are identical as they were in the test i saw. That advantage may be even less on the LT1 becasue of the reverse flow cooling. GM used Iron heads in their B body's and other lux cars becasue they are quiet and the extra 60 Lbs was un-important in the 4200 Lbs cars they were used in. An LT1 with it's very mild stock cam and iron heads ticks over quiet as a watch and consistent with the requirements for the cars they were installed in. They are also perfect for classic jag where refinement is appreciated. They Iron heads flow so they still make great power at modest RPM's. The Alu headed LT1's have more cam timing and more ignition timing and were installed in-front of manual transmissions in some cases. So they can rev higher make more power upping the fun factor in the sport cars they were found in where weight was important and acoustics less important.